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Posts posted by bmk

  1. I thank I got oring blowed on the 886, steering quits when you turn tractor up hill.  So I was thanking of putting a new pump on it while I had it apart since its got a TA.  Steering has quit on the 1256, hadnt had time to figure out whats wrong with it.  Just wondering if they would interchange.  Thanks for the replies.


  2. Would a 12 gmp pump out of a 886 work in  place of a 9 gpm  on a 1256?   Somewhere I read it could be done but something had to be drilled out larger.  I hadnt been able to find where I read it.  I know someone on this forum should know.  Thanks

  3. Tractor would die just like you cut the switch off.  Wait about 15 seconds and it would crank back up, run again for just a few seconds and die again.  No priming or anything.   We finally found the return line on top of filter base had a banjo fitting that was plugged stopping the return.  Cleaned it out and running great again.  Thanks again for the replies.


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  4. I noticed a clicking noise in transmission pulling a load of hay up a hill.  I had noticed it before just a little while backing up but never going forward.  Now its doing it going forward, the higher gear, the better you can hear it.   We thank the clicking is coming from the range transmission.  Anything we might could check to help pinpoint the problem .

    My TA shifts like it should going up, but shifting down it hesitates and it will not hold back when going down a grade.  I have adjusted it  according to the manual i got.   I may have 2 different problems.  Any help would be apprecated.

  5. 522465995_IMG_20210130_1508119462.jpg.fa

    My blocks looks just like what you have circled with the lines going from the block back up under the seat, on both sides.  I can take the one on the right loose from the lines, but the one on the left has the lines made directly in the back.  Can i take the check valve out of the block or will it have to be completely changed?

  6. 30 minutes ago, Nebraska1206 said:

    Do you have the factory check blocks on the hydraulic remote outlets of your 1256?  Basically it's the block that I have circled here.  It's a check valve to keep the remotes from seeping by & allowing the hydraulics on a implement to settle.  They can have a way of making operation of hydraulic cylinders on equipment rather jerky.  We removed them from my good 1256 because they interfered with the raising and lowering of our corn planter.


    I thank its setup just like this, Ill look tomorrow to make sure.  Lines come down and have couplings, not like the couplings on the right side of your picture.


  7. When we use the remotes on the 1256, you have to be very easy and move the lever very little to let anything hooked to it down or it will lock the cylinder.  Only way to  unlock it is to raise it back just a little and try to go down again.  My help said something about it last year with the rake, and I forgot about it till I hooked the disk to it yesterday.  I tried the other remote and its the same way.  Is something out of adjustment  in the valve?  No problems raising up.  This is the only tractor we got that does this.  

  8. I still us a 1978 model 815 to shell about 12 acres of corn per year for cowfeed.  I had a gas burner which was a older model  that most of the parts are the same such as the radiator and most all the cleaning  parts.  It does a good job, just slow compared to the newer machines everyone uses today.


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