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Farmall Doctor

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Everything posted by Farmall Doctor

  1. Unfortunately, this what the rear housing will look like by the time you get that gear out.
  2. I finally did a test drive with this 1066 that I have been working on! Rear end is silent! The Hy-Capacity ring and pinion are set exactly to spec, and the witness mark on the teeth in the manufacturer applied tooth paint looks perfect. I set the backlash to .010". Factory spec is .005 to .015". I have never had any issues with the Hy-Cap ring and pinion sets, but suppliers to them change, and this is the first one that I have used in a while, so I thought I would give an update.
  3. I had a chance to think about that operation.. put the speed trans in 4th to hold that gear in place against the TA Quill shaft. Then you only need to feed into the 1-2 sliding gear. When you draw the shaft out the rear , you might use a couple of screwdrivers to hold the 1-2 gear from dropping down to the countershaft.
  4. You don’t have to do another split just to change the speed trans output. I even changed one without pulling the shift cover once. I forget how it went, it’s tricky. Otherwise, take the speed shift cover off.
  5. That really grinds my gears when they write auction numbers on machinery with original patina. It’s not that easy to get off.
  6. You are just looking for an excuse to complain about anything IHC. Us IHC guys know what we are talking about. Bring yourself up to speed, or quit playing dumb.
  7. Because it's a 1566. 3 speed "speed transmission" instead of 4.
  8. Ok, it was a very long time ago, you were asked if the shaft is spinning at throttle up when the machine isn’t moving. We can look at photos of everything from the hood ornament to the draw pin, but general consensus is that there is a torque converter problem.
  9. Huh?? Both of you… seriously. What the heck are you trying to say?
  10. Those original ramp and roller mechanical TA units outlasted the big frame sprag units! Stick with the original style, and be sure to do a full flush and use only Hy-Tran in it, (NO gear oil!) and it will last generations! I was on a shoestring student budget back in 1995 when I repaired the TA in my 300. I put new rollers, pins, and springs in the original ramp and roller all from IH. $35.00 at the time. I used the snot out of that tractor, baling, spreading fertilizer, and lots of tractor pulling, using the TA constantly, like it was designed, and it has never given any trouble at all. Hy-Capacity offers a new ramp set with .010" oversized rollers to rebuild an original TA. The last M-TA that I built for a customer all I had to buy was that new ramp unit.
  11. Are you absolutely sure that the Torque Converter is full of oil? I don't have hardly any experience with construction machinery, but torque converter problems aren't something that is commonly mentioned. They are a very simple device. I DO know that there was a HUGE Cat wheel dozer locally. 25 years ago they called me to look at it because it had the same symptoms. Full throttle and it would barely motivate itself. They showed me where the dipsticks were that they check. But I found one more... that was dry. 5 pails of Hy-Tran later and they were pulling loaded rail cars again. It is still going.
  12. Thanks, DD! Truth be told, I'd rather do 10 clutch jobs in a row. It is so very time consuming. This 10 has had a rough life. I think that it spent most of it's time sitting outside. Every bolt has to be polished, every threaded hole needs tapped to clean, even all of the bull pinion shims were rusty. Someone put the diff lock seal in backwards, so the right brakes were oily and grimy... stuff like that. It's getting there though. There is much more room to set up and repair the shifting linkage without the axles installed though!
  13. Ok, I got curious and checked... The sprag is a dead item.. even though it subs to a kit, and did price at $560 CAD. but that is also dead. But I wonder if I talked nice to the folks at Hy-Cap if they wouldn't have an original size sprag available. I did talk to them a number of years ago about wanting to keep my original ratio unit, and they said that they could either build me one, or help me out.
  14. I don’t know… I never looked into it.
  15. It seems to me that the horizontal shaft end is rotated upwards much more than usual. Best remove it and check the retaining pin, hole in the shaft and drive tang at the carb end. Compare it with another if possible.
  16. If I ever get around to replacing the sprag in my 15,000 hour 706, I'll do it myself so that I can retain the original gear ratio. The re-man units all use the newer ratio, which is less of a speed change.
  17. I just swept my chimney.. Almost 60 degrees here and the fire is out for once. It was mostly fluff. My Pacific Energy stove with the re-burner is very easy to clean. Just remove the re-burner through the firebox, and the upper structure can be scraped out. I like to clean it mid-season because of the constant small smoldering fires, and only the occasional hot roaring fire. Good peace of mind.
  18. Can you just open the door and put the stove out with a fire extinguisher for starters? And if heat is rising, wouldn’t the extinguisher go up the pipe as well?
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