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About SaskM

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/02/1960

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    Craven, Saskatchewan

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  1. I see on Ebay that there is a seller listing the hood decals for $42.50......no clue on quality, but it is an option for you.
  2. Thanks Maynard. I am taking it apart this afternoon and picking up the new stuff tomorrow am.
  3. Doing some work on the steering on my 1086. Changing the steering cylinder end and trunnions and bushings. Book says to 'press' in the bushings but I don't have a press. Can I use the trunnion itself as a bushing driver and use my vise to squeeze them in or am I better taking it in to the dealer to get them pressed in? I also have quite a bit of vertical play in the steering center pivot. The parts book shows a washer and then shims (as required). I assume the washer would be on the bottom and then shims top and bottom to keep it centered? Is that correct? I have got probably 1/8 of play with the existing shim stack, so should I simply add equal number of shims to top and bottom to reduce the play or over time does more wear happen on the bottom - requiring more shims on the bottom to properly center the pivot assembly? Marty
  4. SaskM


    Thanks Jim for the good info. I didn't have a chance to check it yesterday, but now I have a good place to start. Marty
  5. SaskM


    I've got a 1969 Ford 250 Camper Special. Today I take it for a spin and the tach is showing much higher than normal. At first I thought it maybe hadn't shifted into third, but it had. Normally at 60mph the tach is showing 2400, but today it was showing 3600 and the motor was certainly not spinning that fast. It is an old Ohden brand tach mounted on the column. Can a tach fail? or do I have some sort of electrical gremlin to try and find. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  6. IH did not put the Turbo decals on the 86 series tractors. If you see them on tractors now, then they have been added by someone along the way.
  7. Thanks guys....I was hoping they would be reasonably easy - no point taking more apart than is necessary.
  8. This weekend I am planning to change coolant and all hoses on the 1086. I got the rad hoses and 15 feet of heater hose this morning at the dealer. My question is how hard is it to change the bypass hose without removing the water pump - can it be done? I think the lower hose will be pretty tough too, but I am hoping loosening the rad will help with that one. I am also changing the 2 valves that isolate the coolant filter and the 4 rubber mounts that secure the rad. After 40 years, this cooling system is long overdue!
  9. I am probably going to just run without it - at least for the short term. One thing for sure the carpet underlay won't be staying. I will have to check at a wrecker next time I am there - maybe I can at least see what that piece originally looked like.
  10. So the 1086 I am working on no longer has the factory type hood insulation over the muffler. The previous owner has folded up some carpet underlay and secured it under that center support bracket. What are you using as an aftermarket alternative to the $200 or so that Case wants for a new one? Also, is it kind of an odd shape as far as thickness goes? If it is meant to rest on the air cleaner at the front and into the rear hood support at the rear, to my eye it would be thicker in the middle (based on the center hood bracket depth) and then thin out towards each end.
  11. SaskM

    Cab Repair

    I would like to post pics of this and other things too, but sadly technology has the best of me on this site and pics are a no-go for me.
  12. SaskM

    Cab Repair

    Thanks for the info on the availability of seam sealer / body putty. I am going to town tomorrow, so will have to check with one of the body shops and order some.
  13. SaskM

    Cab Repair

    This spring I need to get fixing the rust holes on my new to me 1086. I have rusted out areas in the usual spots around the IH emblem on the back cab posts. What gauge of material are you guys using for doing this repair.....16 or 14 gauge maybe? Also, inside the cab there is some black putty like material used around the plastic air vent (used to seal the air box by the doors) and I think probably the same stuff on the back cowl area where the rollover tubing seams are. Anyone know what that stuff is and where to buy it?
  14. Dormer drill bits are very good. The potash mine I used to work at stocked them exclusively and you could easily drill upwards of 100 holes in mild steel with no loss in performance.
  15. I purchased a restoration quality muffler for my Farmall C from Steiners. It has the part number embossed on it like the original and also has the small discharge like the original. I replaced a Stanley with this one and can say that the sound is waaay nicer than the Stanley.
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