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Everything posted by chevenstein

  1. Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm going to keep the shifters stock. I know I need to replace every bushing, replace the spring and detent balls in the range cover, and possibly put a bearing into the linkage where the shafts meet to make it work well. I just prefer the linear setup for a loader tractor over the H pattern. That all seems far away though as I still have a lot of tearing down to do before I even start renewing anything. This is going to sit for a while after I go back to work tomorrow, I should be able to make progress over Christmas though.
  2. A little progress today: I made a Harbor Freight trailer jack into a splitting implement and used that with a couple of their 12 ton jack stands under the rear and my engine hoist to split the tractor. The clutch was full of oil and the input shaft is worn, I'm not sure if that's too worn to reuse. The pins in the front end are a bit sloppy, once this tractor is back together I might put a loader on it so I would like to get the front end as tight as I can. I'll have to see if anyone has advice on dealing with this as I only know how to replace the pins and/or bushings, but I'm not sure that the front end has replaceable bushings. Next I will finish getting the engine out of the front frame then start taking everything off of the top of the rear half. I'm not sure how I'm going to separate the speed transmission from the rear housing, I've never done that on a larger tractor before and I know there are a few tricks to it (that I don't know).
  3. Ouch! Thanks for the insight. At least that's all contained in the speed housing, right? I'm hoping I can get away with not tearing the rear end housing down as well, but I don't have that opened up, yet, so I don't know what lurks therein. Is there a way to modify the park pawl actuation to prevent this in the future (is that what the spring loaded design prevents)?
  4. Not sure, how do I tell? I've only ever worked on 86 series and older IH tractors (300, 350), this is my first 06.
  5. Thanks @acem, it does indeed look like the head gasket is blown out between 2-3, 3-4, and 4-5 (I always have had a hard time knowing what I'm looking at on head gaskets, but the blackened areas are where the combustion blew past the fire rings, I think). As an added bonus I found two gear teeth when I drained the rear end! This thing is probably going to have to get completely torn down.
  6. I started another thread about the 706, I probably won't update this one anymore and either start a new one for the payloader engine swap or not document that as detroit motors in wheel loaders are probably passe among this audience.
  7. This thread is to track my progress on the Farmall 706 I originally bought for the motor in the thread about my Trojan payloader: I got the tractor cleaned off and into my workshop today. To move it I got it started with the glow plugs and it started pretty hard plugged in with a warm block but sounded OK once hitting on call cylinders. The transmission makes a ton of noise with the clutch in or out (clack clack clack) and the PTO doesn't work so there's something wrong in there. The steering, TA, brakes, and 3pt hitch all do seem to work OK though so the MCV and hitch pumps are probably fine. All gears seem to work but the shift linkage is pretty sloppy (getting into reverse is a feat). The engine had straight water in the radiator and the cap and filler tube had gray sludge like you get with water in the oil so the head or head gasket are suspect. No water in the oil. Next I'll get everything drained, finish taking the tin and fuel tank off, then set about to split the tractor and tear the engine down to see what's what.
  8. I don't know if Art reads this forum, but he texted me the morning that he got the D301 we had talked about back in June pulled out of the shed and wanted to know whether I'm still interested. Well, as luck would have it since I decided to fix the 706 up I had bid on a running takeout 453 Detroit earlier in the morning on Purple Wave and won it! I have been really blessed this year in many ways, so I will also buy Art's 301. I need to get them both shipped back to Virginia, but given they're both already on pallets that should be straightforward with an LTL carrier, then I'll have: - the auction 706 needing who knows what but it starts hard and looks the worse for wear - the D301 from Kansas that came out of a running combine - the 453 detroit out of some piece of construction equipment that was running fine but had a major frame failure of some sort so they pulled the motor and cut the rest of machine up. From the PurpleWave photo it looks like the Detroit drove a converter of some sort previously, so I am optimistic that it might just bolt up. I don't remember, I'm on a trip out west right now but I'll post what I had run originally and what's there now when I get back. In 2008/9 I kept going one heat range higher every time I replaced the plugs to try and get it to run right until the guy at NAPA said you're in aircraft territory beyond where I was.
  9. Ha: I've been told that if I go any higher heat on the plugs that I'll be into an aircraft plug and those would have to be special ordered. No, I'm done messing with gas engines in equipment - I even run an M18 chainsaw now for my field edge cleanup needs. Not having to worry about storing gasoline or dealing with carburetors, points, and damp distributor caps since I basically stopped using my gas chainsaw and the payloader got to where it wasn't really usable anymore has been a liberating experience. Yeah, I'll probably fix the 706 up. I've been slammed at work today and likely won't get to messing with the new tractor until the weekend. Back to looking for a motor for the payloader...
  10. I also bid on that single axle Mack dump truck because I think my neighbor is sick of hauling things for me. I cannot believe a 52 year old dump truck (albeit in fairly nice shape) went for thirteen grand! Unbelievable. I was out at a fraction of that I had written the 264 off as something not popular enough for anyone to make hard parts for, but I guess I was wrong. That must be recent as I couldn't find much more than gaskets for this engine a couple of years ago. I still want everything I run to be diesel, I am leaning more toward fixing the 706 up now, we'll see.
  11. That's the one! Was I bidding against you? Do you know any history of the tractor? There was a beat up 706 at the same auction back in the spring - March maybe, it got bid up to $2k but didn't sell. I wonder if this was the same tractor. LOL @hardtail, when I said two wives I mean this one and one prior. She's pretty supportive of the old-iron-itis condition.
  12. PS - My wife has threatened to create an account here just to flame me for taking the 706 apart for the motor. I told Mrs. Chevenstein that I tried really hard to buy just the engine, but it hasn't worked out (Art in Kansas, if you do end up getting that combine motor out of your shed and still want to sell it to me, please give me a call!).
  13. Hi everyone, I've made progress on this project: I bought a beat up old 706 with a 282 in it today at a sale for cheap ($2500!) and it even runs. I'll pull both motors later this fall and get the tractor engine ready for the payloader over the winter. I'll go through the motor and may rebuild it depending on tolerances, etc. Given the feedback that I cannot swap the timing covers I guess I'll fabricate a bracket to hold the front of the engine. I'm counting on the flywheel and bell housing bolting up, if they don't then it's back to the drawing board. I'll also have a new project, which depending on the condition of the rest of the tractor will either be a 706 needing an engine (I need the payloader more than I need another tractor), or most of a 706 that can be used to rehab another tractor.
  14. The PTO has its own hydraulic pump!?!? You just blew my mind. I dumped another 5 gallons of hyd oil in the tractor (it was between full and add sitting level) and the issue has not come back. I will pull the PTO unit and check that tube the next time I have the rear end drained. Thansk guys!
  15. I considered that, but when I've had fuel issues in my other tractors the problem is much longer lived - the power loss takes a little while to be noticeable then takes longer to clear up (if it does at all). I had somehow gotten a piece of plastic and pine needles in the fuel tank on my White and it would start to lose power on hills before I got that junk out of the tank, but that took tens of seconds or even minutes to happen then pass. This issue is like the mower caught a lump of dirt or something and you get that sudden sharp power suck - even when that happens this tractor doesn't notice much because it's so powerful relative to the load of a 10 foot discbine. The ground is smooth where this happened (just sloped).
  16. Thank you all again for the help with the hitch pump issue I had last month, once it was pointed out to me that the teflon seal goes inside a normal o ring it solved my problem. Now I've been cutting hay with the tractor and noticed something weird today: when going down steeper hills in Low-3 TA up and running a discbine the engine will suddenly bog down like I'd shut the PTO off then quickly turned it back on. This is a quick lug - the whole thing takes maybe a second and a snort of smoke and it's back to normal. At first I thought maybe the cab was shifting on its mounts and moving the PTO linkage so I watched the mower closely a couple of times when this happened and the mower does not appear to be slowing down. Also, this happens quickly, so if it really was an issue with the PTO the inertia of the mower wouldn't cause that big of a speed drop for it to bog down like it is. It only does this when going down a steeper hill and it's not every time - maybe one in ten times as I go around the field. Uphill is no problem. Does this sound familiar to anyone?
  17. So move the draft level forward? I've only ever use the 3pt on this tractor to run a discbine that used the bottom two links to mount, but that was only a few times. All of my other tractors (older Whites and Cases) just have one 3pt lever, so I guess I don't really know how to use the setup in the 1486. Now for an even dumber question: for the o-ring to use with the teflon seal, what size o-ring is that supposed to be and is there a special way to install it? Since we all appreciate pictures of nice looking red tractors, I snapped this one the other night when I pulled the cutterbar off the discbine to send out for repair. This is how I originally found that there was a hydraulic problem: the tractor could only lift the mower when running at PTO speed, and even then it was super slow.
  18. Thanks Ace, I also didn't think of the 3pt hitch impacting the pressure reading I took from one of the remotes. The levers were/are set as shown:
  19. Thanks guys! Good to know on the teflon seals being single use, that's probably my issue as i reused it when I put it back together with the second o-ring. Good idea checking the pump itself and regulator, I had assumed the pump was fine and completely forgot about the regulator since it's an open center system. Thanks again!
  20. I have a 1486 that stopped building meaningful hitch pump pressure recently. Thanks to this wonderful forum I first checked the high pressure seal between the pump mounting plate and the rear end housing and found the double o-ring to have blown out. I ordered the teflon replacement seal, 395312R1, and put it back together only to still be getting about 300 PSI at the remote ports. I drained the tractor and pulled the pump off again and realized that the old seal was two o-rings so the teflon seal must be meant to have an o-ring around it (is it?), so I put one in and now I don't have any pressure at all. Before I drain and take this thing apart a third time, what is the correct procedure to deal with this issue? I do not appear to have the misalignmnet problem where the casting port doesn't quite align with the hitch pump moutning plate. I used a new gasket for the hitch pump plate and put a thin layer of RTV on one side to hold it in place, maybe that added thickness which is making it not hold pressure? This is an early 1486 with the open center system. Any guidance would be much appreciated!
  21. I had to bury Max the other day, he was my companion for nearly 13 years. He was up and about until his last day, I couldn't bear to put him down but he spared me that and passed on his bed in the garage with my wife and me by his side the next morning. Thanks for listening, it's great that there are 77 pages of posts on a "dog thread" on an old machinery forum.
  22. I work with Programmable Logic Controllers in my day job and have found that the higher end units from a couple of the German manufacturers which we commonly use are simply not available currently (showing no availability date or something near the end of the year). We're starting to have to redesign proven solutions we deploy for customers to utilize different hardware, which is not a good situation to be in as in some cases we don't get paid for the redesign and recertification!
  23. Aha!!! I discovered the discrepancy with the manual: my machine, even though it has 124 painted on the tinwork, actually has the drive train setup of a 134 which is completely different having a divorced converter/pump drive and transmission. Thanks to @New Englander's lead on the 124 manual I discovered that the seller also reprints manuals for the 134 and I've ordered that. As for the 264 motor, I had suspected that pistons, liners, and possibly bearings might be hard to get which is part of why I am looking to simply replace it. Then again, pretty much any D282 I get will need to be gone though also (though those are easier to get parts for, or at least were as of a few years ago). If I understand @Owen Aaland's comment above, I should be able to take a 282 without the SAE bell housing (maybe one out of a ruined or puller converted tractor?) and swap the gas motor's flywheel and BH onto it. The front mount may have to be fabricated, but I've done that before and somewhat enjoy that sort of thing, actually. I just did a compression test and found #1 has somehow come up to 70# from 30# when I first put the redone head back on, but the others are lower (70-80-80-85-85-75). I think they were in the 90# range (except #1) before. All but two of the plugs were badly oil fowled (the machine has had maybe 20 hours of use since I last cleaned them). Once I get the book that covers this machine's converter/transmission setup I'll have a better idea how I'm going to pull the motor. I have some work to do on my hay equipment when it warms up, then I'll dig into this project!
  24. Thanks @Owen Aaland! That's really useful information. @New Englander I received that manual today but my machine is different! I don't see how: the manual covers both sides of a serial number break but both have the transmission and transfer case as one assembly but my machine has a separate housing on the engine with a drive shaft running to a main housing which is either the transfer case or transmission and transfer case. @SONNY I have history of converting gas rigs to diesel: Years ago I dropped a Cummins 6BT in a late 80s F350, I dropped a 4BT into a full size Bronco, and I completed a '62 F250 Detroit 4-53 swap that someone else had started. It's just what I do. Don't worry, I'll find a worthy home for the gas motor. They aren't making any more of this stuff.
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