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Everything posted by thebunns

  1. I just looked in Snap-on, Knipex, Mac & Google in general. I saw a few hundred pairs but none like yours. If you figure out where yours came from, I'd be interested. Vic
  2. Besides being too cold to have much incentive to tear things apart, that head got worked over a few years ago when I overheated & cracked it. It's winter & all I want to do is make it 'til spring. I need a crawler to plow my 1/2 mile, steep driveway so my goal each year is to have the -14 & the -14A running at the first snowfall. Then it's band aid time until spring. The valve in question is working fine right now so I'll see how long it lasts with this year's band aids of valve stem lubricant, fuel additive, etc. I've got to say that I sure learned a lot here from you guys. Thanks! Vic
  3. I understand what you're getting at, but how do you get at the valve face? Vic
  4. Those are first pair of "sideways" pliers I've seen in over 80 years. Thanks! Vic
  5. You lost me with the tool under the valve idea. Can you get under it by removing the intake and/or the exhaust manifold? If that were the case, I'd think that almost anything that fit in the hole would work. Vic
  6. Here's my answer to the pliers issue---they don't work. The little pair goes around the stem but would have no gripping power. The two larger ones go only part way around the stem but will not grip it. What we need is a pair of the larger pliers with the end bent in parallel to the handles as opposed to perpendicular to them. A previous picture I put on here shows the stem offset to the right of the hole. Does anyone have, or know where I could get such a pair? Vic
  7. I hear you, but if I was to put the pliers on a portion of a valve stem that would go up into the guide, they would already be up against it so there would be no movement possible. I put a good dose of conditioner (and anti-gel) into the fuel tank last fall. Would the 2 cycle oil do more good than adding something to the oil? Vic
  8. I did take note of the pliers. I've ordered some but at this time don't need them. The valve is moving up & down with the lever. When the spray can of "carbon eliminator" gets here I'll spray the stem through the spark plug hole & give the valve a good workout. When I get the pliers, I'll see if they will go into the hole & grasp the valve stem so that we'll know it that's a possibility for the future. Vic
  9. I just responded to your post but don't see it. I thought as you do about the type cleaner to use. I've ordered a can of StarBright carbon eliminator. I'll see if it helps. Vic
  10. Speaking of mistakes (distractions) I made it sound almost impossible to move the valve stem with needle nose pliers but you would only have to attempt to raise the stem, with the help of the spring. When moving it back down, merely move the lever. Vic
  11. Totally possible, although I think it would be difficult to find a pair of pliers that would grip the stem strong enough to move it against the spring without buggering up the plug hole threads. I just got in from working the starting valve on my -14 through the spark plug hole. I noticed that when I moved the lever from start to diesel the valve was moving just a bit. It's easy to spot in that the stem is discolored for about 1/4" next to the head between the two positions . I sprayed a little silicon lubricant on the stem & then ran the lever up & down several times. I sprayed it again & did the same. It's working fine right now! I'll get some brake parts cleaner in an attempt to help dissolve the carbon buildup & repeat the procedure. I added the photo to "sort of" show the difference in colors on the stem. Vic
  12. Thanks for that explanation. It seems like I tried & failed to get the cap off the top of the valve spring before. It had been described to me how to do it but my setup was different than was described. We'll see how things go! Vic
  13. I've checked the spark plug hole for compression leaks in the past. I know the valve is stuck (I've unstuck it twice). Where do I spray the brake clean spray? Can I shoot it in the spark plug hole or do I need to do it from up top through the spring? Vic
  14. Those pictures sure back up everything you said, Dennis. I'm just trying to prevent taking the top end apart, if possible. Maybe I'll dump some oil additive in and see if that helps after I free up the valve. This tractor only gets run about once a month. I try to keep it going to use as a backup to my TD-14A that does the winter snow plowing. Also, I use it to push snow back when necessary because its blade is easier to swing. Snow plowing is the only work that either dozer gets to do. Vic
  15. Thanks, Dennis---your explanation sounds plausible (and believable) to me. I can see it now. I will look into the plug hole but don't believe I can spread the pliers enough to grasp the valve stem after getting far enough in to touch it. Your description of the plug hole being in the extra chamber was about all it took for me to "see" the picture. I've told the story somewhere on one of these sites but will give you a chance for a laugh. To unstick the valve, I take the hood & valve cover off. I then put the lever in diesel mode so the decompression valves are up (closed). I put an air hammer to the top of the stuck valve & let it pound for awhile. That lasts as long as I exercise the lever pretty often, whether I start the tractor or not. Vic Vic
  16. I was trying to get a visual on that system. Where is the extra chamber, above or below the plug hole? Would needle nose pliers do any good? Vic
  17. I've installed the much awaited fuel canister washer & fired up the motor on gas. I tried bleeding the individual injectors but got nothing. I switched to diesel anyway & it took off just fine. The only problem was that the #1 decompression valve has stuck again. I just put the valve cover & hood back on. Can I put a bent piece of metal (such as a brake adjustment spoon) in the spark plug hole & push the valve back up to the diesel position, meaning---can the valve be reached through the spark plug hole? I realize that I have to do it with the motor shut off so it might stick again as soon as I put it back in the gas position but maybe after a few times it will go up via its spring. Vic
  18. I'll tell you in a few days. I just got the much awaited copper washer so should be good to go! Vic
  19. A couple of things---my -14 has a Bosch pump on it. And it has no gauge. I just found out that the washer holding me up is at the post office. I'll let you know how difficult it was to start. Vic
  20. Actually, the fuel tank was shut off & the filter (there's only one) was removed because the copper washer at the top was leaking. I'd waited so long for a new washer that I'd forgotten all about it. I'm sure I can check for air just before the pump & then bleed the injectors. Thanks, it sounds like we pretty much agree on how to get it going. Vic
  21. I just made the mistake of running my TD-14 injector pump out of fuel so the motor died. What are the odds of moving the throttle lever up enough to pump some fuel & bleed the injectors while running the motor on gas? Vic
  22. Your problem sounds quite a bit like the one I had for over three years starting my -14. I always got it going but with an awful lot of grinding on the starter. One day I had reason to compare the positions of the spark plug wires to my -14A. They were off one hole on the distributor. I wired it like the -14A & have not had a problem since. Maybe a timing check is in order. Vic
  23. I'm looking at TD-14A serial number TDF34659. There are differences between that one & my -14A serial number TDF36246 manufactured in the same year. I'm told by my "main mechanic" that farm tractors were built with different gear ratios or rear end ratios, giving higher speeds/gear. Is there any way to find out if this is correct, other than putting the two tractors side by side, picking a gear & see what happens? He was guessing that the farm tractor might be geared too high for plowing snow, which is my main reason for having the tractor.
  24. F2036, Thanks for the update and address for Charley, I will find a card and send a note off to him. We have (or had) more than our share of snow here. It warmed up to 45 degrees Monday and now we have glare ice or snow encrusted ice:-( Here is a picture for Gary of warmer times here in Iowa Wil Here is a picture of my snow moving equipment Here's my brother's snow remover in Steamboat Springs: F2036, Thanks for the update and address for Charley, I will find a card and send a note off to him. We have (or had) more than our share of snow here. It warmed up to 45 degrees Monday and now we have glare ice or snow encrusted ice:-( Here is a picture for Gary of warmer times here in Iowa Wil Here is a picture of my snow moving equipment Here's my brother's snow remover in Steamboat Springs:
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