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thebunns

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About thebunns

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/25/1939

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oroville, WA
  • Interests
    Keeping the weeds down on my 100 acres of wildlife habitat, feeding & watering game, and taking pictures.

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  1. I've bought rollers for my TD-14A from General Gear & Machine in Boise, Idaho. Vic
  2. I don't know what "OP" means but it doesn't apply to my TD-14A! It has no oil or grease fittings on the bottom rollers, nor does it have plugs. Here is a picture of a TD-15 roller sent to me by mistake (if somebody wants it, here it is). The -14A looks the same---I didn't want to lay in the dirt to take its picture. Vic
  3. I use 80-90 oil in all rollers on my TD-14 but was told that the bottom rollers on my TD-14A are sealed so I've never touched them. The idler rollers take the oil. Vic
  4. I've done no research. Through the years I have periodically tightened the nuts to minimize the leaks but now feel that I'm at the end of "tightening the nuts". What is the site you are talking about? Vic
  5. rodhergott---I'll be waiting along with you for where to buy packing. I could use some for the cylinders on the Isaacson blade on my TD-14. Vic
  6. Given that it had a 12 volt battery in it, it is has a 12 volt system so if you put two 6 volt batteries in it they have to be wired in series to get 12 volts. I just put two 6 volt group 4 batteries (that's their size) in my '42 TD-14. Yours might take the same. Vic
  7. Count me in! I've heard of that solution, also. Vic
  8. I had to remove the body on one of my injectors to retrieve two bottom injector seals and it came right up with a little nudge with a bar. Vic
  9. I've had injectors out of my -14 many times. I disconnect the fuel line & remove the two 3/8" bolts holding one in. I then twist the injector with a large pair of pliers while putting a bit of pressure underneath it with a screwdriver or small bar. It doesn't take much for the injector to pop out. It's really tough to pull straight on something that is stuck. It needs to be turned! Vic
  10. My TD-14 radiator has to be topped off, I mean full to almost overflowing or it will overheat. Vic
  11. While you're looking at your carburetor, check the resistance of a plug wire. I spent several years trying to get my '42 -14 to start easier. One wire was reading 29,000 ohms, the rest of them considerably less. The wires I installed read .4 ohms each. Vic
  12. I'll make you feel a little better! Many years ago I followed an ad on a TD-14 for sale. It was in a dump pushing garbage. When I got there it was running & the owner said to try it out. I got on, pushed a little snow & told him I'd take it. He hired it trailed to my place. As it was winter & it would have been impossible to get it up to my house I walked 2 1/2 miles down the road & met the driver. He told me to unload it but I didn't know how to start it---he didn't either. In a blizzard, we unhooked & drove to town 16 miles away to look for a mechanic. We found o
  13. Pretty neat idea---I assume the test worked. I also assume that the plugs on my -14 have been firing on diesel for the last 15-20 years. Vic
  14. That only applies if the ground lug on the mag is wired to the switch up on the end of the manifold. The lug on my tractor reads .3 ohms with no wire (or anything else) connected to it. Vic
  15. I can't figure out how this system works when the post I want to ground when switching to diesel is already grounded with the motor shut off. It makes me wonder how the tractor starts in the first place. Exactly how did you test your system to determine that your switch didn't work? Vic
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