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460

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Everything posted by 460

  1. I would use a Loctite product such as a sleeve and bearing retainer before JB weld. The JB will eventually shrink and fall out. Did it leak before? There was probably enough press that it sealed up in the past as this looks likes a past scar. Dont forget the cooling system only has a 7-10 psi of pressure so will not take much to seal up.
  2. Bob Hines outside of Indy. He use to work at Indy cylinder head and did all their iron head repair. He does mostly pulling stuff now not sure if he even does repair any more. He use to advertise in the hook. He did our D282 cylinder head years ago filling it solid with iron, welding up the injector holes and drilling for 14mm spark plug holes plus the port and polishing. There is also Eddy Ingram of Tennessee he does some iron pulling cylinder head work as well.
  3. I beleive these smaller tractors do have a bit less pump. Remember it is a single pump for all the hydraulics, where the bigger tractors had a pump dedicated for steering, brakes and TA separated from the main hydraulics. There was a larger pump you could put in them I believe standard was 12gpm the larger was 16gpm? I know I have the larger on my 656. I think in the best of conditions my 656 would never steer easier then the larger 1066's or the likes. I also have the space plate from I beleive Hycapacity to use the extended filter.
  4. Oh the GM's are not that bad at least for me. My 2008 GM they say the pressure of each tire and never found them to be that inaccurate from any tire gauge. On my 2014 Ford f150 does not even tell you the individual air pressure, all it will indicate is a tire is low. I have replaced a couple on my 2008 GM with 165K as they are only good for 10 years and found they can be bought on Rockauto for like $30. If your paying $100 your paying to much!
  5. I wonder if you could put all 4 sensors in the spare tire? That would take care of it!
  6. Should be 1/4 pipe, pretty sure we have one laying around if your interested. They even have that "aged" look, all our tractors were replaced with spin on housings off 715 combines. You should be able to just replace the housing and use your original canister. I know you want to keep it original but dont let paint blur your vision over function.
  7. I used small screws and nuts from a hobby store on our 460 way back.
  8. Ok so 2 summers ago I replaced the bolster on my 656 it is a wide front but believe it was a narrow at one point in its life. I had a oil seal seaping in the bolster and someone near me was parting out a low hour hydro 70 that had a wide front since day one. So swapped bolsters and have noticed ever since the steering looses prime from sitting and usually takes a minute to prime up upon starting. I believe I read in either the owners manual or shop to bleed the system by cranking the wheel in both directions several times. This does have the high volume hydraulic pump. 3pt has always been really strong as is the steering. Have not thought much about it as I figured working some ground for a few hours on end would take care of it. Well 8 plus hours later it still is there and could feel almost air when running it in the field yesterday early on it never got worse seemed to go away. What can be done to bleed out the air in the steering? Fluid is fresh and I have the larger filter with the extension from Hy Capacity. I have flushed all the fluid twice since I had it about 60hrs and 8 years. It does sit inside so water is not a factor besides condensation but do use CIH Hytrans.
  9. Since I did not plant this year I had a great crop of weeds? Sprayed in July. Mowed in September, first disking first of October, second was today.
  10. Well it has to be lower then some of the racing fuels I have used. I cut 110 racing with some 93 in the ratio of half gallon to 12 gallons or there abouts. The race fuel is so strong I can still smell the race fuel in the exhaust on my Mustang. I assume this is mostly the lead additives that I smell. Certainly smells better the straight unleaded. Scott
  11. Have a FS730 Kawasaki on moms 2013 Bad Boy mower. 340 hrs just did valve adjustment recently as they were clattered at idle and certain speeds. Only other thing done besides oil and air filters is one of the coils burned up under warranty. I did remove the shroud and clean it once but found very little build up. Everyone I know who has went to a zero turn will never consider a steering wheel mower again.
  12. When 90 rec fuel was not as common, I would run 100octane low lead Av gas in the generator. I hear it has a 10 year shelf life plus with the low lead it cant hurt the valves and guides. I have seen no poor running effects.
  13. Great little project! Besides my 656 always had a soft spot for the 544 as they were economical but virtually the same tractor. Love those rear tires!
  14. I have used a dremel many times even to remove fragments of broken drill bits or ez outs. I also have found the dremel useful to grind a hole on center.
  15. Wonder if they will blame it on installation error and only cove parts or nothing.
  16. Very nice! Love the attention to detail on the cab. I take it the original cab was beyond saving from rust?
  17. Can you give us alittle more insite on that ultra rare front end? I know and can kind of see it was repaired? But can't tell to much. Looks nice though! Scott
  18. Have used this company in the past very professional. But note they are closed the month of March. http://hbrepair.com
  19. Tony, Here is a 291 piston I am doing because I am sick of the old technology and junk out of China. For a little more money you can just go custom and use the latest ring technology this one has LSX rings. I have a copy of solid works so I did the solid model of just the dish myself and sent it to the piston manufacturer. I have done pulling engines in the past. Also a Ford engineer who does combustion chamber design gave me a few pointers. I am hoping end up with a engine that will last me the rest of my days, I'm 37 and don't use my 656 every day and also hope to be able to roll the engine over using the fan blades by hand by the reduced friction in the rings. Scott
  20. What is the picture of that the second picture shows? Mains look like either a dry start or a little tight on clearance. Don't see a lot of debris maybe a little but not a lot. Can you post pictures of the rod bearings without the flash? Looking again rod bearing may have a uneven wear indicating taper on crank journal? These days if I bench build these, I will flip the engine upside down while on the stand, pull the oil pump gear off, reinstall pump then prime pump with 1/4" ratchet while a helper pours oil in the oil pick up. Make sure you turn engine over 1/4 turn at a time to make certain all rods have oil. Then carefully pull pump back off reinstall gear and pin I use a locktite product for extra security for both pin and gear. Then reinstall pump making sure shaft is clocked properly. Then pan and gasket, then flip engine over. This will eliminate any chance of dry start and should be the last step before removing from engine stand. For in frame pump should be built with a assembly lube we use the red assembly with lots of tack so it will create a good suction to draw the oil up the pickup.
  21. 656 progress/restoration/ modifications thread. http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=80145 Scott
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