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ihred

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  1. Last time I needed one 3 or 4 yrs ago cih had changed to cork style gasket, I would put the old rubber one on before I'd do that. Ended up getting one from Hy Capacity it was rubber.
  2. The mains are date stamped 09/75 the rods are 10/75
  3. Found sludge in oil pan, Do you think #4 main starved for oil? it supplies #4 rod which looks like was getting hot also included a pic of #4 upper main. Crank looks like it should polish out.
  4. I hope to get it tore apart this weekend first I'll pull the pan to identify how the coolant is getting in. I only called one place so far, Restoration Tractor they are closed till Monday. I did look on Hy-Capacity website they sell Maxiforce (reliance?) ?? Hope to find out more next week.
  5. I know this has been discussed within the past yr and I searched for a couple hrs and can't find it. I have a 1066 7400 hrs getting coolant in oil when it sits. I've owned it for 3 yrs. bought it from a friends widow after he passed. I would service it for him for the 20 years before that, he only used it in summer months and every spring I would loosen the drain plug and some times not all drain off a little coolant. Yesterday I ran it some and blowby got really bad and the guage was creeping toward hot I shut it down checked dip stick and it's over an inch above full and kinda milky. I'm ready to do an inframe and wondering which brand kit to get since I remember reading some are not as good as they should be
  6. If you do try to remove the orfice I reccomend don't use a screwdriver even if it seems like it fits real good, been there done that didn't turn out well.
  7. It turns one direction only smooth appears good to go. I agree I always try to find what caused the failure. In this case it apparently slipped got too hot this tractor used to go do field work I suspect it was used year in year out and the adjustment never checked finally wore enough to allow it to slip. surprisingly the flywheel doesn't show any sigh of being hot. That's how I started to go about it, not exactly like you said but same process. I was too afraid to hit it hard to make it move especially not knowing for sure it would move before breaking the gear so I focused on getting the bearing off the ipto shaft that actually was not too hard. I used a small sharp chisel between bearing and gear and it moved a little then popped it right off with air hammer like was advised in previous post.
  8. Since he's been using it the past few years in ta only without any hiccups we will roll the dice it will be ok. it will only run a bush hog and auger from here on out less than 50 hrs a year. I will check that nut before we go together with it. One other question, the yoke that holds release bearing carrier for ta release bearing is loose on the pins should it be tight? I cheked into replacing all of that outfit but the cradle p/n 360653R2 is no longer available.
  9. Thanks for everyone's help here is what I did to get the PP and clutch out with one split. I used the slide hammer to remove the input shaft from the coupler then moved the bearing on the ipto shaft starting with a small chisel then used the air chisel to move it the rest of the way it was fairly easy. just to clarify the input shaft will not fit through the hollow pto shaft but when the bearing was removed both shafts came right out easily.
  10. Well I feel stupid,, for some reason I thought the TA cluth and PP could be serviced from a single split. Thanks for clarifying I've been in several larger tractors with hyd TA's but this one is a learning experience for me.
  11. I got it split but can't get shaft out to get to PP. I took the bolt off on the end of IPTO shaft behind plug but couldn't get the gear to move didn't want to get too rough with it and possibly break it. I tried pulling the input shaft out it would move far enough to release from the clutch plate but won't come any further. can someone tell me what I'm missing.
  12. I'm helping a friend repair his 686 I drove it before we pulled it into the shop and it only has one speed in ta or dd I've worked on several hydraulic operated ta's in the bigger tractors but this is new to me I read through the other thread that is currently going on and it's helped a lot. I took off the inspection cover on top and the problem looks obvious, i'm planning on splitting it tomorrow and one of the first concerns I have is when the rails and the bellhousing bolts are removed their is nothing to support the rear of the engine seems odd to me. I plan on blocking it up at the rear of the engine before I split it but still odd. I'll put a pic of what I found under the top cover.
  13. Test drive in all gears pay attention in reverse if you hear a click you know a tooth is knocked of the park gear. For me it's not necessarily a deal breaker as it doesn't effect the forward gears but it will change the price I would pay it's a huge job to change that gear. Check steering to see if it's loose, another thing that can be fixed but if worn bad can get costly.
  14. Yes I did, great point though many don't know to do this I had to straighten out a friend a few months ago.
  15. You guys are all right, it is item #40 calls for 5/16 x 1" it says bolt but is counter sunk screw. Thank you so much Yep some bushings were shot I replaced them all and bearings in right side hanger were completely gone ruined hanger. I put in a new updated hanger should run like a sewing machine now.
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