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Posts posted by lbg57

  1. What is the reason that processors are so backed up? I remember years ago the folks calling in a couple weeks to schedule it. Is it because their are less butchers or are their just so many more people now wanting meat off the hoof.

  2. Years ago when we would buy a quarter or a half of beef from a farmer, we were responsible for the cost of cutting, & wrapping. The producer was responsible for the slaughtering.

    That was several years ago. We recently bought a quarter from a local farmer for an agreed on price per pound of hanging weight  and was told we had to pay for the butchering and wrapping which I thought meant cutting & wrapping. When we picked it up the bill had a cost for cutting and wrapping and also a cost for slaughtering.

    I was raised on a farm and butchering & cutting were one and the same and slaughtering is the actual killing, and quartering. 

    I know this sounds like a dumb question but could someone shed some light on this? Thanks. 

  3. I am looking for a MD rear crankshaft seal like the attached pictures. 

    I am looking for the aftermarket rubber (??) one like this one I took out. It has absolutely no name, number, markings anywhere.

    The old felt seal P/N was 260 001 R2.

    I did a google search with no luck.

    Does anyone have a lead as to where I could source one? Thanks.



  4. The color of the smoke is grey.


    I checked the pump timing again and it is set to the center mark per the service manual. I have also double checked the flappers and they are seating properly. The valves are all new along with the seats and guides and move freely when pushed down when engine is off. 




  5. Finally got the MD I have been working on for several years started & running. 

    Runs on the gas side fine, no smoke at all.

    When switching over to diesel, it runs but smokes a lot. At about 1/4 open it runs ok but their is a fair amount of smoke. You open it up quickly from 1/4 throttle to WOT and it smokes like a coal freight train for a few seconds then backs off some on the smoke but still a lot.

    The injection pump and injectors have been gone through by Central Fuel Injection and has been sitting in a box for the last 5 years.

    Air is all bled out of the lines and the pump timing is set at the center mark on the drive gear per the manual. When running and I crack open the injector bleeder it misses bad so the injector should be working correctly, right?

    Any ideas as to why it is smoking so much? Is it something in the pump that is not quit right? If I try to adjust the pump timing to either side of the center mark would that clear it up or is their another direction you think I should proceed with this? Thanks.

  6. Well guys I finally got it to run on the gas side. That magneto I bought off eBay that was supposed to be completely rebuilt turned out to be a POS. 

    I had gotten another off eBay as a spare that the guy said worked when taken off. Was not rebuilt or any new parts. Put that one on & it took right off. Finally.

    I will see about sending that other one out for repair if I can find someone who still does that.

    Tried switching it over to diesel but all it would do is smoke up the garage and not stay running. One step at a time.

    Thanks for everyone's help. Have a good day.

    • Like 1
  7. 12_Guy:  The mag not producing a good spark is what I am leaning to also as all the other settings are per the manual. I will have to try and find some place that works on mags to check it out. Thanks.

    R Pope: Yes the mag is the correct H-4, counter clockwise rotation, for the diesel. The new wiring harness was made for the magneto system so I would prefer to leave it as such but will have the mag checked by someone for output. Thanks.

    beekeep15: I have checked the plug wires before but will check them again to be certain. I do have the correct H-4, counter clockwise rotating mag for the diesel and is turning the correct rotation. Thanks.

  8. I have been in this MD restoration for  the last 11 years. Work/family issues have dragged it out this long. Have been in the assembly stage for the last year. I am at the point of trying to start it but no go. It had a battery ignition on it and ran fine before tear down. I wanted to put it back to original and converted it to a magneto ignition like my others with a rebuilt mag I bought off eBay 5 years ago. Following is a list of things that I have checked and double checked.

    1) Double checked the timing marks on the gear train by the assembly photo I took before putting the front cover on, all right on.

    2) Pulled mag drive off to check timing, was right on.

    3) Checked mag timing 3 times. Mag tripped on #1 cylinder when on the "M" mark on the pully, not 9/16" past "M" as per what the manual stated. Adjusted to 9/16" past "M" but no difference.

    4) Checked spark on all cylinders with an inline spark checker, it made it light.

    5) Took plugs out, grounded them, turned it over, it produced a small bluish spark.

    6) Took carb off. Float & needle move. Lifts needle off seat. Float height is correct.

    7) Checked all start linkage adjustments 3 times. All correct.

    Checked start valve clearances, all right on.

    9) Double checked valve timing and clearances, all good.

    10)  Manifold butterflies are working properly.

    I loosened the injector nuts to be sure their was no diesel going to the cylinders. As much as I do not like using starting fluid, I did loosen the intake crossover pipe and shot some directly in their while turning it over. Not even a pop. 

    When turning it over on gas, it spins over quickly and almost wants to take off. Their is blackish smoke coming from the exhaust, turns white when either is shot in and returns to blackish when spinning over.  

    When I pulled the plugs they are black soot covered. I have cleaned them and rechecked the gap a few times. Gap was right. Plugs were not wet as in a flooding issue.

    What do you guys think? What am I missing here? Could it be that the magneto magnet is weak and not producing an adequate spark when under compression? I am at a loss here. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

    A couple more things I forgot, the points are aligned and set per the manual. I took a compression check on all 4 cylinders and showed to be around 115+ psi on the gas side with all new parts not seated in yet. 



  9. Could someone tell me what the correct screws are for a M/MD grill?

    All it says in the parts book is: 56 668 D Radiator Grill Fastening Screw.

    Would they be a phillips head machine screw or a hex bevel washer head cap screw.


  10. I am working on the Lift-All pump for the MD. 

    I am replacing the 2 lip seals in it and both are NLA from I-H.

    Between O'Reilys & NAPA they were able to source me one with dimensions I gave them for the Pump Shaft Drive Coupling but nothing for the Control Shaft. The closest they could find was a metric one, the I.D. was fine but the O.D. was way too big. I really don't want to enlarge the bore in the pump housing/oil reservoir  if at all possible. 

    Has anyone gotten one for the Control Shaft that worked and is willing to share a part number? The dimensions needed are: O.D. (bore) 1.143" & .746" I.D. ( shaft size). 


  11. On the old letter series tractors that have a 4 position light switch, what is the amp size of the glass fuse that goes behind the switch? 

    The old switch that I have has a 30 amp fuse in it. That sure seems pretty hefty. 

    I put a 10 amp in for now. I looked in the operators manual but did not see any mention of a fuse.

    I looked in the parts manual and all it says is "fuse" but not what size. Thanks.

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