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About 7288cdn

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/07/1951

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  • Location
    W.central Saskatchewan Canada
  • Interests
    anything IH, board games.

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  1. My 1936 parts book says a Fuller and Johnston engine was used for models 20 and 21 combines. 423D on a block shows up as a "Ball Bearing engine, 3&3/4x5 Vertical 4 cylinder used on combine models 3,4,6,7 and 9. With a D number I would think that is an IH built engine unless you can find Waukesha on it someplace.
  2. That second version really rocks.
  3. As far as I will take it for now. The correct grill and lettering. The top cover for the dash. When my parts tractor arrived it had a piece I didn't realize I was missing. It is the clip that bolts to the bottom of the platform to hold the early style pto shield to the tractor.
  4. You have not gotten much response to your question. I checked today and the steering box casting number is the same on the 560 or 660 International tractors, maybe you have some of them around there. I have a 400 I am parting out but you should take yours apart to see what you need because I don't think you want to pay freight from Sk Canada for the whole steering box.
  5. Backing a horse outfit is way easier than backing a truck. Notice how when he got a kink in it he could swing his front axle (team) over to the other side to straighten it out. You can't do that with a truck.
  6. Well done. I am so glad you went with paint instead of patina. I wondered if you were going to try to solve the cooling issue by mounting that extra radiator laying in from of the duals up beside the batteries, but anyone that would choose paint over patina wouldn't do something like that. Sent you a pm as well.
  7. My truck is a 98. My gauge and engine monitor signal no oil pressure once the engine is warmed up and the truck starts to move. I have tested with another gauge and the oil pressure is in fact within specs. I have replaced the sender and gauge and cleaned all the plug ins between the ECM and the dash. Since all the cleaning now only the dash monitor (light and buzzer) signal low oil pressure, the gauge reads ok. It must be a wiring issue someplace. I am hoping that someone else has run into this problem and can steer me to the likely location. I am not sure but since the ECM does not shut the engine down that the problem must be between the ECM and the dash. Does anyone know where the split between the gauge and the buzzer takes place? Which bulkhead connector on the firewall carries the gauge circuits?
  8. what size are they?
  9. This is as far as I am going to take it at this time. Weird colour is from my yard light. I even put the batty lids on.
  10. I had to take a lot of tail lights apart to get parts to build one. They bolt to the fender in the perfect place to become a handle for a clumsy farmer to climb on so many get distorted. The seat pic is for the old guys on here. I think the 50 series was the last to carry a factory trip rope clip.
  11. Good idea, maybe even the vice. I will try that.
  12. There is a guy in the States that sells the spiral exhaust mufflers, you can probably find his ads in performance car mags. Being a farm guy I realized those could be auger flighting and built a pair for my hot rod. I first put them on behind my store bought ones that sounded good but had a drone at highway speed. That took out the drone and really muffled the exhaust, to the point one of my friends told his girlfriend that I had a electric hot rod because you could't hear it run. I took out the commercial ones and am just running the spirals now which are 2&1/2 auger flight inside the same size pipe. I have not been "tested" but I am a lot quieter than those triple D trucks (Dodge duelly diesel) running around. I have no idea about efficiency compared to engineered stuff. I have one problem which is I welded the spiral in at both ends but of course can not reach in very far and the centres rattle a bit. Mine are just the flighting with no central pipe like would be on a grain auger. The pipe would make them more stable and perhaps would take away the rattle but would introduce more restriction.
  13. just wondering where you got that part. I could use one on another project for about the same reason as mentioned above although I am working on a Rockol 98. I have had the hood off of a lot of International 560s (not Farmalls) and have never seen this before.
  14. rustred , sorry about the mixup, the 660. is still here, you should tell me which one it is so I can keep all the parts on it. The 600 is pretty well done until my correct sheet metal gets here in the spring. I always like the look of them with the extended muffler and intake. I don't like 23 degree lugs on old tractors but these will do for now. Second pic shows original IH hydraulic coupler complete with IH stamped in the screw on caps. Drawbar hole has been filled, the hole at the front required a fill of 5/8 of an inch. Also replaced the roller assembly, they did not last well and the tractors are usually found with just a hammer strap now. Once the front hole wore down so far the pull came onto the rear roller bracket and wore it out as well.
  15. That grill the fuel tank and the hood all came off of that SWD9 that you bought the rear wheels and tires off of. Some one tried to make it a 650 but got the colour wrong ( white not IH 935) and in the wrong location. He had painted below the parting line on the fuel tank white. I sanded down to the remaining red and it looks ok at 60 50, 60 mph or 50 feet. I was going to do the grill as well but as I said I have nicer sheet metal lined up for spring. I also forgot the IH symbol had to go on before the grill was mounted but again I don't want to drill the holes in a pretty good 9 hood for 3 months use. Doug bought a front wheel from me this winter for his new threat this spring. I won't say more in case it is to be surprise to you all.
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