R190

CONGRATULATIONS That was a good year we will hit 47 in September.

Tony i am a fan of low ash oil in the 6 cylinder engines in fact I insist on it there. but we never had much luck with it in hydraulic lifter engines like your truck ,we sold a lot of 345 equiped combines and always used a straight weight 30 multi purpose gas/ diesel oil in them same for loadstar trucks back then it was IH no 1 oil which i think it had a series 1 rating back in the good old days . we also considered 10 lbs per thousand rpm adequate. Had a friend with 20 Loadstar school buses he ran straight 30 mutipurpose Mobil oil in them wit very good results. I personally would stay away from the synthetic for at least two oil changes or forever. Now oils have changed & rating of oils has changed it gets to be a challange but I would stay with a straight grade oil myself Then drive it like you were a kid again!

low ash oil 10 in winter 30 in summer if worked hard.

keep in mind the gauge is a volt meter not an amp meter it doesn't show how much the alternator is actually putting out jut the amount of force needed to add current to the system also what do you mean by the big wire is hot but dim what terminal is this "big wire" hooked to?

in my neck of the woods maybe 750-1000

it depends if the tractor was originally equipped with 15.5 -38s I think you can start with those if it had 34 in tires you may need to use a split weight first

x2

I didn't know a man could be that busy.

If you bought the screen recently its the transmission style pump set up the other style the screen is nla the only thing at the filter is vacuum if its on the screen in great amounts the filter is plugged we see screens tore loose occasionaly from running with a plugged filter change filter again put in another new screen and check it again at maybe 2-3 hours and see how much has accumulated on the filter

they are just common O-rings and you can get the gasket separate. that's what I do .

.070 seems pretty normal the countershafts are on ball bearings so they shouldn't have end pressyre

you still should tear it down before ordering parts but I would go for it you may find some stuck or a broken compression ring then if the bore and piston are good you will improve it if it doesn't burn much oil you know the oil rings are still doing theie job so the sleeves shouldn't be too bad .

he was one of the reasons GM sent out a little bracket and cable to attach to the frame and engine to keep the motor from rolling WHEN the mount broke they sent one for my 67 Impala

change the points they are what ground out the coil to make it spark

I just used 7/8 as an example 3/4, 7/8 ,and 1 inch are the most common square shaft and tube , after that most are shaft and slip sleeve. 1 3/16 being very common.