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Everything posted by thebunns

  1. Fair enough! I was told once that if the exhaust is on the right, it's a -14 & if it's on the left it's a -14A. Google (and quite a few posts in here, I imagine) says that the -14s were built until 1949. The radiator cap is the same as the one on my 1953 -14A. Vic
  2. That's a TD-14A, correct? Vic
  3. I have fuel pumps on both my TD-14 & -14A crawlers rebuilt by Central Fuel Injection in Estherville, IA. They have worked fine for several years. Vic
  4. The "DD" gasket fit just fine. I reassembled the motor & it fired up immediately! Vic
  5. Assuming that nobody knew the answer to my question, I went at it another way. I turned the motor, one tooth at a time by prying the clutch back plate with a bar. When the magneto clicked, I removed the distributor cap to determine which cylinder the rotor was pointing at. I adjusted the valves for that cylinder and then it was just a matter of three more clicks. Done! Vic
  6. I have to turn the engine on my TD-14 using the clutch backplate, as the hydraulic pump is in front of the crankshaft. How many teeth are on that backplate? Once I get the motor top dead center on the number one plug, I'd like to mark it and then turn the motor one half turn to mark it again. That should make it easier to set all of the valve clearances. Vic
  7. I don't remember the model, but an average John Deere with a front loader had no problem picking the tops off my TD-14 & -14A. And it put them back on. Vic
  8. Try Olson's Gaskets on (360) 871-1207. Vic
  9. The good news is that I'm not trying to go from "C" to "D", so not to worry! Vic
  10. I need a head gasket (p/n 50675 DC) for my TD-14. I have a new gasket (p/n 50675 DD) for my TD-14A. What is the difference between the C (-14) & D (-14A) in part numbers? Will the gasket fit the -14? Vic
  11. Try contacting Larry at HEI in Lebanon Oregon. He just had one made for my TD-14. Larry's Cell: (541) 401-3881 Vic
  12. OK, I've got it! That's a poorly drawn illustration. It looks like I could use it by looking only at the positions of the numbers, not the positions of the stud representations. Vic
  13. That is the exact illustration I'm talking about that is not my head. Just for starters, my head has two intake ports & three exhaust ports. It has two outside rows of 8 studs & one row down the center with 5 studs. My version is shown above. Vic
  14. The wrong torque sequence illustration in my service manual says that it is for "14 Series heads". From what I've read, going in a zig-zag pattern from the center out is the general idea. Vic
  15. It looks like I'm not going to come up with a torque pattern so I've made one. Does anyone see anything wrong with the one I made up? Vic
  16. The torque pattern in the TD-14 service manual is not the correct illustration for head #8064DA on my tractor. It's the right head according to my TC-25-B parts catalog. Can somebody provide me with the correct torque pattern. Here are a couple of pictures---left to right, front to back. Vic
  17. Try Olsen's Gaskets (360) 871-1207 for your gaskets and VBelts Direct (702) 843-0588 for the belts. Vic
  18. It sounds like your setup is similar to the ones on my -14 & -14A. If so here's an idea on what to look for. On one print, #21 fits on #22. It moves when the switchover from gas to diesel lever is moved. When #21 is connected to #51 of the second print, #13 will open & close. If you don't see those parts, see if there are two rods going from the back of the carburetor through the dash. One is the choke & the other one is probably a mechanical shutoff for the float valve. I have one of each setup. Vic
  19. I now have an adapter for the compression tester, have tested all cylinders & got 80-100 lb. pressure. The problem is that I forgot to install the mag with the new coil so don't know where the timing is. I punched the starter until I got air out of the #1 plug hole and set the mag accordingly and installed it. Nothing! I pulled the mag & rotated the rotor one position, and another and another but no pop. The #1 spark plug is getting a good spark. I pulled the plug, turned the engine over with my finger in the plug hole. It was dry. Question---shouldn't I have gas spraying on my finger? Vic
  20. I shut off my TD-14A one afternoon after plowing my driveway. A couple of days later it wouldn't fire. The coil went bad sitting in the shed. Vic
  21. OK folks, here it is---the adapter for checking compression. It's a metric nut welded onto the gutted out spark plug. The compression gage hose screws into it. Testing is next & I'll have some numbers to share. Vic
  22. I've had W89D plugs in both of my tractors for 15-20 years with no problems. Lately I've been having trouble with both machines. I've fixed one of them by cannonballing the magneto from the other one. Now I'm working on a cylinder problem on the one that's still broke but am leaning away from the spark plugs. Vic
  23. Exactly!!! I've always shut both tractors down in diesel mode after cleaning the dirt (mud) from the top rollers & backing them into the barn. That takes several minutes. Vic
  24. I assume that you are talking about checking for pressure in the spark plug hole when in diesel mode. That would tell if the decompression valve is working properly or not. I've already done that check by sticking my finger in the spark plug hole & turning the motor over in diesel mode. It's working fine after I unstuck it. Right now I'm going after the other two valves because the #1 cylinder won't fire in either mode. I'm slowly working my way to pulling the hood & valve cover to check for clearances (broken spring?). Everything is tough when it comes to working with the cylinders as I can't crank the motor. The hydraulic pump is in the way. Vic
  25. I understand---I don't intend to check for pressure out of the spark plug hole in diesel mode. Vic
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