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460

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Everything posted by 460

  1. I just did some on my 2008 Cobalt, the critical thing is the brand of the actual LED. I learned ZES is a good brand and actually bought Creo as well. The Creo were returned as they were not even as bright as the halogen. The ZES are unbelievable in brightness, the brand I went with was JDM ASTAR. I have no interference with the radio. I found this video on YouTube as a guide for selecting the right lights.Link to YouTube Scott
  2. On my 94 in the past I would pull the cooler line and run it in a bucket, start it and shut it off when it stopped flowing. This will get more out then the traditional method of just dropping the pan. Also I believe or least my 94 did it will have a drain plug on the torque converter.
  3. Be very careful with the block of wood, the cast pulley is pretty fragile. I broke one last time I did a seal on my 656, just was alittle off center with the block and crack. Next one I install I will only be pounding in the washer/nut area and use the nut to pull it on once far enough. Alittle heat is ok but usually they dont go on that hard anyway. Scott
  4. This is actually dads shop, it is a room that was added on the back of his main shop it is a engine building room and bathroom. It was built about 10 years ago. Anyway he used a product called Ucoat it, they make it where you can seal it and add flakes. He did not it is just sealed. It has held up well so far.
  5. 460

    715 value

    There also was a time not very long ago that you could have a good running engine for $500.
  6. Post up what project or project your working on this winter to pass the time? I'm building a 291 for my 656. This is no ordinary 291, its custom pistons and sleeves. It will be broke in on the dyno and tuned when the weather breaks in the spring. Hoping for 90+hp and 110+hp at torque rise. Also chasing a oil and water leak on my 244 although no big deal I use it for snow so it will be late winter. I really enjoy the time in the shop this time of year, it's a change of pace from summer. I work a day job so mostly it is weekends is my time in the shop. Let's see yours! Scott
  7. Troy. but my sand box where I play is in Armada...Haha. Yes I think I did see the store on line in Jackson, I thought that was the only one in Michigan. Scott
  8. Yes that is right, I follow Blains on FB but have yet to buy anything online from them. When I was in Iowa I spent hundreds on all types of stuff that got trucked back to Michigan week after week.
  9. We have TSC in Michigan its nothing to crow about I grab some hardware every once in a while. After working in Iowa and then later in Wisconsin and discovering Blain's Farm and fleet nothing compares.
  10. This past weekend in Michigan. The 656 is ready at my moms when it gets bad there.
  11. I have Kobalt and really like the 1/4", just is rough on 1/4" to 1/2" adapter bits. I was trying to upgrade my dad on Milwaukee for Christmas and found this set, in fact ordered 2...to good to be true as it always is. Link Scott
  12. Condolences and dont give up! To many will miss you. I will miss your pics you post on RP. Prayers sent! Scott
  13. I use Clevite 77 bearing assembly lube on my builds, its red and has lots of tack. Yup it's a flat taper so zinc is highly recommended 1000-1200ppm min. My build I'm breaking in on the dyno with Cenpeco super racing oil 10W30 then it will be 10w30 S3 Cenpeco there after. I tightened up the tolerances to go multiple grade. I also changed to a modern day automotive LS Chevy piston ring pack. Without a dyno I would do light to medium loading at various RPM in road gear. I would minimize under 1000rpm for less then a minute until after 1-2 hours (think cam/lifters oil splash). I would'nt heavy load until after atleast 3 hrs. Because of the oil pump gear attached, I bench prime when engine is upside down. With gear removed off oil pump I pour oil down pickup with a helper turning the pump through the distributor hole. When I see oil flowing out all the mains and rods after rotating the crankshaft in a few different positions. I then remove oil pump and reinstall gear, this is a bit messy. But I know she is primed. Scott
  14. No dont see a issue. Copy formula and drag it down!
  15. I dont see your issue with Excel, it's a powerful tool and sounds like user error in the past. MS Excel is used in about ever industry under the sun. Are you familiar with formulas, sounds like a simple sum formula? Google sheets has a Excel equivalent you could try also. Scott
  16. Find a IH engine of equivalent size maybe a farmall A and repower? And make half a tractor out of it, be careful with all that torque.
  17. I think most has been covered, IH used a good quality high nickel content iron at least compared to automotive applications of the same time frame. When we use to tractor pull and run 301 block and bore the blocks for 4" bores the ware seemed to be fine with the dry fuels we were using. A sleeve inside of block is much stronger and shows less distoratation in both block and bore. Sleeve quality can be argued this day and age essentially what's come out of some the kits. This is the reason in my 263/291 build I did a custom dutile iron sleeve. I did consider boring the block there was 2 reasons I did not. (1)I had a porosity or a punch gouge in one of the cylinders that would not clean up at 3.750. (2) I would have to machine filler spacers receivers for the counter bores which would have cost about half the cost of the sleeves. Scott
  18. Also is that a shepherd puppy? I bet you remember him/her!?
  19. Yes it was and is also adjusted with a flat screw driver.
  20. Yeah when these were new at least the 656's the solenoid was adjustable, of course the replacements are not. I drilled my carb out so that adjustment is truly a metering rod. I have a setting for farm use and one for pulling. I imagine if you look hard enough in the salvage yards you can find a original. I picked 2 NOS ones out is Washington state from the constitution side, but so far my original is still working. Scott
  21. If it 5/16"=25ft lbs, 3/8"=35ft lbs...pretty standard on those sizes for course thread. This is the clutch plate of course. Flywheel is only about 90 ft lbs...there only 7/16 fine thread! Scott
  22. Light farm use and annual fair farm class pull. Better not get first as this will not pass the 5% over dyno test!
  23. Yup this will be tuned on the dyno right after start up, I'm also bumping the compression up. I'm using a good quality automotive valve so doubt I will have any issues there. Just was working on it today cleaning the block it is a 263 block with 291 pistons in it. Another thing I was thinking about this thread today was run on. These have issues not because of how the timing is set. The chamber and piston design is poor, compression is too low also if there is something in the chamber that can create a ignition source such as carbon. I'm addressing this in my build by higher compression (9:1), quench in piston design and thermo barriers coatings in the chamber and exhaust ports to cut down on the heat build up.
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