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Everything posted by Nebraska1206

  1. Possible, but my line of thinking says they'd rather take a chance on a 71xx, 72xx, or 89xx Series Magnum, or another model that had a significant production run & has good parts availability, rather than one that's rare & has unique parts to that tractor only. Hydraulic filters for a 7288 or 7488 come to mind. Try finding replacements for those....
  2. I have a CNH head gasket set for a D282 on the shelf, p/n 134403A1, and the head gasket inside is a FelPro, I just checked it. Also have just the individual head gasket, p/n 134400A1, and it too is stamped FelPro.
  3. Looks like its all there, just the cable is broke.
  4. #4 is on the shutoff arm of your injection pump. It is what the bare end of the shutoff cable goes into, so when you pull the knob on the opposite end, it pulls back the arm & shuts the tractor off.
  5. I managed to latch onto that tool many years ago when the old dealership closed. No one else really knew what it was. It's in a drawer out @ the farm shop now.
  6. I question those silver rims. The offset of an IH rim tended to be different than most, so unless an aftermarket rim is built for an IH, you'll run into problems exactly like this. A correct IH 10x16 rim is 1.875" negative offset.
  7. I suppose you could. I don't recommend it, but as long as that leaves you enough threads to get the nut on the end of the spindle to tighten up the outer wheel bearing & get a cotter pin in to secure it, I suppose you could give it a try. Never done it or tried it. Haven't had a reason to, even that time with those other tires. A spacer wouldn't have done it there.
  8. I've encountered that, where certain tires would want to rub on the steering stop blocks. Its the differences in tires, different manufacturers. I had an awesome looking set of 3-rib 11.00-16's I wanted to put on my 1256, but couldn't, they hit the steering stops bad, couldn't even get the wheel on the hub. Went to a 4 rib 11.00-16, and no problems. Same IH rim, just a different tire, different manufacturer.
  9. In my opinion, this is one of the greatest builds that I've been able to read & follow on this forum! Well done sir, this thing is great! Love the test drives & burnouts in the grass!!
  10. Pretty sure a 358 block is a taller deck block than a 310, and that the two are different
  11. That wear sleeve does indeed install in the backside of the front wheel hubs, for the grease seal to ride on. Looks to me, the old wear sleeve is still inside your hubs. You'd have to remove your old wear sleeve, if you want to use the new ones.
  12. Two of a 104809C1 & one of a 104053C1 are the ISO mount bushings you need
  13. Here's the couplers I was talking about, on the back of my 1026 Hydro. Fit perfectly in the original IH holders, and are one-handed push/pull
  14. Seems like there's always a good used D310 that comes available from a combine or cotton picker. Of course, that all depends on location, but I see them listed ever so often on various Facebook pages, and every now & then on BigIron. The D310 was a rather popular engine for IH, so there are parts around there for them.
  15. If you have the two-piece aluminum breakaway holders for your original Pioneer couplers, CaseIH p/n A177478 will work as a new style push/pull coupler, and will fit perfectly in your original breakaway clamps. I put these on a lot of my tractors, for one-handed coupling of hydraulic hoses.
  16. I recall seeing that one advertised, tractor looked pretty straight, the big rear tires are what caught my eye.
  17. So originally, an 826's hydraulic couplers would have been the Pioneer type female couplers. There would have originally been hoses that ran from the check valve blocks, down to the couplers themselves that were held in by a two-piece aluminum bracket, to give the couplers a breakaway, in the event that an implement came unhooked, so the hydraulic hoses would uncouple, rather than rip and tear. At some point, it appears your 826 was converted to the IH coupler blocks that are common to 66/86 series tractors. I'm guessing, at that time, the check valve block was removed from the RH valve/remote outlets. I've removed that check valve block as well from my 1256, many years ago. Have several of them laying in the spare parts shed. The use of the steel hydraulic lines to the IH coupler blocks intrigues me, I'm wondering what application those lines were for? I'm thinking late 656/666/686, but I'm not certain.
  18. This by chance the 856 narrow front w/ a boom, that was advertised on Facebook, had a bad 301 gas engine? 23.1-34 rear rubber?
  19. I'd open the bottoms of the cans, and leave them on there, like a wrap!
  20. They do make a frost plug heater, part number 106725A1. All of my 361 & 407 powered tractors have this frost plug heater on them.
  21. The only real damage is if there's no raincap or cover over top of the straight pipe, and the tractor is left outside exposed to the elements, and moisture is allowed to run down the pipe, into the manifold, and then in turn into whatever exhaust valves are open at that time.
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