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Everything posted by gary1466

  1. Could it be someone put the gear in turned around so the square cut side of the teeth is to the front.
  2. I had a call from a customer saying he found a short pointed shaft with 2 flat sides in a 1456 filter housing. He was going to go to a tractor pull that day. I had to break the bad news to him that it was part of the differential spider gear cross. I wouldn't have thought it could suck it into the filter cavity but after replacing the diff assembly all was good.
  3. check to see if the bushing for the left brake pedal slid down the shaft to the left towards the clutch pedal. If the equalizer valve is not held towards the front of the tractor you will not have good brakes. The equalizer valve must be held to the front when either brake is individually applied.
  4. The picture of the range cover shows the pin is still in the upper hole of the shaft with the spring on it. The upper pin is to be removed to allow the linkage to drop allowing the arm to drop into the teeth when they are aligned.
  5. I have never seen a block with those holes.
  6. I think I have a new shaft for a narrow front. I have never tried to remove a shaft from a post. I always thought it maybe installed after heating the post. There is a rivet through both parts.
  7. Find a manifold of a 1460 or 80 combine that has been stored inside most of it's life. some look like new yet.
  8. Another 1 with the wrong hose to the injection pump.
  9. I went to the sale I think I bought my Walker 4ton floor jack on that sale. I worked at the dealership in Maquoketa till they closed in 85. I had my own shop for 10 years working on mainly IH tractors. Still have the shop with all the service tools and manuals. I can remember Kenny telling someone that he thought about putting Custers last stand on the sale bill
  10. That Hayes auction was 9 miles from me. It was screwed up on how everything ended @ once. Say you had $ 10,000 to spend and you didn't get the first item you were bidding on then you couldn't bid on another item with the $ 10,000 you still had.
  11. The terminal without a wire on it is used in a gas engine .It gives full voltage to the coil when starting bypassing the resistor in the system. You may get by with removing the main battery cable on the starter then loosen the thin locknut enough so you can push the stud in and turn it 180 degrees ( 1/2 a turn ) and pull it back toward the rear of the tractor then reinstall the locknut and battery cable. the stud has a square like a carriage bolt so you will feel it engage inside the cap.Don't tighten the stud locknut too tight as the cap will break. the backside of the stud gets worn away from arcing so this will usually make it work again
  12. No need to cut the hood I used to make brackets that were slotted for the bolts that mount it to the head. the bracket was wider top to bottom to allow for the slots and it had a cutout on the bottom side to clear the spark plug area I used the original belt and made a short piece of flat stock with a hole in each end to allow the original top bracket to connect to the alternator.
  13. does it have the correct hose from filters to to pump A hydraulic hose will not work it must be a soft type hose.
  14. Is the air intake open not something in the filter
  15. You don't need to take the cab off to remove the differential.
  16. I put a coleman axle off a 66 series on a 806 years ago . Of course the yoke for the ball and the driveshaft had to be shortened. I had a helper drive the tractor while 1 other person counted the revolutions of the axle yoke. Another person counting the transfer case yoke with the driveshaft off and transfer case engaged. in 100 revolutions I think we were within 1 or 2 turns.
  17. I did a 3688 years ago using 2 of the 180 degree hoses that connected the air filter to the intake on a 966 along with a short piece of tubing. the tubing may have have been from the 966 setup too .
  18. Cam bearings are a big wear item in a German diesel. the last one I worked on was in a 574 the oil pressure drop to 7 psi at idle when warm. I removed the tach drive after i had the head off and I put a dial indicator on #1 pushrod. I could lift the cam by the slot in it .017" The cam bearings have to be line bored after installation at a machine shop
  19. I toured the IH tractor and combine plants in 1977. they were building the 453 Hillside combines. That was neat to see them testing them for leaks by leaning the combine to all the extreme positions. I did tour the tractor plant in 1983 when I worked at a dealership. I toured the combine plant again just before it closed. I toured the Deere combine plant on a bank sponsored trip. they sat us in a room with the combine seat and joystick assembly for the seating. a video was shown with a guy starting the combine his brother had bought for the first time. That was a the guy that quit @ my present job and I took his job.
  20. I've never changed the gearing as you want to do but the 2600 rpm tractors also have a spacer plate for the MCV to make the pump gearing correct.
  21. It looks like 560 is written in black grease pencil on the right side under the 60
  22. yes I have seen the spring broken always amazed that the light spring the 86 series used would hold in park.
  23. I didn't notice the tires . I was looking at the woman that unhooked him lol
  24. I would think you could cut the housing down around a 300-560 ta assembly to lose weight. all the drivetrain is on center. The ta clutch part is dry so the only part that would need the oil contained would be the rear section though i'm not sure how you would couple to the output shaft gear. the belt pulley drive gear could be machined off to create a seal surface.
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