Jump to content

460

Members
  • Posts

    865
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 460

  1. Had it running a bunch the last 2 Saturdays. It was running a bit on the warm side so last Monday I ordered a high flow 160 degree Mopar thermostat same diameter as the Internationals at 2.5". Put that in today and also drilled a 3/16" bleed hole. This engine puts out some heat! Last Saturday, the temperature gauge was sitting nearly in the center and my fear was under load it was going to run even hotter. I found parts on the block that were hitting 195 and it had a 170 thermostat in it. There is a brand new water pump on what started to happen was the lower hose started to get warm shortly after start up and stayed that way. The only logical conclusion was pump was pulling heat out of the head through the bypass hose while the thermostat was closed or restricted. Now it sits right between the 2 lines and any where I look on the head the hottest I see is 180 degrees. I ran it down the driveway in 5th gear and for a gasser its got some guts. This would certainly explain some of the heat issue lol. Any way we are ready for dyno! My dyno guy is tied up with harvest/wrenching but will be over soon to break her in and twist her tail. Any work from here is cosmetic, fenders, sheet metal etc. I do have a exhaust manifold modification I will be working on for final dyno tune. I have a video but can't upload a MP4☹ Scott
  2. Thats two for Irwin! I was at Ace a few years ago and needed a set, as much as I hated to spend that much I bought a set of Irwin's 1/16-1/2". For home use they have treated me well. Better then expected.
  3. 1/16 scale 2388 bought at NFMS I forget what year maybe 2001? Pretty low carpet hours?. Seriously could never justify one for my little plot 5 acres of cash crop ?.
  4. Should be 7/8" socket. You can always contact REAM corporation and buy the 18mm to 14mm plug adapters and run a modern automotive plug. Scott
  5. It runs! One little coolant leak at the temp sensor, just snugged it a bit more. Slight leak around filter base on small bolts, just snugged them a bit more. Did 4 heat cycles. It sounds a bit deeper at idle and really responds when you crack the throttle.
  6. Not sure that any one is any more, I believethis came from Hycapacity. I can get you the thickness if you want to make your own.
  7. We will see hoping since it is a gasser less vibration. I also don't put a ton of hours on it. I will rinse the old one and store it assuming the tanks are still salvageable.
  8. Getting closer...did a muratic acid flush on the Radiator a couple weeks back well it still did not clean all the calcium deposits. So did another flush today. Well apparently the acid even though I did a though flush ate through some tubes. So its now junk! I am just going to buy a aluminum one and hopefully be done! Should have done that in the first place! I chose to use Evaporust on the inside the fuel tank as it had just a tiny bit especially in that bulge areas that is lower then the fuel line. Did a flush with diesel then gasoline. Its back on and ready for next weekend!
  9. Yes sir! I put a 666/686 front casting on a 656. Seen it done a puller years ago, and liked the light setup just like the big tractors. This was covered in the archived thread linked in the first post. Scott
  10. Thank you Sledgehammer! Well the small frame 6 cylinders tractors are in the dinning room...
  11. Me and my wife recently purchased our first house this summer. Well with that I can finally move my stuff out of my moms house! This includes my 1/16 scale tractor collection. My wife is a city girl so she gets a kick out of anything tractor related! The plan is in the works in the next year or 2 is to build a garage big enough to store the real tractors at home, the 656 and 244! Anyway spend last night carefully washing the years of dust off them. This morning placing them on the shelves. Scott
  12. Yesterday set the engine in. Me and dad put it back on 4 wheels yesterday. My wife was there helping too!
  13. Same here electric ignition with matching coil 12 volts to the coil. I also run REAM plug adapters and use NGK tech line to advise on the best modern automotive plug based on compression and fuel. Really seems to help.
  14. Finally was able to dedicate a day back to this engine! Finished assembly of the oil pump and oil pan, I prime it upside down with the gear off then remove the pump and put the gear on after priming. This ensures no chance of dry start. Anyway oil pan is on finally. Dad is going to throw some primer and paint on it this week and maybe I can slip it in the chassis next weekend.
  15. Imagine the improvement you would see if you ran plug adapters and a modern automotive plug built for today's fuels?
  16. Intake valve (s) hanging open? Bent? Soot? Out of adjustment?
  17. Float level sounds to low to me especially if screws and or choke virtually solves your issue.
  18. 25psi when idle? Or crusing down the road or 5K? 25psi would not scare me at idle. Have you pulled the filter and check for particles? It is a flat tappet?
  19. I get it about technology. Here is the thing though. Using your parents 88 van as a example. It made what 160-180hp? 12mpg and was seeping oil after 8-10 years. It also had a belt driven emissions pump that blew fresh air into the cat to help burn off emissions in the cat. A modern day V8 is getting millage in the high teens, with almost twice the hp or more (depending on displacement) with less emissions, it requires less service. As far as what I am doing, I have always liked to learn and try different things. This is why I was extemely successful at tractor pulling with dad and was approached to build pulling engines for competitor's. I have always believed that IH or any other company in the 50-60's had lacked much technology we have access to today. There is alot of modifications I am doing because I changed one thing that several others need to get changed to reap the entire benefit. Alot of this also goes back to also what dad has he has a stock restored 656U, was rebuilt stock 301 and was used for parades it NEVER sees work. It slobbers, no matter what we do. We broke it in on the dyno. It just seems like it need a better ring pack and more compression. Yes what I am doing is not for everyone, your right my budget is beyond most but if I had to build it twice like some I have seen on here with substandard parts my build will be cheaper. This is my justification.
  20. I also don't own a pulling tractor, I retired in 2009. There is alot of automotive, newer ag and truck technology that is absolutely neat to study. Today we live in a world where it is not uncommon for a well taken care of cars can go 250K, Trucks 1M, tractors 20K hrs. My point was some tech can be applied to old tractors that can solve old tractor issues that were common in the past. If you venture over to the build forum you will see my 291 build for my 656. If that engine does not last the rest of my life and make 15% over factory shoot me now! So am in the group that am building for tractor pulls and races because I am trying to build a better mouse trap?
  21. Not necessarily its still a internal cumbustion engine! More like different flavor of apples!?
  22. That is key ring land condition and bore condition!
  23. And 55 years later there is more to be had with better valve quality from the automotive side, liner material other then iron, tight clearences to help disapate the heat off the stem, positive valve seals to keep the stem area from carboning with oil which eliminates reduces heat disapation, valve angle improvement to aide in driving exhaust out of the port effectively. All can be done at a competent machine shop.
×
×
  • Create New...