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chevenstein

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About chevenstein

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    VT

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  1. +1 If somehow you aren't aware, Joey Barnes, aka the King of Obsolete, is one of the most interesting, resourceful, and capable old iron mechanics you can find online and he makes winter freighting roads up near you too. He normally only works on tractors with steel shoes but from what I've read if you give him some Cheese Whiz you'll get his attention.
  2. Ahhhhhh, I see now. I was looking at that housing thinking the whole thing going back to the tub had to come off, not just the outer part. The part I thought was the piston is actually the whole brake. I feel silly for being so concerned about the best way to work on it, I'll just take it off. Great tip on using the threaded rod for alignment! I forgot about the CIH online parts book too - lots of great pictures there. It seems like when things break during hay season I tear them apart frantically trying to find the part(s) to replace and end up doing it wrong/taking apart way more than I needed to/throwing my back out trying to pull something out that looks small ("how heavy can it be??") and having it land in my lap weighing 220#, or worst case I break something prying or putting it together wrong. When I want to fix something preemptively before the season I hem and haw for weeks about the correct way to do a fairly simple repair probably wasting more time thinking about it than actually doing the job!
  3. Thanks again! Looking at those brake housings, I have a feeling they're too heavy to handle by hand. Do I need to pull the wheels to get a hoist in there?
  4. No hyd light when pressing brakes, steering continues to work fine. A little seepage out the bleeders when running and no foot on the pedals but not a lot of volume. It sounds like I need to reseal that valve - thanks guys!
  5. The brakes have never been super responsive on my 1486 and now I'd like to try and fix them. They act like they need to be bled - pedals go to the floor and no brakes then suddenly the pedals pop back up and the brakes apply. I've bled a half gallon or so out of each side, closing the bleeder while someone kept the pedal down and they're a little better after that but back to normal (not working) after the tractor sits overnight. Is there a seal or check valve somewhere that's gone bad?
  6. Third the JD 336 baler. I like the pan thrower much better than my old NH 273 had and it's proven to be a reliable, tough machine. I looked at the CIH/NH discbine when I upgraded from a haybine but the European equipment is much better quality construction. I ended up going with the Krone 2800cri and the only complaint I have is it's very heavy, so tight turns will tear the grass up under the wheel that isn't turning as the mower is pulled around. It's also possible to tip it up on end when it's raised if you take a turn too fast on a hillside (ask me how I know that...) but that can be avoided by not going too fast. Specifically, the frame is made out of very heavy steel, the turtles have shear pins and will pop off the hubs before you tear up the gears, and the way the mower head moves back and up instead of just up when you hit a rock seems to handle the occasional rock or groundhog hole collision well. My neighbor has a CIH discbine, not sure of the model, but next to my Krone it's built like a toy. I have an older Taarup rake, which is the same as the modern Kubota rotary rakes (they apparently bought out the line from Kverneland). I would think any rotary rake is better than an old rollover, I'm pretty happy with this one. I had to modify it with a wider diameter lift cylinder to be able to rake with my older tractors (I have a few Case 430 and 530s). Don't get a rotary rake that's too wide if you have bumpy or uneven ground else you'll bottom the tines out and that breaks the arms after a while. I ted with an old Fahr four star unit, I'm looking at upgrading to a newer one with hydraulic fold soon and will likely get a Krone 5.52t (~19 feet wide, 4 stars, hyd fold). Like the discbine, the Krone hardware is unbelievably well built. That little 5.52 tedder weighs about 1500 pounds! I have a mix match of different running gear from Case, Gehl, and NH under mostly steel racks. Steel with a pressure treated floor has served me well. My big tractors are an IH 1486 and White 2-70, I like the IH for mowing (POWER!!!) and the White for baling due to the 3 speed power shift. The case 430 and 530s I have are great for raking and tedding because they're so small and light (less compaction). The diesel 530 can just barely handle the baler but I sure wouldn't take it on a hill! That's my setup anyway, I hope the info helps and good luck!
  7. chevenstein

    DV-800

    Not easily. A long time ago I put a 4BT Cummins in an old Bronco, a 6BT cummins in a late 80s F350, and bought someone else's partway finished Detroit 453 into 62 F250 swap project and finished it. The 6BT barely and I mean barely fit in the F350 - I had to use electric fans on the outside of the radiator due to lack of space. The 4BT had plenty of room but I had to fab some fairly tricky plates to get the engine mounts to land on the frame in a good place (and both trucks has about 50 other little things that had to be engineered to work). the 453 swap was a joke - it sure sounded cool but that truck could barely keep up with traffic on the Interstate and that was with an overdrive transmission and the pedal pretty much on the floor. I don't regret doing those projects but they burned a lot of money and other than the F350 weren't too practical. The F350 was a great truck but I could have had a lot more truck for the money had I just bought a newer stock F350. As for the cement truck axles, forget about it. They will be set up for air brakes and will require a completely custom suspension and steering setup to use on a pickup - you would essentially be making a monster truck in the style of the original ones made out of 5 ton army trucks in the 70s. If this is me now talking to me 20 years ago, I would tell me to focus on a nice factory restoration for a truck or tractor that will be used and to stick to worn out (cheap) equipment to make off road experiments with. I actually had someone offer me a couple of old IH trucks and a Hough loader to do something like that with when I was about 17 and I really should have taken him up on it. Instead that stuff got cut up for scrap and I blew probably $20,000+ on the Cummins and Detroit swaps in my early 20s. To think if I'd put that money in the stock market then what it would be worth today...
  8. I'm having trouble bleeding the hydraulic brakes on my Torjan 124 payloader and need some advice. It's not an IH, but it's IH powered (264 under the hood) and you guys are smart so I figured I'd ask here. This machine spends most of its time sitting off in the weeds on my hobby farm but occasionally I need to lift something heavier than my Case construction king can lift, knock over a big tree, or dig a big hole (it has a huge backhoe attachment mounted where the counterweight would be). This last time I went to use it the brake pedal went right to the floor. Not surprising - the machine had sat for a year. I fill the reservoir and crack the bleeders on all four wheels plus the vacuum booster and fluid comes out. I pump the pedal to see if it's ready to get the wife to pump and hold while I open and close the bleeders but there is still no resistance. My question is, is this as simple as the master cylinder having failed or is there some trick to bleeding this type of system with the external vacuum booster that I don't know? I've bled brakes dozens of times on cars and light trucks and never had the symptom where it never starts to build pressure even after fluid is coming out the wheel cylinders or calipers.
  9. I didn't think I needed 150hp either, but it's sure nice to have. No noticeable difference in fuel consumption versus my other tractors on the baler and not much to compare it to on the discbine. I'd been looking at 80-100hp tractors and was seeing nicer ones in the $10-12K+ range which was more than I wanted to spend. I found this 1486 by going to look at an open station 806 the guy had for the same money, I tried both and the 1486 just ran a lot nicer so I bought it. I'm not saying to pull a small square baler with a 2+2 (though if it were cheap enough...) but my experience was that I ended up with a machine I really liked by not sticking strictly to the criteria I'd set out with.
  10. I was in a similar situation this spring (got a discbine and needed a bigger tractor to run it). I'm familiar with some IHs and Whites and thought I got a good deal on a White 2-85 that had had a lot of work done on it. Well, it needed a lot more work and I didn't come to know that until I owned the thing and was mowing with it. Hydraulics slow, lots of leaks, hyd remotes wouldn't hold the mower up, etc. Ended up selling the 2-85 and bought an ugly 1486 for $8500. Best running tractor I've ever owned. AWESOME power with the mower on the steep VT hills here, plenty of weight, TA works nice (didn't when I got it but changing the hyd oil and filter made it start working somehow). Now that it has proven itself I'm slowly fixing the cab up - with replacing the broken windows and interior foam I can run it without ear plugs which is nice. Next to tackle is the A/C.
  11. Thanks guys. I looked at and am going to pass on those tractors at MacFaddens. On the way back I looked at one of the CL links (the 1206) that was posted and I had missed before, that's a nice working tractor and I like it. I'll probably buy it (got to get rid of a problem White I was going to trade at MacFadden's first). On the PA tractors, remember that I'm in VT, not central NY. For me PA is at minimum a 4.5 hour drive and most places in the state are closer to 6-8. At that distance it's not much more expensive/time consuming to be buying something from halfway across the country. Thanks again, all.
  12. I've bout a few things from MacFaddens, a few good experiences and one bad. Like anything else, you get what you pay for. MacFaddens buys stuff people don't want for some reason so you just have to keep that in mind. Thanks for the links, the other day I looked at every tractor on CL and a few other places within 200 miles (probably looked at 600 tractor ads) and the ones that struck my fancy were either all sold, the seller never responded, or there was something else off about them. I had somehow missed that 1066 though, I'll see if he's still got it.
  13. Where? I drool over the tractors you have out your way, but by the time I've paid to haul something like that east I'm into it another 1500-2K. Plus, buying something like this from the midwest or west requires either buying it sight unseen (did that once, got a lemon) or flying out there and looking at it which is easily another 800-1200 by the time I've paid for airfare, hotel, rental car, etc. Most of the equipment here in the northeast is either beat to **** or overpriced. That's just the way it is. The y're asking $12,500 for the 1256 and it won't cost me much to get it home, so to me that's worth it even if there's a pristine 1086 with a good cab in Iowa for $10K.
  14. @IHCfarmer: ironically, my two little tractors which I use for raking/tedding/small chores are a Case 430 and 530, both industrials and one with a loader. They're some of the most reliable, easiest to work on machines I've ever owned. I briefly considered looking for a 930 or 1030 to do my mowing/baling but I want something with at least one powershift gear and no, I won't touch the case-o-matic setup.
  15. Thanks guys. I'll post back which direction I go.
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