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Everything posted by Nebraska1206

  1. So I went to the Reliance parts page thru CaseIH, and they show having a cam bearing set on hand for a 544 w/ a C200 gas engine. Reliance p/n RP241225X.
  2. I'm guessing that your 806 has the longer oil cooler, in which case, a late model DT361 oil cooler won't be a direct swap, without changing the rear oil cooler header & oil pump/filter plumbing. I'm not 100% that even just swapping rear oil cooler headers is a possibility between the early & late 361 blocks, I want to say the mounting is different, but I can't swear to it, because I've never done it.
  3. Oooh, love the polishing of the intercooler housings!! Very nice! Eisenmann Supplies in Madison, NE might have the intercooler plumbing pieces you're looking for, they've pulled several DTI466's from early 1680 combines & have stripped down a few of those engines.
  4. I don't know how I missed this project, but this is extremely awesome!!
  5. Rough guess, but those wheel castings alone aren't as heavy as you think. They're maybe 250-300 lbs a piece? I know on a larger 06/56/66 series, going from 38" wedgelock centers to steel pressed isn't a 1000 lb weight loss.
  6. Can you run your 16.9-38's on a wider rim, say a 16x38 rim normally used for 18.4-38's? If so, that's the route I'd go, 16x38 nine-bolt dual rims should be readily available.
  7. Conventional, as far as I know. I don't have any on the shelf at work to look at, myself.
  8. 73344254 is the CNH part number I have for the Pennzoil 30w low ash equivalent, available in quart bottles only
  9. I should add, if you're looking for the little bushing that goes inside, for the transmission cross shaft, that you can still order from IH, part number 398274R1
  10. With the HyCap kit, the bushing is no longer used, the collars fit directly on the shaft.
  11. Should be able to loosen the clamps on the turbo assembly and rotate the turbo center section to line up with the drain as necessary.
  12. Reliance is indeed sending the piston/sleeves/rings all pre-installed, however, for the sake of my own sanity, I'll pull the pistons all the way out of the sleeves. For one, the last one I did was a DT407, of which there's no choice but to do that in order to correctly install the sleeves. Two, the end gap on every single piston ring was lined up in a row on every piston. Those of us who've overhauled enough engines know that you stagger the ring gaps on the pistons. I've heard from others who received Reliance kits where all the piston ring gaps were lined up on the piston.
  13. No, the engine serial number did not match the tractor serial number
  14. The 407 block went through 4 casting variations. The C1 was the first version, and is the easiest to identify, by the 5 recessed areas in the block on the RH side of the block. The possibility of the casting cracking internally and dumping antifreeze in the oil pan was the reason there was an IH service bulletin issued to replace failed C1 blocks. The C2 block was the next version, and is very common to most 856's & 1256's. C2's are quite common, and were a good production block. The C3 block was the 3rd version, and had a higher nickel content than the C2 block. From what I've seen, most C3 blocks were factory replacement blocks for failed C1 blocks. If you see a C3 block, and there's nothing stamped in the pad for a block model & serial number, chances are it was a replacement block, and the dealer that replaced it forgot to transfer the serial number over from the original failed block. The C4 block was the final variation of the 407, and is the most sought after, as it's the strongest and also has a very high nickel content of all 407 blocks (although some will argue that a C3 is still just as good, if not better). The C4 was introduced at the very end of 1256 production, but would be the only block version seen in the 1456's and 1026 Hydro's from factory. The 856 & 1256 could have had all four versions, depending on when they left the factory.
  15. The use of D, DT, and TT to designate naturally aspirated versus turbocharged engines from IH got a little confusing, because IH switched up the way they designated & stamped the blocks with the introduction of the 56 series tractors. Prior to that, a 361 block was stamped D361 for an 806, and DT361 for a 1206. When they went to the 56 series, that all changed. Now a block stamped 407DT was a naturally aspirated block for an 856, and a block stamped 407TT was a turbocharged block for a 1256. This new method continued throughout IH with their engine production. A lot of people aren't aware of this change, and mistake a lot of naturally aspirated 407 blocks for turbocharged blocks.
  16. The PTO engagement lever is also on the RH side of the seat, as you are seated on the tractor. Pushing it forward will engage the PTO, should be a notch in that slot that will retain the lever in the forward position
  17. That setup will interfere with the current air cleaner on a 706, since its currently mounted right where that exhaust elbow would want to be. Not sure how you'd want to go about relocating the air cleaner, probably have to customize something. A 560 dry-type air cleaner was mounted on top of the hood, right in front of the operator, if that was added in addition to the turbo setup.
  18. I wonder if the muffler eliminator pipes for a 1086 could be reworked to put your exhaust back out the existing hole in the hood? The exhaust pipe on earlier 86 series was 3", that's the same size as a 766 was originally.
  19. Agreed. We've updated a few of ours for the sake of that reliability. All it takes is for one park lock fail & a runaway to make this update well worth it.
  20. Yep, here's a picture of the 64578C91 park lock update kit
  21. That looks like the updated piece for the park lock kit 64578C91, which makes your park lock like an 86 series tractor, and puts the spring underneath the range cover to positively engage the pawl into the gear when you place the park lever down, no adjustable linkage above the cover anymore.
  22. I've seen a few of those in frost plug holes over the years. Takes a slide hammer to get them out, usually. Once its out you can replace it with a 106725A1 frost plug heater.
  23. Nothing back there, just the gasket. I usually apply a little Permatex gasket maker #2 on both sides of the gasket, around that opening, just for my own peace of mind.
  24. Fair Valley Performance had a nice kit listed on their website to put a smaller SX200 on a 361/407, that looked to be a nice setup. I haven't looked into it much further, haven't needed a turbo on any of mine for a while.
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