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460

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  1. I pull my 656 gasser in 9K farm class once a year at the local fair or someone does a neighbor or friend of family, I have yet to run it but this year that will change. I have 16.9 GY Radials which help alot. I have a hitch fastened directly to the square tube and shim it to height accordingly. I had it water jetted out of 1.25 steel and uses x2 3/4" bolts attached through the square tube. I made it so I could adjust it forward and back depending on track conditions. I can get you a picture at some point. I run a belly bracket and quick hitch for Ballest. I did however bend the square tube one year, I replaced it with 5/16" wall square tube sliced end to end and welded corner to corner. I can usually be bottom of top ten out of 20 to 25 entries. I expect it to do a bit better with punched out 263 to 291 that's right at about 94hp. Better hope I never get 1st as dyno will throw me out we are allowed 10% hp and 5% on rpm. I run 1st gear. There have recently been some 1066 stripped down or a 1206 or a Deere take first in the class. Its a fun to play and see what the small framed tractor will do in the 9K class. I believe in the farm type classes the more weight is better with uncut tires. That 656 will shine in a 7000 to 8000lb class imo. This is my late neighbor pulling it back in 2013, don't mind the 666/686 front nose it is still a 656, this was 70hp dyno tuned 263. He was 4th I think? Scott
  2. One thing I do with all the sediment bowls is drill them out on both inlet and outlet. I also make sure there is no screen in tank or extension into tank. I want the water or sediment to settle into the bowl not bottom of the tank. I have seen a few severely rusted tanks from water that was trapped and had no way to escape. I expect if it is a fuel delivery problem as using the procedure proscribed by Gearclash using the choke to recover it, usually 1/4 choke allows that extra signal across the venturi. If already confirmed no vacuum leaks and spark is good, timing set, I found with the Ethanol fuel you can run a bit more timing, I can't verify this will work with everyone. With all that correct, I think your main jet needs a slight reaming for whatever reason especially with Ethanol fuel, I would start .002 at a time until the stumble is gone. Scott
  3. And if the OEM will even give up there precious drawings what will they supply a scanned draftsman drawing. They need a solid model in CAD to program there CNC. Gibtec or any piston manufacturer has the ability to scan a existing design and import it into CAD. Any piston designs I have done I sent them a solid model in either native Solid Works or IGS files. I'm not sure on the point on Hastings...I guess I was trying to suggest if you are going custom pistons you might as well update the ring pack to the 21st century this is far beyond what Hastings can offer.
  4. You could as already stated measure the ring lands for wear or if collapsed. If the above checks out, you could debur knocking down the high spots and edges with a sanding disc. The first shows what appears to be embedded steel all that needs to removed as this creates hot spots or could eventually become dislodged. Now if I wanted it to last I would box the best piston up, ship it up to Gibtec in Denver, Colorado and have 4 new pistons made and bore the block to that new custom piston size...I would put a modern ring from Total Seal based on Gibtec's and your engine shops recommendations. Scott
  5. I am not either but I don't recall the moisture out of the propane units I have been around. In the late 90's to early 2000's I worked at a machine shop that did a lot of rebuilding of propane powered 4.3L chevy's. They were hard on exhaust seats and valves! Clean burning as compared to gasoline! Scott
  6. I agree on the above on know this engine was a pain for Tony. The more I think about the moisture in the exhaust the more concerned I get. Unless he has some bad LP fuel you should not have any moisture in the exhaust especially LP. It burns ? hotter then gasoline and dryer.
  7. Priorities! Cup holders are most important duh! As for the 3.5 I don't own one. I went 5.0 V8 when I bought my 14 F-150 when I heard they were going aluminum I found a 14 on the lot before the 15's no regrets. Scott
  8. Tony first things first that NGK AB6 is 6 heat range and is too cold. My 291 build with 9:1 compression on gasoline I am using a 5 heat range. You can call NGK tech line to confirm, they recommended my plugs for me based on my application. I run plug adapters from REAM Corp so I can use a 14 mm plug for more selections if you can't find a hotter plug in 18mm. The advantage of a 14mm is they are a extended tip that allows the plug to extend further into the chamber increasing efficiency. For reference mine are a NGK TR5 2238, see pics below as comparison. Also don't be decived by the longer 14mm plug note the picture of it in in the cylinder head. This is the difference between a modern day plug and 20th century technology. Also can't say I am a big fan of points.. as I have dyno result to prove electronic ignition will increase hp as well as the constancy for years to come. Scott
  9. Yikes...does not look that tractor has ever seen a covered shed. I would say ASAP (All state Ag part) in the used section for your missing pieces. Those linkages are nice when working but alot of moving parts.
  10. Congratulations and by the looks of it that was no easy win!
  11. These are the tires that we used to make into V cuts using a 18.4, when me and dad were pulling with the NA 460. They were superior to the cut F&R.
  12. Most cam guys like Berry or I believe Vogel can repair a lobe by welding if you cannot obtain a better core. In most cases they just reshape the lobe by changing the smaller base circle. My C291 has been regrind and has just over .500 lift at stock rpm.
  13. We have reground lifters in the past for pulling engines. But as of lately for my long term rebuilds and the last build I bought a set of SBI lifters the Navistar off of Ebay are the same as the C263-C301. SBI is a big engine replacement parts manufacturer from what I remember from working at a engine machine shop years ago. My concern with resurfaced lifters is removing the surface hardness lifters for long term longevity. I belive in assembly lube and proper cam break in and oil. I am still regrinding the cams from Vogel or Berry, request the ~10% plus hp on regrind.
  14. Since you can't run radials. Unless your tracks are completely gravel and poorly prepared I would stay away from new and go after used 23 degree Firestone that were offered. You want a certain amount of slippage but also don't want to be piling the dirt in front of the sled, the advantage to a cut or worn tire. The other is the bias long bar short bar Firestone that was only made for a short time. But good luck finding a set in 16.9.
  15. One word...Radial. If the rules allow especially on gravel. I was luck enough to find a Good Year Radial 16.9x38 and build a hitch that bolts to the tube that I can adjust forward and back depending on track conditions but keep it at 20" height.
  16. I also enjoy this thread. I did get a chance to take mine out a couple times, riding right out of our new house. No chance to go to the UP riding again this year☹. I really do like a snowy winter!
  17. Put a wanted ad on pulloff.com surely some tractor puller removed one has one laying around in your area they would let go cheap.
  18. You can upload to YouTube and then link video.
  19. Glad you found the issue! Still would recommend plug adapters and NGK plugs...not only the heat range but projected tips. The problem with original plug is it is not. Onto manifold! It is worth a bunch of hp if not functional. Remember a cooler dense charge has more oxygen. My 263 on fully rich setting would pull 70hp at 540pto with a LP intake. When I started it was barely 60hp. The manifold is the single most improvement especially underload when getting rid of heat to find that 10hp. With my 291 build I don't run it much in the winter if I use it at all I would just throw some insulation from the frame rail to top paneling, it seems to transfer enough heat. Running on the dyno in the fall it was frosting pretty good. It has sat in the barn since November... When I built my 291 I was prepared if the LP manifold did not work to make a aluminum adapter and make a water heater for the intake. Then I could turn it on and off. If the intake needs any heat it needs very little like 200F. This is what the Chevy and Mopar I6 guys do. Scott
  20. First I would make certain your ignition is in tip top shape, electronics with 12v coil. I would be running plug adapters and a NGK plug based on a recommendation from the tech line based on the compression ratio, your at what ~8.5:1 a full point over stock? Then if you are sure you have no vacuum leaks and float is set right. Timing is set, valves are set. I would carefully ream out the main jet. 005 at a time. You can probably go more because you have a tapered metering jet adjustment. All this is much easier with assistance of a dyno as you can light and heavy load the motor. Honestly unless your **** bent on max hp a smaller venturi will run better in most conditions. This why on my 291 build I stuck to my 656 carb...it will atimize better but kill a bit of top end hp but who cares when your on the governor most times. Remember your higher compression is going to demand more fuel, also if your running 87 octane the ethanol will require 5-10% more fuel as well. This all could be attributing to your lean stumble or lack of signal accros the venturi. Also in the past we did business with Denny back in the mid 90's not buying or selling...I seem to remember atleast for pulling the venturi was modified so yours maybe losing signal as it is modified for pulling? Good luck! Scott
  21. Just another thought sounds like it could be something other then a carb... did the valves get adjusted wrong causing a hung open valve? You will chase your tail with that!
  22. Because NGK is not a subsidiary to any OEM. It is a stand alone company.
  23. I can prove you wrong...but only verbally. I know someone who does engine development for a OEM. They prefer to do the testing with NGK plugs and know they give away hp and torque on the dyno using the OEM branded plug. They do all their severe tuning tests with NGK plugs because under rich and extreme lean torture tests conditions the NGK plug holds up best.
  24. Is this 18mm? If so I would put some 18-14mm plug adapters from REAM Corp that advertise in RP, they also have a website. Then you can go to a standard 14mm automotive plug. If your not sure which plug in 14mm, NGK has a great tech line if you can find out what the compression ratio this is key. Obviously I am partial to NGK... Scott
  25. I use a variety of sealers. Rtv for standard gasket sealing, as already stated just a smear. Hylomar for water system of stuff that might be serviced again. The Right Stuff of all cork as this is urethane based sealed and helps prolong the cork from getting oil saturated. Yamabond/Hondabond for those thin gasket dressing that is stringy and remains plyable. I believe in most cases gasket dressing is required as most of the stuff I work on has been repaired multiple times and has gouges. Even though I clean with mineral spirits and stone the surfaces. Pipe sealer with liquid Teflon on all fittings. Never use Teflon tape on oil galley plugs for risk of a chunk of Teflon going into bearings.
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