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thebunns

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About thebunns

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/25/1939

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oroville, WA
  • Interests
    Keeping the weeds down on my 100 acres of wildlife habitat, feeding & watering game, and taking pictures.

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  1. Your problem sounds quite a bit like the one I had for over three years starting my -14. I always got it going but with an awful lot of grinding on the starter. One day I had reason to compare the positions of the spark plug wires to my -14A. They were off one hole on the distributor. I wired it like the -14A & have not had a problem since. Maybe a timing check is in order. Vic
  2. Maybe, sometimes it is better to tackle a job without reading every step of the instructions. I didn't have the luxury of maintenance books when I was learning "do it yourself" stuff.
  3. I wonder what I missed when I completely reworked both clutches & put in new/relined brakes on my -14A. I had no such tool. Vic
  4. I believe that I can get the clevis off to try & move the drum forward. This probably will happen in the spring when the weather gets a little warmer. I suspect you're right about the diesel. Does anybody have a picture of the inside of the winch? Vic
  5. Thanks---I'll check the water situation. I haven't tried power in yet because the hook at the end of the cable is tethered to the rebar shield via a clevis. A couple of questions: Is diesel the "oil" it calls for? There are drain plugs on both sides. Do I need to fight both of them? Where do I hit the case, facing it from the rear?
  6. The Isaacson winch on my -14 is stuck---hasn't been turned in 15 years. I plan on hooking it to a tree in the spring when I can get to one & give it a nudge. Because it's been a long time, is the center position of the lever neutral? If so, all I have to do is release the brake & the drum ought to rotate, correct? Vic
  7. A couple of weeks ago, I dumped two tubes of AlumAseal radiator stop leak in the -14A & it worked. I've been plowing the driveway since then with no problems. I will save the head & valve cover gaskets for future reference. My -14 has had the same treatment about three times through the years & has worked every time. I believe its a legal fix for something almost as old as I am. Vic
  8. Try "Binderbooks.com". Vic
  9. I had the same problem with a rotor on my TD-14. Get a rotor that fits easily so the cap fits properly. You said that you read 12+ volts on the negative side of the coil. Is that the case with the points closed? If so, that's not good. Vic
  10. If Olsen's Gaskets don't have them, they'll make them! Vic
  11. Ouch! I'd fill those spark plug or injector holes full of something slick. Then tow it and see if you can pop it loose. How about the steering clutches? Have they been tied back? If not it may be time to run it into a tree after you get the engine going in an attempt to get them working. Just a thought. Vic
  12. I totally agree! It's going to wait until spring unless I get desperate & need it. Even then, I'll run it as is & watch for the problem to get worse so I don't have to tear it down unless it's necessary below freezing around here. I'm getting too old to wrestle with much of anything so I'll have to winch the hood off, get it out of the way and then winch the head off, a fair amount of work. I've got the gaskets so am ready to do it when I feel like it (or have to). Vic
  13. Here are our main go to town (16 miles) vehicles---a '69 VW Bug & a '80 Jeep CJ-5.
  14. Apparently I'm older than you---I want no part of that "loud & crude" stuff you're showing in the picture. Vic
  15. Your outside work sounds a bit like mine growing up in the 40's & 50's up in New York State. Temperatures in winter rarely got to -40 but -25 to -30 was pretty common. Getting old, I guess. I'll never see my 70's again. Vic
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