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Everything posted by thebunns

  1. Yesterday I checked the coil & condenser with a multimeter. The condenser checked what I determined to be OK but the coil has an open secondary so I've ordered a new one from ebay. I'll keep you posted on how well/if it works. Vic
  2. I took the distributor caps off both engines & took pictures of the rotor locations. I then mounted the -14 mag in the -14A & it started immediately. I'm now going to replace the coil & condenser in the other mag & see if it works in the -14. To Colin's request, I would add a simple hand scribed drawing (schematic) of the coil addition to put the subject to rest. Vic
  3. Thanks for the tip on timing---it's just as I thought. I've had the intake manifold off several times, and each time I worked the butterflies to include spraying penetrant but the left side never freed up. Now I spray the shaft with a nozzle on the spray can. It has eased up a bit over the years, but not enough. Vic
  4. I'll check the "flippy thing"! It has been working fine until the other day but, on the -14 I have to pull the yoke up every time I put the lever in the gas position because it sticks. I've never been able to free it up. I started to remove it once or twice but was afraid that I wouldn't be able to find replacement parts. Vic
  5. Can I assume that the only thing I have to watch when swapping mags is the position of the rotor? If I remember correctly a mag will mount in only two ways, each being 180 deg. apart---correct? If that's the case, I guess that all mags are put together the same way after being disassembled so that they will be within the adjustment range when installed in the motor. Vic
  6. Stay tuned---it may take a bit as the -14 has a bad cylinder on gas & on diesel so I'm trying to work both of them. Vic
  7. The kill switch has never been hooked up in the last ten years that I've owned the tractor. Vic I haven't tried it but I assume that if I remove a spark plug & turn the engine over, gas ought to spray out of the cylinder. Correct? Also, I've found a compression tester kit that includes an 18 mm adapter so I'll be using that as soon as it shows up. Vic
  8. I doubt I'll try something like you've described but it is interesting. Thanks for sharing! I've just about got my mind made up to pull the mag off of my -14 that sits right next to the "dead" one & try it to see if it makes a difference. That would help keep the troubleshooting cheap, at least for the time being. Vic
  9. I add gas at the time I start the motor. It doesn't sit in the tank. I'm wondering, if I can't get a pop out of a good dose of ether that maybe the mag is putting out a spark but it's just not enough to fire the plugs. Of course, along with that thought, how does the mag work for ever, and then today it's too weak to work. Vic
  10. When I pulled the #1 plug, I noticed that the valve stem was down. Vic
  11. Last week I went down the road a couple of miles & pulled a neighbor out of snowbank. I came home & parked the tractor. I've been using it all winter plowing my driveway. This morning I attempted to start it---and nothing. No pop, all it would do is turn over. I have a spark coming from the mag and gas going to the carb. I'm getting spark to the #1 plug through a tester. I pulled the #1 plug & it was dry. I removed the carb, took it apart & blew out all the holes. The float seems to be fine. I reinstalled it---no help. I cranked it some more, shooting starting fluid into the intake but it would not fire one cylinder. This tractor has never refused to start, including the day I started it up on a mountain where it had been sitting for a dozen years. I'd like a little (or a lot) advise on what to try next. Vic
  12. You guys with TD-14s---what brand & p/n spark plugs are you running? I have Champion W89D plugs in mine & want to try something else. Vic
  13. The starter spring Delco Remy number is 377701 & the International Harvester number is 50077H. Larry is the guy to deal with & Helen will take your money! Vic
  14. I've received the manufactured spring from Hagemeister Enterprises Inc (HEI) in Lebanon OR. I've shown a comparison between the old & new springs where the new one ought to be quite a bit stronger with its five thicker coils instead of the seven thinner original ones. After everything is reinstalled & working I'll work on the magneto as I don't believe the tractor runs consistently on all cylinders in gas mode. Vic
  15. I couldn't move the track adjusters on my TD-14 when I got it, so I had an open ended wrench made with 2" receptacle on the other end so I could put a pipe in it. I then laid the pipe on the drawbar of my 9N Ford & let the hydraulics do the work. I was able to free them up enough to eliminate the hydraulic boost. On my TD-14A both adjusters stripped & slammed back as far as they would go so I left them & fabricated spacers to keep the idle wheels tight. Vic
  16. I've learned that there is a spring being made for me. I understand it will look a little different than an OEM one. It's two weeks out so stay tuned! Vic
  17. I see the difference. Mine is an Isaacson blade. Vic
  18. Here's what my TD-14 looked like when I had to replace the popped rivets on the rear sprocket. The hydraulic cylinder & brackets are mounted on the frame so didn't have to be removed. Vic
  19. I have the TD-14A that is super reliable. I just have to watch that I don't throw a track, as that system is pretty well worn. I pulled the starter yesterday and it has 13 teeth. It turns out that the spring is not broken, just stretched. The problem was that one screw came out. I'd thrown the locking tabs away years ago & replaced them with lock washers. This time I'll use locktite. What I do need is a screw. I'm waiting on a spring but don't know if it's the right size.
  20. I can get the drive unit to include the spring but need to know the number of teeth on the gear. Is it 12 or 13? With this info, HEI in Oregon can fix me up. Also, Steiner Tractor is wanting a seven digit part number. I cannot find the starter or its breakdown in my TC-25-B parts catalog. Vic
  21. I just broke the third (I think) spring on my TD-14 starter. I went through all of my paperwork & don't have a receipt or invoice to follow. Can somebody get me started on where to look or call for another one? Thanks! Here's a shot of how I got it out the last time. That's easier than seeing how many times I can pinch my hands. Vic
  22. I agree with north of 60! If the ammeter reads a few amps +, the only thing you need it for is to start the tractor. If you have some lights on it, no problem. Vic
  23. It's possible that they were mistaken. When I ordered the "valve housing cover gasket", they sent me the "valve housing gasket" with tabs but no holes in them. I told them that it was the wrong one & they sent me the same gasket with holes in the tabs. I was able to cut the tabs off & use one of them for the cover gasket. Using my parts catalog, I was able to explain the difference in gaskets & they corrected their records. Vic
  24. I can't find the invoice, but I'm sure I put an Olsen head gasket on my -14 in '08 after I overheated the motor & cracked it. I just got a valve cover gasket from them---they're great people to work with. Vic
  25. I did notice that your pliers are "double jointed". I've ordered a pair. They could be a mile long & wouldn't grasp the valve stem through the spark plug hole. Reread my post where I show my pliers. They've got to be offset to get any kind of grip on the stem. Vic
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