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chevenstein

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  1. I'm in the market for a real welder after using various brands of $50 and $75 buzz boxes bought at auctions and on craigslist for the last ~25 years. I've used a MIG a hand full of times: both a cheapy Lincoln to do some exhaust work and a very heavy duty 3 phase unit with all sorts of knobs and dials briefly at a friend's machine shop when he tried to convince me to dump the stick welders and go MIG. I am essentially starting from 0. I do a surprising amount of fabrication work for a hobby farmer as well as the occasional equipment repair. I'd like to be able to do sheetmetal repairs and to more easily lay down heavy beads on 1/4 - 3/8" plate steel as well as light and heavier thicknesses of angle and channel iron. You guys recommended the Miller 252 to me a few months back but I about fell out of my seat when I saw the price tag. I know Miller makes the lower cost Hobart products and see that they're retiring the Ironman 230 with the 240 model. Are either of these Hobart machines worth having at half the price of the Miller 252 and if so, should I try and get a closeout deal on a 230 and go with a 240? If I buy any of these I assume I want to use CO2 for shielding gas, what type of wire should I get? Will I need different types of wire to weld different thicknesses of steel? I know that with the spool gun accessory all of these machines will weld aluminum, that kind of blows my mind so let's stick to getting me started with MIG on steel for now. Thanks!
  2. Thanks @TN Hillbilly and @yellowrosefarm I will update the thread when I either get a definitive answer (unlikely), get a ticket (more likely), or finally convince my wife to move a few hours farther south to TN (family drew us up here). We actually almost bought a pretty little farm in northeast TN and for me originally from New York the freedom there was overwhelming! Ah, maybe some day...
  3. That's what I thought. I'd try going back again and again until I got someone who would do what I need but you need an appointment and that takes weeks to get. What a mess. Maybe I can do it by mail - thanks guys!
  4. I am new to Virginia and need some advice on pickup and trailer registrations. I have a pickup registered for 10K lbs, say I want to pull an equipment trailer that grosses 12k with a tractor or skid steer on it. The DMV says I need to register the truck commercially for 20 or 22k. OK, so I try to register the pickup for that and they won't do it because it exceeds the GVWR of the truck. I ask if they mean the GCWR and they say no, they can't do it. ??? So what do you guys who tow utility trailers have for registrations on the pickups in Virginia? How does this actually work?
  5. Not sure of the brand, here's a picture. It has a Carlin oil burner for heat and a 3/4hp Dayton motor on a twin plunger pump and once it gets going (water turns to steam) it'll take the paint off with the grime if you're not careful.
  6. Thanks for the advice guys! I will give it to one of my neighbors. He has been great to live next to and is sad to see us leave, he loves tinkering with old iron as much as I do but is much more thrifty than I am - I bet he'll have this thing working properly in no time. The best part is I will remember the look of surprised joy he'll have when I show up in his driveway with it and some other tools I'm not taking for a long, long time. On the Miller 252 topic, I paid $75 for my big stick welder (craigslist) and $0 (grandpa died) for the little one. I paid $10 for my steam cleaner (which looks like a pile of scrap metal but works AWESOME), $25 for my PTO 15 kW generator that has been super handy, and $80 for my 70 year old Brenner 2hp repulsion-induction air compressor that works just fine, thank you (all at auctions). Most of my good hand tools came from $5-20 auction mixed tool lot in a milk crate buys that had some Mac/Snap-On/old Craftsman tools in the bottom so the thought of spending $3k on a welder makes my head spin. I'll be the first (after my wife) to admit that I'm an astoundingly cheap SOB when I can stroke a check for a brand new discbine then hem and haw about spending the $$ for quality baler twine in the same haying season, but for some reason I just don't feel like I'd be getting good value spending that on a new $3k welder. I guess it's like the discbine: I was sick of fixing the NH 479 every time I cut hay and used discbines seemed like a bad investment so a quality new machine is the only way to not have an annoying problem for a long, long time but it's a tough sum to pay upfront and the depreciation'll make you cry.
  7. I guess I should also point out that I know nothing abut MIG welders - if this thing needs parts to resolve the wire feeding jerkily issue I don't know what those parts would be, what they would cost, or if this is a good MIG setup worth repairing in the first place. I've seen this unit sold or for sale online anywhere from $75 to $400, so I really don't know what it's worth or what I'm dealing with here.
  8. Not sure on the amps - it's 120V input. To be clear, it needs some kind of repair before it will work. The one time I tried it the wire didn't feed very well but it did spark. I do tons of welding but with my two stick welders (which are coming with me).
  9. As you all may recall, I am moving my operation from VT to western VA later this month and I have a welder question for you guys: I inherited this Miller Sidekick MIG setup from my grandfather when he died and I've never used it. I powered it on and tried to draw an arc once but the wire feed got bound up so I didn't get very far. Is this thing worth taking with me and repairing or should I sell it? If I sell it how much should I ask for it? Thanks!
  10. TN Hillbilly we're in the process of buying a place outside Greeneville, which is about 70 miles ENE of Knoxville.
  11. Thanks everyone for the replies and PMs - I've gotten pricing from three of the guys that were suggested (local, small or one man outfits) and I think I'm all set for when the time comes. It will be a lot cheaper to hire this done, even with three truck loads than to buy a truck and do this myself. Doug in NY, to answer your question I have a Case 530, White 2-70, and IH 1486. There is also the Jeep mentioned above, Thomas T133 skid steer, and the old Trojan 124 payloader (with IH power!). I was going to sell the payloader locally but it sounds like it will be cheaper to use it to pull the container onto the third trailer, have it go along for the ride, then use it to push the container off than to sell it here and have to hire someone with a machine to handle the container when I get down south (or to hire a rollback or Landol to move the container). Besides, I get to keep the payloader this way! For anyone else looking at this, definitely find a guy with a semi or small company (three guys with semis!) and work with them. In the past I've gotten broker quotes to move a single tractor or pickup truck for not much farther for MORE than I will pay per semi load. I will never ever ever even consider using a broker again.
  12. Yeah, I've had vehicles and machinery moved in the past and it was hit or miss, one time I got scammed by a broker who would take your money then basically not do anything and ended up having to pay a lot more than would have been reasonable given the timing. I've had some great experiences with a couple of local guys running stuff within the northeast and I've reached out to one, but I don't know if these guys will do ~800 miles one way. As for buying my own rig, that's a great idea it wouldn't be cost effective for my situation. If I had to move half a dozen trailer loads then maybe, but for two I can't justify it.
  13. Hi guys, I'm looking for some advice on how to deal with having a bunch of stuff trucked. Almost every time I've dealt with having vehicles or other items shipped I've ended up getting hosed in some way, especially with freight brokers. What is the best way to find someone to haul stuff for you? I posted on Yesterdays Tractors once and did get someone to haul a tractor for me and that worked out OK, but this time I need two or three semi loads of stuff moved. Here's the situation: my wife and I are sick of the high taxes, dumb politics, cold winters, and short growing seasons in VT and are in the process of buying a similar place to what we have now in northeastern TN. I've sold off almost all of the equipment I'm not taking with me but still have three farm tractors, a skid steer, '76 Jeep CJ5, and a few 3pt implements that I just can't part with. Plus we're putting all of our stuff from the house and my shop tools into a 20 shipping container. I figure the tractors, Jeep, and implements will fill two semi flat beds (will need ramps to drive the stuff on/off) and ideally the container goes on a roll back or Landol type trailer. Do I just brace for BS and start calling freight brokers? Is there a place to post this sort of job? Thanks!
  14. Hi all - I have a 1486 that the TA does something weird on: it works only when the tractor is hot. The high side works regardless, but when the tractor is cold and you pull the lever it slips and will stop moving if there is any drawbar load. Once it warms up it will pull hard in low (heavy implement up a steep hill in L3 is no problem). I'm sure it's a sign of age and wear and that eventually it will need to be rebuilt, but this mode of failure doesn't make sense to me. I've been using the tractor like this for two seasons now and it hasn't been an issue for me, but I may have to sell it soon and I want to be as transparent as I can be with prospective buyers who I'm sure will ask more about this. Anything that this behavior indicates might be useful to know and to tell them. Alternatively, if this points to something I can change without tearing the tractor down which will fix it that would be cool too (however unlikely!). Thanks!
  15. I built an entire tractor (Case 530) out of chunks of 430, 530, and construction king backhoe salvage machines and some eBay parts by using the old online parts catalog to cross reference various bits and pieces and figure out what I needed. I would not be able to do that today with this site. I tried sending someone who needed help a parts reference from the new site but without the NLA parts it's useless. What is it with people?!? Why is there the perception that change always better? Is CNH deliberately trying to make it more difficult for people to run older machines, or did they outsource the parts website out to a bunch of kids who think functions have to change every year or it's not the best and have never wrenched on an old piece of equipment in their life? I was p---ed off when Ford stopped putting the head light dimmer switch on the floorboards of their pickup trucks in '92 - I'm still not used to it being on the turn signal. Most changes to ag and on highway equipment in the lst 30 years horrify me, but simple things like limited access to information are over-the-top aggravating.
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