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Farmall Doctor

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Posts posted by Farmall Doctor

  1. I finally did a test drive with this 1066 that I have been working on! Rear end is silent! The Hy-Capacity ring and pinion are set exactly to spec, and the witness mark on the teeth in the manufacturer applied tooth paint looks perfect. I set the backlash to .010". Factory spec is .005 to .015".

    I have never had any issues with the Hy-Cap ring and pinion sets, but suppliers to them change, and this is the first one that I have used in a while, so I thought I would give an update. 

    • Like 2
  2. I had a chance to think about that operation.. put the speed trans in 4th to hold that gear in place against the TA Quill shaft. Then you only need to feed into the 1-2 sliding gear. When you draw the shaft out the rear , you might use a couple of screwdrivers to hold the 1-2 gear from dropping down to the countershaft. 

  3. 21 hours ago, Big Bud guy said:

    Just think it's weird to call a 12 speed a 3 speed.  Thats like calling the JD 8 speed syncro a "2" speed or the quad range an 8 speed.  

    You are just looking for an excuse to complain about anything IHC. Us IHC guys know what we are talking about. Bring yourself up to speed, or quit playing dumb.

    • Thanks 3
  4. 1 hour ago, hillman said:

    the guy on the cover of this brochure I came to think of as a friend. He passed away a few years ago , Jim Nagle, he told me those pictures were taken on Van Sickles farm near Jerseyville. I saw video of it on a Youtube video from Britian awhile ago but I cannot find it now.I meant to send the link to his family

     He was an IH blockman then worked at Baxters until they closed then became an Allis blockman Barry Baxter became an auctioneer and on more than one occasion would have some fun at my expense to make a crowd chuckle ....because we were good 👍

    ih nagle.jpg


  5. 2 hours ago, mmi said:

    sage info ,While that is possible  likely to happen, its not only $$$ but nie impossible  on crap gas ,

    $200 may stop it leaking past,then it simply evaporates. When at temps/work load to cause damage.

    Learn how to run it properly and keep engine in condition to not stall when running the heavy heat loads. If its that hot, a 2 handed re lite generally takes hold.

    Huh?? Both of you… seriously. What the heck are you trying to say?

    • Like 1
  6. Those original ramp and roller mechanical TA units outlasted the big frame sprag units! Stick with the original style, and be sure to do a full flush and use only Hy-Tran in it, (NO gear oil!) and it will last generations! I was on a shoestring student budget back in 1995 when I repaired the TA in my 300. I put new rollers, pins, and springs in the original ramp and roller all from IH. $35.00 at the time. I used the snot out of that tractor, baling, spreading fertilizer, and lots of tractor pulling, using the TA constantly, like it was designed, and it has never given any trouble at all.  Hy-Capacity offers a new ramp set with .010" oversized rollers to rebuild an original TA. The last M-TA that I built for a customer all I had to buy was that new ramp unit. 

    • Like 1
  7. Are you absolutely sure that the Torque Converter is full of oil? 

    I don't have hardly any experience with construction machinery, but torque converter problems aren't something that is commonly mentioned. They are a very simple device. I DO know that there was a HUGE Cat wheel dozer locally. 25 years ago they called me to look at it because it had the same symptoms. Full throttle and it would barely motivate itself. They showed me where the dipsticks were that they check. But I found one more... that was dry. 5 pails of Hy-Tran later and they were pulling loaded rail cars again. It is still going. 

  8. Thanks, DD!

    Truth be told, I'd rather do 10 clutch jobs in a row. It is so very time consuming. This 10 has had a rough life. I think that it spent most of it's time sitting outside. Every bolt has to be polished, every threaded hole needs tapped to clean, even all of the bull pinion shims were rusty. Someone put the diff lock seal in backwards, so the right brakes were oily and grimy... stuff like that. It's getting there though. There is much more room to set up and repair the shifting linkage without the axles installed though! 

  9. Ok, I got curious and checked... The sprag is a dead item.. even though it subs to a kit, and did price at $560 CAD. but that is also dead. But I wonder if I talked nice to the folks at Hy-Cap if they wouldn't have an original size sprag available.  I did talk to them a number of years ago about wanting to keep my original ratio unit, and they said that they could either build me one, or help me out. 

  10. It seems to me that the horizontal shaft end is rotated upwards much more than usual. Best remove it and check the retaining pin, hole in the shaft and drive tang at the carb end. Compare it with another if possible.

    • Like 2
  11. If I ever get around to replacing the sprag in my 15,000 hour 706, I'll do it myself so that I can retain the original gear ratio. The re-man units all use the newer ratio, which is less of a speed change. 

  12. I just swept my chimney.. Almost 60 degrees here and the fire is out for once. It was mostly fluff. My Pacific Energy stove with the re-burner is very easy to clean. Just remove the re-burner through the firebox, and the upper structure can be scraped out. I like to clean it mid-season because of the constant small smoldering fires, and only the occasional hot roaring fire. Good peace of mind. 



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