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About whithj

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    Cedar Rapids, Iowa
  1. Farmall 806D draft control leak

    There is an oring on each end of the shaft. You will need to drain the hytran and pull the pto and remove the 3 point arms off the splined draft shaft. Then reach in through the rear housing and remove the draft linkage off the draft shaft. Then the shaft will slide out either side and should clear the tire and rim. While you have it apart, replace both orings on the shaft, inspect the bushings but they rarely need attention. I just did this process to my 1206 and 1066 this winter.
  2. 1066 TA freewheel

    1066 freewheels when TA is pulled back, other than that, functions as it should. I put a gauge on and have 300 psi when TA is forward and back, I made sure TA cylinder bottoms out on snap ring and pulls up 1 9/64" when TA lever is pulled back. Oil level is a couple gallons over the full line. So do I have internal sprag issues? Any other ideas to eliminate the freewheel or does this require splitting the tractor? Was wondering if the O-rings on the 3 lube supply tubes could be leaking, if new o rings there would help or not? Thanks for any help.
  3. Draft shaft oil leak question

    Ironically, both the 1066 & 1206 have started dripping oil from the splined draft shaft in the bottom rear of the rear frame. I pulled the 3 point lift arms off the splined draft shaft so I can see the seals on either side where shaft comes through the rear frame. Does this job require pulling the shaft out or can new seals be installed with the shaft in? Assuming I'll need to drain the hytran either way? Thank you for any guidance.
  4. seat shock question

    Back to top, still looking for help. Thanks.
  5. seat shock question

    Beside a bushing kit I need the below parts. I cannot find anyone who sales a pair of seat brackets pictured in the middle. Mine are too far gone, holes are egged out beyond the bushing. Anyone know where I can find them? I would think it would be tough to find any decent ones that aren't junk at a salvage yard. Also, need advise if my seat shock is still good or not. After seeing prices on the seat suspension shafts, I'll probably make my own out of some round stock steel rod.
  6. seat shock question

    I'm rebuilding seat on a 1206. The hydraulic shock shaft moves in and out smoothly, but it will not push the shaft out on it's own. Assuming this means the shock is junk and that it should push the shaft out on it's own?
  7. 560 D Fuel Injection Pump problems

    I got it figured out and the 560 runs as it should and the o ring drip is good too. The shaft had turned in the linkage just enough so the cam didn't engage the spring. A friend had a savage engine block with pump so I opened the pump and took out the shaft assembly to compare against mine. In a side by side comparison, it was obvious my shaft was not in the proper position. I reset it back where it needed to be and repinged the shaft end to lock the linkage and shaft together. Reassembled and all is good. I had the dang thing together and apart 5 times, I was getting frustrated. Thanks for the suggestions and help!
  8. 560 D Fuel Injection Pump problems

    I understand what you mean and I believe I have it correct, but the cam fork doesn't engage the spring. When I rotate the cam so it slides on the other shaft grove, it rolls towards front of tractor which is definitely wrong. Is it possible the shaft turned in the linkage, I did loosen the Allen head screw and removed the spring tension linkage? I've been starring at it so long, it's probably a stupid mistake, I just can't seem to figure out!
  9. I had a fuel leaking out of the throttle linkage were it pivots on a shaft on the side of pump that's against the engine block. Took off governor cap, pulled c clip and slid the two halves of the shaft apart to replace o-rings. Reassembled and I fixed the fuel leak, but created a bigger problem, tractor starts and shuts off, but I have no throttle. What did I do wrong?
  10. Need tips for removing notched tie rod

    Guys thanks for all the tips. I used an air hammer and angled the bit into the side of the ball joint cup (the ball joint peeled out yesterday as I was prying on it, trying to twist the tie rod loose). With the ball joint gone the empty cup worked great for the air hammer and with in a few minutes I had the tie rod out. I image I would have beat on the thing for at least an hour and cussed a lot if I hadn't asked for your help!
  11. I need to replace the left notched tie-rod and outer ball joint on a 1066. After heating up the tie-rod tube, what's the best way to loosen the rod so it slides out of the tube? Wasn't sure the best way without damaging the inner ball joint? Thanks for any tips, it will save me some headaches.