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Everything posted by DirtBoyz07

  1. Yes the new one treads into the top cover of the pump and then your return line fitting threads into the return fitting . That return fitting has to be in the pump because it holds pump housing psi and this makes the advance in the pump work . One more sign if the flex ring is going bad is when you go to full throttle it will search for high idle and when you come down to isle it will almost die and then will come to idle speed . ‘Danny
  2. The return fitting in the tank just get rid of it and just put the newer one on the top cover . One more thing if you have a rubber hose from the filters to the inlet of the pump I have seen them swell up from the bad fuel we have today and won’t let the fuel get to the pump . You can also take the hose off the back of the pump and thread the screen/ psi regulator assemble out of the back of the pump and see if the screen is all plugged with varnish . It takes a 3/4” wrench and don’t go crazy tightening it back in , you don’t want to break the top off that psi regulator ? $$$ Danny
  3. Those are some good tractors , always liked the 312 motor . We had a customer back in the old days that I would set his 666 up for pulling , it had a M&W turbo kit and I would put that heavier spring in the injection pump and on the dyno it would slip the PTO at 225 hp ?? Danny
  4. The return check is more than likely in the bottom of the tank where the return line goes , they did that that way on those earlier tractors . If you have an air compressor and a rubber tip blow gun just remove the fuel cap and blow through the return line from the pump back to the tank . You can run the engine with the line off at the pump and just let the return fuel run into a pail . You can also pull the top cover off the pump , just make sure you have it all clean before taking it off . Remove the timing cover off the side of the pump and this will drain the fuel down inside the pump and then when the top cover is off you can look in the top of the pump . If it’s nice and clean and there is no ground up looking stuff that looks like coffee grounds the pump is probably ok , if you see debris in there the pump will need to come off . ‘When I rebuild these pumps I put the newer style return fitting in the top cover of the pump and remove the one in the bottom of the fuel tank . Danny
  5. Pull the MCV and and give the MCV pump a quick test . Put parts solvent or diesel fuel in the pump on the suction side , turn it over by hand and hold your thumb over the small port , if you can’t hold your thumb on the psi port the pump is good , if you hold your thumb on there the pump is bad . Just had a friend of mine with a 1086 with a new TA a year ago and a new MCV pump , the pump was ok when the oil was cold but just after a few min the lube would drop and if he he turned the steering g to the stop the steering would lock up . He capped off the brake valve , diff lock and finally figured out the pump was week . ‘Danny
  6. My Prototype I put together has the RD pump like the one in the picture above . Danny
  7. X3 on the return check valve could be plugged from out rotten fuel and or the flex ring is bad inside the pump and you will need to pull the pump and have it redone . ‘Danny
  8. The P 7100 Bosch and the Magnum pumps are the ones I have torqued that high ? I have had two 5.9mCummins come loose and slip timing , that sucks when your a mile from home and the wife has to come pull you home ?
  9. I have a smaller one that was my wife’s great grandpas , my in-laws gave it to me when they retired from farming , I use it a lot . There is one on an auction that is the bigger one like the one you have so I might have to try and buy it ? Danny
  10. I’m with Ed , it looks like it might be time to pull it off and have it gone through , if those orings are leaking there old and hard and it also time to put seals in the pump drive at the same time so you don’t get diesel fuel in the crank case . These motors are getting harder to find and I just learned a week ago that there not making 4 roller heads anymore so you want to take good care of your pump . Danny
  11. Those come out at an angle off the head of the pump right ? If you can find a set the fuel injection shops can make new ones , BK Diesel in Dubuque IA , 563-583-9600 as for Mike . Danny
  12. That’s a good looker to Matt ?? Danny
  13. I’m not trying to say anyone is wrong but I have been tightening them to 175 ft lbs , make sure you remove the lock out of the side of the pump and the lock pin in the pump gear , there made out of plastic for a reason . You can put a big pry bar in the flywheel hole below the starter . I have had them come loose when I have torqued them to spec and I check with my guys at the fuel shop an they service diesels in there shop and he was the one that told me to go up to 175 ft lbs . ‘Danny
  14. Very cool Marty , looks like a great show , I’m liking all semi’s and heavy equipment ?? Danny
  15. I’m liking all of them , I had two of them, one of mine is out at some good friends of ours in Indiana ( Old Ivan ) and the other one was the one I built for tractor pulling .the one with the cab was all original other than the stripe he had painted on the door ? it has set out two night since it was new , she is a cream puff and went to a great home ?? Danny
  16. The new motor is waiting to get installed , the weather is way ahead of schedule for spring so I’m just finishing up my Caterpillar with service work and parts repair . Nor sure if I will get it in until after spring dirt work . Not to worry I will get it going and it will be out on the jobs by fall . Here are pictures of the hard bar bearing replacement ? I replaced all the bearings in all the angle cylinders, tilt cylinder , both ends of the hard bar , all the fluids and filters in the entire machine . Danny
  17. J Mech , you just don’t get it do you , another simple question and you always have to turn everything into your the only guy that knows how to fix IH tractors ? after a few days ago with you calling people out about how smart you are it very clear who you really !! Ever cross your mind that there are some people on here trying to help people with out your smart a$$ response !! Hey , maybe you can hook a hose on where you remove that plug and run it in a pail ? ‘Danny
  18. Well dang ? sorry to see this Matt Danny
  19. Our Ag Parts rep said to check your psi before replacing the TA and see if your psi is good , if so leave the old springs in there and just do the gaskets and polish all the spools and valves . ‘Danny
  20. Yes the psi is to high , 275 to 300 for the new TA is good . Check your regulated psi valve when you pull the cap where the springs are and make sure no one has put shim washers inside the spool .I’m thinking you should pull the MCV back off and remove the hyd pump and put it in the parts washer or fill the pump with diesel fuel in the big port /suction side , put your thumb over the small port and turn the pump over by hand , if it blows your thumb off the psi port the pump is good , if it won’t the pump is bad . This is a very simple test and was shown this by the guys when I worked at IH . And just so you know you don’t pull the the steering relief to get the air out to make it pump oil . There is a plug just below the oil psi sending unit that takes a 5/8 wrench, remove that , start it up and soon as the oil comes out shut it down and install the plug , this is how you get the air out so it will operate . Send me a pm if you can’t figure it out . ‘Danny
  21. We have rode two times in Grand Junction Colorado and Green Valley Utah, big fun there . We also stopped and rode in Breckinridge CO up in the high elevations ?? Some of our friends have gone out to Deadwood SD that is a beautiful place also , I have rode snowmobile out there a few times and you won’t be disappointed. Danny
  22. That’s great , those two will be best buds for sure ? Danny
  23. The pump was the problem , TA pressure where fine and when he would turn the wheel to the end stop lube psi would go to zero and steering would lock up . If he shut the tractor off and restart it the steering would work until he would turn to stop . The oil was cold and when it got warmer it would happen faster , replaced the hyd pump and it fixed the problem . Make sure you take the pump off the valve and test it like I was telling you in the other post . How is the hyd oil and filter and do you have Hy Tran in there ? If you are running the farm store oil or off brand oil drain it and put Case IH Hy Tran in it . The reason for this is the aftermarket oils can be to heavy weight oil and won’t pull it through the filter and will damage the hyd pump . I would tell you to put the 1586 regulated piston springs , this will bump the TA psi from 250 up to 300 psi . You will want to pull the valve one more time to change the spring and check the pump . While it’s off and you want it to steer a lot easier remove the steering relief and turn the psi up on this too . The steering relief is in the bottom right hand corner , after it’s out clamp it in the vise with a rag around the valve so you don’t damage it . Then use a good screwdriver and turn the flat blade screw in until you can see two treads inside the valve , then reset the side of the valve with a center punch where the old punch mark is , this will keep the screw from backing out . Make sure you install a new oring from Case IH on the valve before installing in the valve . Danny
  24. Just so your clear J Mech , I sent him a very detailed message on messenger on how to fix it so he didn’t have to get run over by the bus . Not sure why it’s so hard to just answer the question if you actually know instead of putting everyone down and your the smartest guy on here . You wonder why a lot of people have left this forum and or won’t comment anymore is because of you and your smart a$$ response to everything on here!! ‘Danny
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