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DirtBoyz07

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DirtBoyz07 last won the day on March 1

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About DirtBoyz07

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/25/1962

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    Male
  • Location
    SE Minnesota
  • Interests
    5388 (replica prototype) from 1984 sn#0001, 1976 1086 (first built),1976 ( 886) sn#8602 , second one built , 1963 Prototype 1206 sn# 508 ,2# TX-148/5488's prototype load cell tractors sn#505 and believe #501 ,our dads B Farmall , Pro Farm Super WD 9 pulling tractor , 1984 1420 Combine 1981 782 Cub Cadet, DX24 Case International Compact Tractor, Case IH 9150 Steiger , ( our dads 1954 Caterpillar D 6 and 1957 Caterpillar D 6 ? )

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  1. So let me try and explained this some more , the oil leaves the block that the oil flows into on the inside of the hyd valve stack to the number 1 remote/your priority valve , this means it has priority over number 2,3,4 remotes. Number one remote is the one you run your orbital motor application on , if you run a function on any of the remotes further down the line such as number 2, 3or 4 , number 1 remote will maintain its flow and the rest of the remotes will slow down but will still function if the demand is a lot of flow one number 1 remote . This is how the pressure flow compensated syst
  2. The priority valve is not the one furthest from the seat , don’t try and confuse this guy asking the question . It is number one remote closest to the seat so don’t try running this orbital motor off that not that it won’t run it because it can but when you run 1, 2, 3 remotes the motor will slow or stop and that don’t go good when your trying to spray or anything that requires a constant flow of oil . Danny
  3. Number one remote is the priority valve , same as a Magnum , number one remote valve is a different valve over 2,3,4 , you can look it up in the parts look up if you want to . That slide pin in the cab that goes through the remote levers was to lock the valves for road transport so you couldn’t bump a lever , if you set your detents with a flow rater and you need to do this , to kick out at the spec it will run your orbital motor just fine with out trying to lock it in the run position with that lock out pin . If the Detents are not set correct and the number 1 remote locks out it shut down n
  4. I have a couple RD sitting here for parts pumps if you need the transfer pump . I have one on my 1206 prototype and I think it runs around 90 psi at full throttle. If you want I can look in my service manual today if you need some specs . Just send me a pm if you need some help . ‘Danny
  5. The orbital motor needs to be plugged into the number one remote , that is the closest lever to the seat . Number one has priority over 2,3,4 and yes you -lug your return side into the single return coupler . The flow control is down by your right foot to speed up and slow down your pump . Just hook the hoses up to the pump for oil in and the return side back to the tractor return and it should work fine ‘Danny
  6. Yes Mark , I think if you get the regulator from a Bosh dealer if you can find one close to you or Oder it . They are way better quality than the ones you get from the rebuild shops . ‘Danny
  7. Kathy and I are very sorry to hear about your mom Billy , our sympathy to you and your entire family ❤️ Danny and Kathy
  8. We are coming down , just not sure what tractors I’m bringing yet , I can only bring two on my detach , the 53’ step deck is rented out for the summer . I’m thinking the 5388 and my narrow front 1086 ? Danny
  9. Stop at your local shop that rebuilds alternators and pickup a brush /regular assemble , it’s a 5 min job to change it out . Just on the back side of the alternator remove the plastic cover and two screws and the assembly pulls out , slip the new one in and and your good to go . Those Bosch alternators are really good units and this is about all that ever happens to them . ‘Danny
  10. Make sure you run 30 w IH diesel oil this is important on these old motors . On you oil filter base there is an oil by pass valve on the back side of the oil filter base , remove the plug and pull the spring and valve out , polish the valve and the bore in the base alittle , shim the spring up and put it back in , your pressure will go up on the gage .You might want to drop the oil pan and roll a set of new bearings in the motor , they are small bearings and are more than likely down to the copper . Danny
  11. I’m guessing you have bad fuel in the fuel system and the pump is sticking that’s why it’s not pumping fuel . I’m not sure what this motors have for a pump . Danny
  12. I have a couple new ones sitting on the self but I think there for a 400 series motor and I’m sure they are longer , if you can get me the measurements from center to center for the bolts holding it to the block . If you have no choice but to fix it you can put the style ones we have on out big pulling tractors and I have an extra one of those I could lone you or you can just make one to , it’s just two flat plates that bolt to the block and round pipe , not a big deal to make it . Send me a pm if you want and I will try and help you . ‘Danny
  13. I just seen that , must of been left over casts wheels from the 66 series . There was some roll over of inventory back then so it got used up and those units sometimes went out to the public or back to Hinsdale and scraped . ‘Danny
  14. That is awesome Tony , Josh is a really nice young man , it’s great to see the younger folks saving the history and having fun doing it 👍😎 Danny
  15. Everything went good last night , it was a test and tune for us . There is always remembering everything so you do it all right , moving weights around , air psi in rear tires, oh and make you have everything full /full of fuel !! Oh well nothing hurt other than our pride 😳😳 everything loaded on the trailer so it was good , until this coming weekend weekend 😊😊 Danny
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