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in Coffee Shop
Posted 12 hours ago
Very nice 😊
Wow , very nice Chris 👍😎
in General IH
I’m running a S2E on a 466 and you won’t have any trouble . You might want to get 5hole .020 tips , .093 lines and make sure you don’t lock the advance for a 3000 rpm class . With the advance locked for that rpm it has no lug , with advance it corrects 14 degrees and that is a big deal , set your timing at 25 degrees . Call Atlas Tractor up in the twin cities for a double disk steel flywheel /clutch setup . The stock clutch will not work with that power , we don’t want anyone getting hurt .
send me a pm if you want , we do a lot of this stuff for our own tractors and customers
Posted yesterday at 11:41 AM
Like Snoshoe is telling you , it’s on the back side of the main pump housing , there might be a small cover over the 12 point headed bolt , this is you fuel adjustment. I would recommend having it on the dyno to set the power . If your stock no turbo don’t go crazy on the fuel , it’s not going to make a lot more power but will make a lot of black smoke , it raises the cylinder temp and can cause the risk of scoring a cylinder . If your turboed you can get as much as 250 hp full fueled , for running in the field I would keep it around 150 hp . Keep the radiator clean and make sure your running straight 30 w diesel oil .
Posted July 16
You can try BK Diesel in Dubuque IA , 563-583-9600 talk to Mike .
Posted July 14
It depends what your outside temp is , should run between 20 and 30 on the low side and 150 to 250psi on the high side . If you have a reclaimer I think it holds 4.5 lbs or if your just running it in , run the Freon in until the low side pipe stays cold and stop , check your temp in the cab and you should be good . Make sure to check the cab filter , a lot of guys forget to do that . Wash the radiator out and remove the front grill and tip the hyd cooler and the ac condenser power wash it out good , don’t used a rotors nozzle , just a flat fan type tip .
Posted July 13
Another sad day 😕
That dash is out of the 94 series tractor , I dont have the original dash , there is only a couple thing that are not correct on my tractor
Posted July 10
Head has been gone through and has seats cut in to it and new guides and valves in it 👍
Posted July 9
That is a very nice restoration 👍 and yes having a RD pump is the first 282 I have ever seen with one 😎
Posted July 7
It can be welded , it was from new when it was built but if you can get a used one there are plenty of used ones out there . Like the other guys are telling you just jack it up at the bell housing and the block of wood on the front axel to the bolster and unbolt it 👍
Posted July 6
That is the way you do it right there 👍😎 BeautifulJob
Posted June 29
I was just told a couple weeks ago that the Max Force kits are better than the reliance kits but you need to throw there rings away and put rings on there pistons from Federal Mogul and then it won’t use oil . Reliance gaskets are junk , if you can get OEM stuff don’t use it or you will be doing it again for free . Don’t work neither one of these aftermarket engine kit suppliers will stand behind any of there stuff they sell you , the first words out of there mouth is ( You assemble it wrong )
Oh Boy Tony , I bet you can talk balers with that guy ?? The next two days are going to get busy with stuff rolling in ?
Looks great ? your little girl looks very excited too ??
Posted June 19
So let me try and explained this some more , the oil leaves the block that the oil flows into on the inside of the hyd valve stack to the number 1 remote/your priority valve , this means it has priority over number 2,3,4 remotes. Number one remote is the one you run your orbital motor application on , if you run a function on any of the remotes further down the line such as number 2, 3or 4 , number 1 remote will maintain its flow and the rest of the remotes will slow down but will still function if the demand is a lot of flow one number 1 remote . This is how the pressure flow compensated system works . If you pull the lever to raise your implement the pump strokes for the oil flow and pressure to complete the job and then it de strokes back to minimum flow until the next task .
‘Let me get my service manual out and I will take some pictures out of it and post them over the weekend .
Posted June 18
The priority valve is not the one furthest from the seat , don’t try and confuse this guy asking the question . It is number one remote closest to the seat so don’t try running this orbital motor off that not that it won’t run it because it can but when you run 1, 2, 3 remotes the motor will slow or stop and that don’t go good when your trying to spray or anything that requires a constant flow of oil .
Number one remote is the priority valve , same as a Magnum , number one remote valve is a different valve over 2,3,4 , you can look it up in the parts look up if you want to . That slide pin in the cab that goes through the remote levers was to lock the valves for road transport so you couldn’t bump a lever , if you set your detents with a flow rater and you need to do this , to kick out at the spec it will run your orbital motor just fine with out trying to lock it in the run position with that lock out pin . If the Detents are not set correct and the number 1 remote locks out it shut down number 2,3,4 until you put the lever into float on number 1/priority then the oil will flow again on the rest of the remotes .Not sure how you would operate your other remotes if you have that pin through the remote levers . If you put it in #4 and you have other functions to do with 3,2 or one number four remote gets starved for oil and the pump with slow down . The 3 point has main priority so you can lift your implement so the remotes will slow for the time the hitch is going up and then the remotes will go back to full flow . This pfc hyd system works very well and it the same setup at a 71,72,8900 series Magnum .Looking at you valve on the sprayer you will want to hook the line direct into the valve with out that bypass line . , just make sure you push the lever into float every time you shut the pump down don’t put the lever in neutral or it will blow the seal on your pump motor . Hope this help and is not to detailed ? I worked at IH when these were new along with the Magnums and have been to service school on these so I learned a lot on these systems .
If you guys need any of the information on this system I have the service books and the service school manuals for the hyd system on the 50 series and the Magnums
I have a couple RD sitting here for parts pumps if you need the transfer pump . I have one on my 1206 prototype and I think it runs around 90 psi at full throttle. If you want I can look in my service manual today if you need some specs . Just send me a pm if you need some help .
The orbital motor needs to be plugged into the number one remote , that is the closest lever to the seat . Number one has priority over 2,3,4 and yes you -lug your return side into the single return coupler . The flow control is down by your right foot to speed up and slow down your pump . Just hook the hoses up to the pump for oil in and the return side back to the tractor return and it should work fine
Posted June 17
Yes Mark , I think if you get the regulator from a Bosh dealer if you can find one close to you or Oder it . They are way better quality than the ones you get from the rebuild shops .
Posted June 15
Kathy and I are very sorry to hear about your mom Billy , our sympathy to you and your entire family ❤️
Danny and Kathy
Posted June 13
We are coming down , just not sure what tractors I’m bringing yet , I can only bring two on my detach , the 53’ step deck is rented out for the summer . I’m thinking the 5388 and my narrow front 1086 ?
Stop at your local shop that rebuilds alternators and pickup a brush /regular assemble , it’s a 5 min job to change it out . Just on the back side of the alternator remove the plastic cover and two screws and the assembly pulls out , slip the new one in and and your good to go . Those Bosch alternators are really good units and this is about all that ever happens to them .
Make sure you run 30 w IH diesel oil this is important on these old motors . On you oil filter base there is an oil by pass valve on the back side of the oil filter base , remove the plug and pull the spring and valve out , polish the valve and the bore in the base alittle , shim the spring up and put it back in , your pressure will go up on the gage .You might want to drop the oil pan and roll a set of new bearings in the motor , they are small bearings and are more than likely down to the copper .