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Everything posted by thebunns

  1. Try contacting Larry at HEI in Lebanon Oregon. He just had one made for my TD-14. Larry's Cell: (541) 401-3881 Vic
  2. OK, I've got it! That's a poorly drawn illustration. It looks like I could use it by looking only at the positions of the numbers, not the positions of the stud representations. Vic
  3. That is the exact illustration I'm talking about that is not my head. Just for starters, my head has two intake ports & three exhaust ports. It has two outside rows of 8 studs & one row down the center with 5 studs. My version is shown above. Vic
  4. The wrong torque sequence illustration in my service manual says that it is for "14 Series heads". From what I've read, going in a zig-zag pattern from the center out is the general idea. Vic
  5. It looks like I'm not going to come up with a torque pattern so I've made one. Does anyone see anything wrong with the one I made up? Vic
  6. The torque pattern in the TD-14 service manual is not the correct illustration for head #8064DA on my tractor. It's the right head according to my TC-25-B parts catalog. Can somebody provide me with the correct torque pattern. Here are a couple of pictures---left to right, front to back. Vic
  7. Try Olsen's Gaskets (360) 871-1207 for your gaskets and VBelts Direct (702) 843-0588 for the belts. Vic
  8. It sounds like your setup is similar to the ones on my -14 & -14A. If so here's an idea on what to look for. On one print, #21 fits on #22. It moves when the switchover from gas to diesel lever is moved. When #21 is connected to #51 of the second print, #13 will open & close. If you don't see those parts, see if there are two rods going from the back of the carburetor through the dash. One is the choke & the other one is probably a mechanical shutoff for the float valve. I have one of each setup. Vic
  9. I now have an adapter for the compression tester, have tested all cylinders & got 80-100 lb. pressure. The problem is that I forgot to install the mag with the new coil so don't know where the timing is. I punched the starter until I got air out of the #1 plug hole and set the mag accordingly and installed it. Nothing! I pulled the mag & rotated the rotor one position, and another and another but no pop. The #1 spark plug is getting a good spark. I pulled the plug, turned the engine over with my finger in the plug hole. It was dry. Question---shouldn't I have gas spraying on my
  10. I shut off my TD-14A one afternoon after plowing my driveway. A couple of days later it wouldn't fire. The coil went bad sitting in the shed. Vic
  11. OK folks, here it is---the adapter for checking compression. It's a metric nut welded onto the gutted out spark plug. The compression gage hose screws into it. Testing is next & I'll have some numbers to share. Vic
  12. I've had W89D plugs in both of my tractors for 15-20 years with no problems. Lately I've been having trouble with both machines. I've fixed one of them by cannonballing the magneto from the other one. Now I'm working on a cylinder problem on the one that's still broke but am leaning away from the spark plugs. Vic
  13. Exactly!!! I've always shut both tractors down in diesel mode after cleaning the dirt (mud) from the top rollers & backing them into the barn. That takes several minutes. Vic
  14. I assume that you are talking about checking for pressure in the spark plug hole when in diesel mode. That would tell if the decompression valve is working properly or not. I've already done that check by sticking my finger in the spark plug hole & turning the motor over in diesel mode. It's working fine after I unstuck it. Right now I'm going after the other two valves because the #1 cylinder won't fire in either mode. I'm slowly working my way to pulling the hood & valve cover to check for clearances (broken spring?). Everything is tough when it comes to working with the cylind
  15. I understand---I don't intend to check for pressure out of the spark plug hole in diesel mode. Vic
  16. Thanks---I had thought of that. If the cylinder isn't completely dead of pressure, I'll do it. First, I've got to come up with a compression tester setup. Vic
  17. My book shows the compression ratio in diesel mode as 2 1/2 times that in gas mode and compression as above 400 psi @ 1000 rpm. I assume that's in diesel mode. I guess that seeing some kind of pressure in gas mode would indicate to me that all three valves are at least partially working. Vic
  18. Now that the -14A has a new (from the -14) mag, my attention goes back to the -14 & its #1 cylinder. As soon as I get the coil for the mag that's going back on it, I want to check the compression on that cylinder to start troubleshooting it. The problem is that I can't find a 23mm (7/8") adaptor for a compression tester. The other day I made the mistake (the third time) of getting a kit with adaptors that go only to 18mm. All of the rubber push on adaptors that I've seen or tried just fall into the plug hole. Vic
  19. Yesterday I checked the coil & condenser with a multimeter. The condenser checked what I determined to be OK but the coil has an open secondary so I've ordered a new one from ebay. I'll keep you posted on how well/if it works. Vic
  20. I took the distributor caps off both engines & took pictures of the rotor locations. I then mounted the -14 mag in the -14A & it started immediately. I'm now going to replace the coil & condenser in the other mag & see if it works in the -14. To Colin's request, I would add a simple hand scribed drawing (schematic) of the coil addition to put the subject to rest. Vic
  21. Thanks for the tip on timing---it's just as I thought. I've had the intake manifold off several times, and each time I worked the butterflies to include spraying penetrant but the left side never freed up. Now I spray the shaft with a nozzle on the spray can. It has eased up a bit over the years, but not enough. Vic
  22. I'll check the "flippy thing"! It has been working fine until the other day but, on the -14 I have to pull the yoke up every time I put the lever in the gas position because it sticks. I've never been able to free it up. I started to remove it once or twice but was afraid that I wouldn't be able to find replacement parts. Vic
  23. Can I assume that the only thing I have to watch when swapping mags is the position of the rotor? If I remember correctly a mag will mount in only two ways, each being 180 deg. apart---correct? If that's the case, I guess that all mags are put together the same way after being disassembled so that they will be within the adjustment range when installed in the motor. Vic
  24. Stay tuned---it may take a bit as the -14 has a bad cylinder on gas & on diesel so I'm trying to work both of them. Vic
  25. The kill switch has never been hooked up in the last ten years that I've owned the tractor. Vic I haven't tried it but I assume that if I remove a spark plug & turn the engine over, gas ought to spray out of the cylinder. Correct? Also, I've found a compression tester kit that includes an 18 mm adapter so I'll be using that as soon as it shows up. Vic
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