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Merk's Achievements

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  1. I was 2013 Red Power Up Co-chair in Lima, Ohio. I handled the insurance part of the show. This is what I was told to do by the International Harvester Collectors Club (IHCC) insurance committee. Most if not all show sites have requirements that Red Power had to follow. I don't remember what they were. To show at any International Harvesters Collectors event you must be a member of the International Harvester Collector national group. Main reason is there is insurance coverage on your display at a show being provided by the National organization. Being a member of a chapter is optional and I strongly encourage everyone to be a member of a chapter or 2. Main reason to belong to a chapter is they have their own events in their state and are the ones who put on shows like RPRU. All drivers must be 16 years or older and a licensed driver I believe to drive at a show. Everyone driving needs to be a member of the Harvester Collectors group. As stated earlier the only time you can drive your display at a RPRU is to load, unload, parades and show book picture. The only one on the tractor while in motion is the driver unless there is a seat provided for the rider. The 2013 show had over 750 displays and 500-600 personal transportation devices not to mention the number of pedestrians on foot. There is not enough room to drive your tractor around at the show and be safe. I had several near misses during the 2013 show because people weren't watching the traffic. Lets add a moving tractor with an under 16 year old driver and see what happens. The shows are too big to be driving a tractor around. No one is driving tractor(s) at the shows I go to.....unless there is an area to plow, thresh wheat, saw mill, or run a dyno. The RPRU 2013 Lima show had track dyno and wheat treshing. For those who think we should be able to drive your tractor at a show or think changes need made....You need to get involved and help change insurance-site requirements. Nothing going to change sitting on the sidelines. April 10 Chapter 6 has a membership meeting at the Der Dutchman restaurant in Plain City, Ohio. They will be electing 3 Directors during the meeting. Here is your chance to get involved and make changes.
  2. Merk

    Cub Cadet 108

    Forgot the drive shaft. Thanks Nate. I don't use the 3 anti rattle springs when I rebuild a clutch. Here is the clutch I'm working on and the tool I use to hold the clutch assembly on. clutch in jig
  3. Merk

    Cub Cadet 108

    Here is what the clutch looks like: https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/content-asset-page-includes/ari-partstream.html#/Cub_Cadet/128_2050045U_2050217U_2050218U/Clutch/7b133d75-3c06-40fe-9876-71ceeed6c0b1/fbd9e825-0579-4438-baf3-f832060e7a7e/y
  4. Merk

    Cub Cadet 108

    This is the way I change a clutch: 1. Remove hood and grill 2. Remove engine 3. Remove tunnel cover 4. There is a collar in front of transmission with 2 coiled spring pins-drive one of the pins out. I would do the one towards the engine 5. There is a clutch rod under the trans-disconnect it. There are 2 ways to disconnect it....undo adjustment nut (towards engine or remove spring-cotter pin on the other end of the clutch rod 6. Remove pin that holds the clutch lever pin pin in place 7. Clutch should be able to be removed from tractor Are you replacing or rebuilding the clutch??? If you are rebuilding: 8. You need to compress the compression spring (big spring). One way is using a special jig to compress the spring. Another way is putting driveshaft in a vice and compress the spring. 9. Once you have spring compress-drive coiled spring out- 10. Release pressure on spring. 11. Remove compression spring-throw out bearing-clutch lever-spacer-teaser spring 12. Drive coiled spring pins out to remove pressure plates 13. Clutch should be apart. Inspect parts. I usually replace clutch disc-teaser spring-throw out bearing-drive shaft and coiled spring pins. I check the clutch lever for wear where the throw out bearing goes. I also check the holes where the pin that holds the clutch lever in the tractor for wear. On the 3 pin driver I check for wear on bushing in the center of the driver. The 3 coiled spring pins in the driver are check for wear. The pressure plates are tru up on a lathe. There are several aftermarket place to purchase parts that are cheaper than Cub Cadet. I'm not a fan of using aluminum clutch disc in a daily driver. The clutch is either engage or disengage. 14. I do the reverse to reassemble the clutch 15. I like to put the 3 pin driver on the clutch assembly when I do steps 8 and 9.
  5. I had shoulder surgery last November. I used the money to pay doctor bills.
  6. Merk

    CC Decals

    I get my decals for IH Cub Cadets from Maple Hunter. http://www.maplehunterdecalstexas.com/cubcadet105.aspx
  7. I have 2 tractors that been in the same family since they were new. One is a 1948 Farmall H that my Grandpa purchase new. The other one is a 1965 IH Cub Cadet 70 that my Wife's Uncle Dick purchase new.
  8. Merk


    Been having issues vertigo for the last few years. I have to watch how I stand up. The worse episode was when the bed was spinning in circles when I woke up. I ended up in the ER that day. Docs change my blood pressure meds and that helps most times. Biggest thing that help for me was having my hearing check. My hearing is bad enough that I need hearing aids. The hearing aids are helping with my vertigo issues. I found this info on Web MD. https://www.webmd.com/brain/vertigo-symptoms-causes-treatment#
  9. All Kohler engines I've work on have KOHLER stamp on the fan shroud:
  10. Here is a picture of a spare K341 I have. Note the position of the carb and exhaust coming out of the left side of the block. Look at 2nd picture in the above set of pictures. The exhaust on a Briggs engine exits out the side of the block. The exhaust on a Kohler K241-301-321 and 341 exits out the corner-45 degrees of the block.
  11. A Briggs and Stratton should have Make Model-Type-Code number(s)on top of the fan shroud. A Kohler K series engine will be have a tag with a serial number with the Model-Spec-Serial number(s). Numbers are usually on the side of the fan shroud.
  12. Carb looks like it is from a Briggs and Stratton engine. Can you post some pictures of the engine? My Troy Built tiller's carb looks like that one and it is a Briggs and Stratton engine.
  13. Prayers for quick recovery!
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