Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by chevenstein

  1. I'm in the market for a real welder after using various brands of $50 and $75 buzz boxes bought at auctions and on craigslist for the last ~25 years. I've used a MIG a hand full of times: both a cheapy Lincoln to do some exhaust work and a very heavy duty 3 phase unit with all sorts of knobs and dials briefly at a friend's machine shop when he tried to convince me to dump the stick welders and go MIG. I am essentially starting from 0. I do a surprising amount of fabrication work for a hobby farmer as well as the occasional equipment repair. I'd like to be able to do sheetmetal repairs an
  2. Thanks @TN Hillbilly and @yellowrosefarm I will update the thread when I either get a definitive answer (unlikely), get a ticket (more likely), or finally convince my wife to move a few hours farther south to TN (family drew us up here). We actually almost bought a pretty little farm in northeast TN and for me originally from New York the freedom there was overwhelming! Ah, maybe some day...
  3. That's what I thought. I'd try going back again and again until I got someone who would do what I need but you need an appointment and that takes weeks to get. What a mess. Maybe I can do it by mail - thanks guys!
  4. I am new to Virginia and need some advice on pickup and trailer registrations. I have a pickup registered for 10K lbs, say I want to pull an equipment trailer that grosses 12k with a tractor or skid steer on it. The DMV says I need to register the truck commercially for 20 or 22k. OK, so I try to register the pickup for that and they won't do it because it exceeds the GVWR of the truck. I ask if they mean the GCWR and they say no, they can't do it. ??? So what do you guys who tow utility trailers have for registrations on the pickups in Virginia? How does this actually work?
  5. Not sure of the brand, here's a picture. It has a Carlin oil burner for heat and a 3/4hp Dayton motor on a twin plunger pump and once it gets going (water turns to steam) it'll take the paint off with the grime if you're not careful.
  6. Thanks for the advice guys! I will give it to one of my neighbors. He has been great to live next to and is sad to see us leave, he loves tinkering with old iron as much as I do but is much more thrifty than I am - I bet he'll have this thing working properly in no time. The best part is I will remember the look of surprised joy he'll have when I show up in his driveway with it and some other tools I'm not taking for a long, long time. On the Miller 252 topic, I paid $75 for my big stick welder (craigslist) and $0 (grandpa died) for the little one. I paid $10 for my steam cleaner (whi
  7. I guess I should also point out that I know nothing abut MIG welders - if this thing needs parts to resolve the wire feeding jerkily issue I don't know what those parts would be, what they would cost, or if this is a good MIG setup worth repairing in the first place. I've seen this unit sold or for sale online anywhere from $75 to $400, so I really don't know what it's worth or what I'm dealing with here.
  8. Not sure on the amps - it's 120V input. To be clear, it needs some kind of repair before it will work. The one time I tried it the wire didn't feed very well but it did spark. I do tons of welding but with my two stick welders (which are coming with me).
  9. As you all may recall, I am moving my operation from VT to western VA later this month and I have a welder question for you guys: I inherited this Miller Sidekick MIG setup from my grandfather when he died and I've never used it. I powered it on and tried to draw an arc once but the wire feed got bound up so I didn't get very far. Is this thing worth taking with me and repairing or should I sell it? If I sell it how much should I ask for it? Thanks!
  10. TN Hillbilly we're in the process of buying a place outside Greeneville, which is about 70 miles ENE of Knoxville.
  11. Thanks everyone for the replies and PMs - I've gotten pricing from three of the guys that were suggested (local, small or one man outfits) and I think I'm all set for when the time comes. It will be a lot cheaper to hire this done, even with three truck loads than to buy a truck and do this myself. Doug in NY, to answer your question I have a Case 530, White 2-70, and IH 1486. There is also the Jeep mentioned above, Thomas T133 skid steer, and the old Trojan 124 payloader (with IH power!). I was going to sell the payloader locally but it sounds like it will be cheaper to use it to pull t
  12. Yeah, I've had vehicles and machinery moved in the past and it was hit or miss, one time I got scammed by a broker who would take your money then basically not do anything and ended up having to pay a lot more than would have been reasonable given the timing. I've had some great experiences with a couple of local guys running stuff within the northeast and I've reached out to one, but I don't know if these guys will do ~800 miles one way. As for buying my own rig, that's a great idea it wouldn't be cost effective for my situation. If I had to move half a dozen trailer loads then maybe,
  13. Hi guys, I'm looking for some advice on how to deal with having a bunch of stuff trucked. Almost every time I've dealt with having vehicles or other items shipped I've ended up getting hosed in some way, especially with freight brokers. What is the best way to find someone to haul stuff for you? I posted on Yesterdays Tractors once and did get someone to haul a tractor for me and that worked out OK, but this time I need two or three semi loads of stuff moved. Here's the situation: my wife and I are sick of the high taxes, dumb politics, cold winters, and short growing seasons in VT and a
  14. Hi all - I have a 1486 that the TA does something weird on: it works only when the tractor is hot. The high side works regardless, but when the tractor is cold and you pull the lever it slips and will stop moving if there is any drawbar load. Once it warms up it will pull hard in low (heavy implement up a steep hill in L3 is no problem). I'm sure it's a sign of age and wear and that eventually it will need to be rebuilt, but this mode of failure doesn't make sense to me. I've been using the tractor like this for two seasons now and it hasn't been an issue for me, but I may have to sell i
  15. I built an entire tractor (Case 530) out of chunks of 430, 530, and construction king backhoe salvage machines and some eBay parts by using the old online parts catalog to cross reference various bits and pieces and figure out what I needed. I would not be able to do that today with this site. I tried sending someone who needed help a parts reference from the new site but without the NLA parts it's useless. What is it with people?!? Why is there the perception that change always better? Is CNH deliberately trying to make it more difficult for people to run older machines, or did they ou
  16. +1 If somehow you aren't aware, Joey Barnes, aka the King of Obsolete, is one of the most interesting, resourceful, and capable old iron mechanics you can find online and he makes winter freighting roads up near you too. He normally only works on tractors with steel shoes but from what I've read if you give him some Cheese Whiz you'll get his attention.
  17. Ahhhhhh, I see now. I was looking at that housing thinking the whole thing going back to the tub had to come off, not just the outer part. The part I thought was the piston is actually the whole brake. I feel silly for being so concerned about the best way to work on it, I'll just take it off. Great tip on using the threaded rod for alignment! I forgot about the CIH online parts book too - lots of great pictures there. It seems like when things break during hay season I tear them apart frantically trying to find the part(s) to replace and end up doing it wrong/taking apart way more t
  18. Thanks again! Looking at those brake housings, I have a feeling they're too heavy to handle by hand. Do I need to pull the wheels to get a hoist in there?
  19. No hyd light when pressing brakes, steering continues to work fine. A little seepage out the bleeders when running and no foot on the pedals but not a lot of volume. It sounds like I need to reseal that valve - thanks guys!
  20. The brakes have never been super responsive on my 1486 and now I'd like to try and fix them. They act like they need to be bled - pedals go to the floor and no brakes then suddenly the pedals pop back up and the brakes apply. I've bled a half gallon or so out of each side, closing the bleeder while someone kept the pedal down and they're a little better after that but back to normal (not working) after the tractor sits overnight. Is there a seal or check valve somewhere that's gone bad?
  21. Third the JD 336 baler. I like the pan thrower much better than my old NH 273 had and it's proven to be a reliable, tough machine. I looked at the CIH/NH discbine when I upgraded from a haybine but the European equipment is much better quality construction. I ended up going with the Krone 2800cri and the only complaint I have is it's very heavy, so tight turns will tear the grass up under the wheel that isn't turning as the mower is pulled around. It's also possible to tip it up on end when it's raised if you take a turn too fast on a hillside (ask me how I know that...) but that can b
  22. chevenstein


    Not easily. A long time ago I put a 4BT Cummins in an old Bronco, a 6BT cummins in a late 80s F350, and bought someone else's partway finished Detroit 453 into 62 F250 swap project and finished it. The 6BT barely and I mean barely fit in the F350 - I had to use electric fans on the outside of the radiator due to lack of space. The 4BT had plenty of room but I had to fab some fairly tricky plates to get the engine mounts to land on the frame in a good place (and both trucks has about 50 other little things that had to be engineered to work). the 453 swap was a joke - it sure sounded cool bu
  23. I'm having trouble bleeding the hydraulic brakes on my Torjan 124 payloader and need some advice. It's not an IH, but it's IH powered (264 under the hood) and you guys are smart so I figured I'd ask here. This machine spends most of its time sitting off in the weeds on my hobby farm but occasionally I need to lift something heavier than my Case construction king can lift, knock over a big tree, or dig a big hole (it has a huge backhoe attachment mounted where the counterweight would be). This last time I went to use it the brake pedal went right to the floor. Not surprising - the machi
  24. I didn't think I needed 150hp either, but it's sure nice to have. No noticeable difference in fuel consumption versus my other tractors on the baler and not much to compare it to on the discbine. I'd been looking at 80-100hp tractors and was seeing nicer ones in the $10-12K+ range which was more than I wanted to spend. I found this 1486 by going to look at an open station 806 the guy had for the same money, I tried both and the 1486 just ran a lot nicer so I bought it. I'm not saying to pull a small square baler with a 2+2 (though if it were cheap enough...) but my experience was th
  25. I was in a similar situation this spring (got a discbine and needed a bigger tractor to run it). I'm familiar with some IHs and Whites and thought I got a good deal on a White 2-85 that had had a lot of work done on it. Well, it needed a lot more work and I didn't come to know that until I owned the thing and was mowing with it. Hydraulics slow, lots of leaks, hyd remotes wouldn't hold the mower up, etc. Ended up selling the 2-85 and bought an ugly 1486 for $8500. Best running tractor I've ever owned. AWESOME power with the mower on the steep VT hills here, plenty of weight, TA work
  • Create New...