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chevenstein

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About chevenstein

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    VT

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  1. I'm having trouble bleeding the hydraulic brakes on my Torjan 124 payloader and need some advice. It's not an IH, but it's IH powered (264 under the hood) and you guys are smart so I figured I'd ask here. This machine spends most of its time sitting off in the weeds on my hobby farm but occasionally I need to lift something heavier than my Case construction king can lift, knock over a big tree, or dig a big hole (it has a huge backhoe attachment mounted where the counterweight would be). This last time I went to use it the brake pedal went right to the floor. Not surprising - the machine had sat for a year. I fill the reservoir and crack the bleeders on all four wheels plus the vacuum booster and fluid comes out. I pump the pedal to see if it's ready to get the wife to pump and hold while I open and close the bleeders but there is still no resistance. My question is, is this as simple as the master cylinder having failed or is there some trick to bleeding this type of system with the external vacuum booster that I don't know? I've bled brakes dozens of times on cars and light trucks and never had the symptom where it never starts to build pressure even after fluid is coming out the wheel cylinders or calipers.
  2. I didn't think I needed 150hp either, but it's sure nice to have. No noticeable difference in fuel consumption versus my other tractors on the baler and not much to compare it to on the discbine. I'd been looking at 80-100hp tractors and was seeing nicer ones in the $10-12K+ range which was more than I wanted to spend. I found this 1486 by going to look at an open station 806 the guy had for the same money, I tried both and the 1486 just ran a lot nicer so I bought it. I'm not saying to pull a small square baler with a 2+2 (though if it were cheap enough...) but my experience was that I ended up with a machine I really liked by not sticking strictly to the criteria I'd set out with.
  3. I was in a similar situation this spring (got a discbine and needed a bigger tractor to run it). I'm familiar with some IHs and Whites and thought I got a good deal on a White 2-85 that had had a lot of work done on it. Well, it needed a lot more work and I didn't come to know that until I owned the thing and was mowing with it. Hydraulics slow, lots of leaks, hyd remotes wouldn't hold the mower up, etc. Ended up selling the 2-85 and bought an ugly 1486 for $8500. Best running tractor I've ever owned. AWESOME power with the mower on the steep VT hills here, plenty of weight, TA works nice (didn't when I got it but changing the hyd oil and filter made it start working somehow). Now that it has proven itself I'm slowly fixing the cab up - with replacing the broken windows and interior foam I can run it without ear plugs which is nice. Next to tackle is the A/C.
  4. Thanks guys. I looked at and am going to pass on those tractors at MacFaddens. On the way back I looked at one of the CL links (the 1206) that was posted and I had missed before, that's a nice working tractor and I like it. I'll probably buy it (got to get rid of a problem White I was going to trade at MacFadden's first). On the PA tractors, remember that I'm in VT, not central NY. For me PA is at minimum a 4.5 hour drive and most places in the state are closer to 6-8. At that distance it's not much more expensive/time consuming to be buying something from halfway across the country. Thanks again, all.
  5. I've bout a few things from MacFaddens, a few good experiences and one bad. Like anything else, you get what you pay for. MacFaddens buys stuff people don't want for some reason so you just have to keep that in mind. Thanks for the links, the other day I looked at every tractor on CL and a few other places within 200 miles (probably looked at 600 tractor ads) and the ones that struck my fancy were either all sold, the seller never responded, or there was something else off about them. I had somehow missed that 1066 though, I'll see if he's still got it.
  6. Where? I drool over the tractors you have out your way, but by the time I've paid to haul something like that east I'm into it another 1500-2K. Plus, buying something like this from the midwest or west requires either buying it sight unseen (did that once, got a lemon) or flying out there and looking at it which is easily another 800-1200 by the time I've paid for airfare, hotel, rental car, etc. Most of the equipment here in the northeast is either beat to **** or overpriced. That's just the way it is. The y're asking $12,500 for the 1256 and it won't cost me much to get it home, so to me that's worth it even if there's a pristine 1086 with a good cab in Iowa for $10K.
  7. @IHCfarmer: ironically, my two little tractors which I use for raking/tedding/small chores are a Case 430 and 530, both industrials and one with a loader. They're some of the most reliable, easiest to work on machines I've ever owned. I briefly considered looking for a 930 or 1030 to do my mowing/baling but I want something with at least one powershift gear and no, I won't touch the case-o-matic setup.
  8. Thanks guys. I'll post back which direction I go.
  9. It is, do you know anything about it?
  10. I should be a little more specific: the 1896 is open station (actually a cab missing the glass) and while the hours are low, it looks like it has been neglected. The 1256 has a fresh paint job and no obvious leaks or worn external components. I agree that the 1896 is a technologically much more advanced machine but that also gives me pause: I've split and done clutches, etc, in tractors similar to the 1256 and would feel comfortable tackling most issues it could have including replacing the TA, but that 1896 is scary to me. If the power shift goes out I will be at the mercy of someone else to repair it and my little hobby hay operation can't afford that.
  11. Given the choice between a good looking IH 1256 with a bad TA (no low range) and a low hour (~2100) CIH 1896 for running a discbine and small square baler on hilly ground, which would you go with? They're both about the same money but the 1256 has about 5500 hours on it. I'm going to go try both out later this week and need to make up my mind. Sure, I'll try out all gears on both, listen for funny noises, check for blow by, ask to hook both up to a mower or disc or something and verify that the hydraulics can lift the implement at idle with the machine warmed up. Anything else to check on these particular models? Assuming everything checks out on both, what would sway you to pick one over the other? I'm looking at these particular machines because anything smaller is not stable on my slopes with my Krone mower behind it and anything bigger is just silly (a friend suggested I look at a White 2-180 that's local but that would be like towing a water skier with a battleship). Thanks!
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