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Everything posted by wjohn

  1. I pulled the oil pump last night... It sure was stuck in there. It's worn and dirty, but I'm hoping it's usable for now. Clearances measured as follows: Drive gear to housing wall: .009" (.004-.006" per spec) Driven gear to housing wall: .003" (.004-.006" per spec) Gear to gear/backlash: .023" (.003-.006" per spec) The drive shaft has just a bit of side play so must have some wear (that seems to be where the .009" drive gear to housing clearance is coming from, and contributing to the backlash value). Unfortunately I can't find that hardly any of the internals (shaft, gears, etc.) are still available, so I'm leaning towards buttoning it back up after cleaning. I haven't plastigaged the gear to bottom plate clearance yet but plan on doing that and seeing if it need to flatten the plate out. Then I'll reassemble with a new thin gasket. I do see Bates appears to have a pump rebuilding option for $445 where you send your pump in as a core. I'd be inclined to do that if I were rebuilding this engine. I also can't seem to get Mahle or Fel-Pro oil pan gaskets anywhere right now so that has been a pain. The Fel-Pro head gasket set came next day, no problems. I may have to order some no-name brand from Steiner or Amazon. What do you all think - would you reuse a pump with this amount of wear as-is?
  2. When I was looking around, anymore most GL-5 is 1B in the ASTM D130 copper corrosion testing. I verified that the stuff I got is 1B. 1A is the only better rating available. GL-1s are typically 1A or 1B rated from what I have found. I do believe there was a period of time when GL-5 was pretty hard on yellow metals and for the most part that has changed (there are a few exceptions, so be sure to check the data sheet for the stuff you get). GL-1 is not cheap around here at least, either. TSC had a couple of 2 gallon jugs for $33/ea. Of course you're right that it was probably what was around when these tractors were new, and if you get one that is rated 1A for copper corrosion, that's the best you can do.
  3. Good catch! I found your post on the other color forum when you safety wired your WD-45 engine with the WD block. Now's as good of a time as any to buy some wire and pliers for it.
  4. Thanks for the input Dennis. I'm hoping to pull a 13' 370 disk and do some brush hogging with this tractor so it will get worked, but there would be times it wouldn't get worked so hard (like drilling wheat). I see some 160 degree thermostats available so I'll do some more digging to see if I can find any for other temps in the OE style. I may just put a 160 in and block off the grille if needed. The tractor has evidence of having had a loader on it so I can only imagine how many times it was started up in the winter to move a bale or something and then shut down again. I'll try to get into the oil pump while I have the pan off. I have to wait a bit for the oil pan gasket anyways. None of the local parts stores seem to be able to get them right now. I do plan on changing the antifreeze after I've addressed the oil, filter, carb, etc. and hopefully test the tractor out enough to make sure it doesn't have any major issues lurking. Aren't these dry sleeve engines though?
  5. I got stalled on my AC WD project when I discovered I needed a replacement block, so I pulled the SM up to the shop to change oil and filters. It started right up, and I quickly discovered I hadn't gotten the governor shaft realigned correctly with the throttle shaft. I had pulled the carb off to measure the throttle shaft length. Won't make that mistake again! As I got close to the shop, I had to play with the choke a lot to keep it running, and then it died right after I pulled up and couldn't get it restarted. I'm sure the fuel system is all clogged up. There was 1/4" of sludge on the oil pan drain plug, and about the same in the base of the oil filter housing, so I figured I'd better drop the oil pan. It was pretty nasty. I was worried the pickup screen would be blocked but it wasn't too bad. Of course the oil pressure gauge doesn't move at all... Add that to the list of parts. Minus the sludge things are looking okay so far. I'm planning on getting new oil pan and valve cover gaskets, adjusting the valve clearances and checking for sludge up top, and refilling with non-detergent oil and running it for a while. I seem to have a leak near the front of the transmission cover so I may be pulling that off to re-gasket as well.
  6. Thanks guys. I won't lose sleep over it.
  7. One more question on the hand clutch... When I let the foot clutch out on the tractor to drive forwards or backwards, the hand clutch lever would kick forwards and backwards some. It's like there is some slop somewhere it is taking up and allowing some free play in that lever, and it's flipping back and forth. The hand clutch stays engaged though. I know I need to get in there and clean it up, and probably replace a seal, but would this be a sign of any other problem? Or is it normal for the hand clutch handle to flip forwards and backwards some when letting out the foot clutch and putting power down to the wheels?
  8. A 9-speed would be cool. Honestly if I'd had a choice I would've rather not had the hand clutch on this tractor (due to parts availability - and probably not needing to do much PTO work) but if it keeps working fine, then I'm happy to have it.
  9. TN Hillbilly, so far I just never have been able to get too interested in pulling. Nothing against it but give me a choice between a pull and a plow day, and I'll be at the plow day. Who knows though... After I get this tractor fully operational, maybe I'll give it a whirl. Your tractor looks great with much less sun time on the paint than mine!
  10. I should state my goal for this tractor is to get it operational and caught up on maintenance - no paint or anything fancy at this point in time. I have about 20 acres of tillable to mess around with and I plan on disking with this tractor, and a few miles of brush cutting to do to make firebreaks for prescribed burning. Here's the SN plate for documentation.
  11. I bought this tractor about a month ago and asked some questions on the hand clutch, but figured I should keep track of other things in a separate project thread while I get it operational. The tractor did not run and I was told it had "TA" issues when I bought it. I'm an AC guy but I quickly figured out before I bought it that it does not have a TA, ha. So, my first focus was the hand clutch. It had a homemade cover plate on it that didn't hold position of the throwout bearing very well. Got a replacement cover and put that on there, adjusted the nut on the hand clutch, and then went to working on getting it running to test things out. One issue was no spark. I found the coil wired backwards (or probably as original, since the tractor was converted to 12V negative ground at some point) and then I swapped some ignition parts over from one of my ACs and ultimately removing the condenser gave me weak spark. I ordered a whole Tisco ignition kit and installed that, and finally had decent spark. Poured gas in, pulled the choke, and the tractor started right up. It drives forward and backwards pretty well now so I'm hoping the hand clutch was just in need of adjustment and the right cover. Now that I've gotten it to drive, I need to go through the rest of the tractor. I went through the owner's manual and looked over the tractor and came up with the list below, but being new to these red tractors, is there anything I've missed that commonly needs replaced? SAE 30 engine oil & Filter + change air cleaner oil and clean out mesh as needed 80W-90 oil for transmission Some sort of hydraulic fluid for engine-driven hydraulic system Air intake hoses PTO shaft seal Coolant and hoses Fan & Alternator belts Carb kit Valve cover gasket Distributor felt seal (already replaced rest of ignition parts) I have a number of other things that are lower priority (gauges, drawbar roller, switches, wiring, seat parts, etc.) that I plan on getting in the near future.
  12. A forum member was able to sell me a spare cover (thanks!) so I got that installed. It works much better than the machined homemade plate did. I also fixed up the lever by welding a grade 5 5/8-18 bolt that I cut off to the bottom of it. Using my fish scale I am somewhere just barely north of 30 lbs. of force to move the handle, which should be a good setting for not using the hand clutch based on feedback on here. I did tighten the adjustment nut slightly to achieve this. I should probably start a project thread for this tractor in the appropriate forum as I try to get it running. I stole some parts from one of my ACs and managed to get weak spark. The condenser i this tractor appears to be shot so I'm waiting on an ignition kit. Hopefully I will know soon enough whether the hand clutch plates are in good enough shape.
  13. So I looked around online and found a couple of different versions of the manual for these, and some showed a straight lever and some showed one like Binderoid's earlier picture that had the two bends down fairly low. So apparently both were made. Mine is probably a straight one unless someone torched out the bends. Good to know it may be a little easier to service than one for an older tractor with band brakes.
  14. I did enough searching around on here and found a few videos indicating it was possible. I'll have to see how it goes with my soil and in whatever shape this engine is in. Duals would be neat but I'm hoping I don't need them. Thanks for sharing your own experience. Sounds like I may be close to the limits. I am unlikely to be disking much plowed ground with the disk buried to the spools, so that should help. This would mostly be for (hopefully fairly shallow) tillage in wheat, milo, and bean stubble, plus some cover crops. At least that's the plan for a few years from now. 5 MPH sounds pretty good to me if the SM will do it! In what way could I not have stock gearing in this tractor? Was there a way to swap gears in them? It doesn't have an M & W 9 speed or anything like that, that would be obvious from the outside.
  15. So I spent a few minutes looking into the hand clutch tonight. Pulled the cover off and things actually looked better than I was afraid of. The adjustment nut was already unstaked and turned easily. I tightened it up slightly but didn't restake it yet. Looking at the homemade cover you can see the tab they screwed in to keep the throwout bearing from rotating around. The whole thing still floats around some as it doesn't fit tight in the clips, as you can hopefully see in the pictures below. I stuck a screwdriver in that gap between the clip and the cover in the top-down photo, just to take up the space, and that kept the cover from moving and let the throwout bearing do what I think it is supposed to. I can now get the lever to lock in the forward and rearward positions which I could not do before, because the lever was just rotating the whole throwout bearing around. Big thanks to Binderoid for the explanation of what the cover is supposed to do. I also attached a couple of pics of the broken clutch lever that came with the tractor... It doesn't have the bends in it as shown in Binderoid's photo, so maybe somebody already hacked it up. Looks easy enough to make a more proper looking one though. For now I'm using the perfect sized piece of pipe that was on it when I bought it. I'm not holding my breath that the cover is the only thing keeping this from functioning properly, but that would be the best case scenario! The guy I bought it from had previously referred to it as having possible "TA" issues but he wasn't an IH guy either. I was at least able to figure out this tractor didn't have a TA, haha. I have some leads on a cover thanks to the forum, too.
  16. Can't be too many of those around. Not that I go looking for them, but I've never even touched a Super H before. Saw a few at Jon Kinzenbaw's years ago.
  17. Thanks for all of the info. I'll try to get the cover off later tonight and take some pictures. There are some screws into it (yes, it's actually wood) that I suspect are holding something that serves this function. If I get it functional I would probably do what you mention - tighten it up to the high side of the spec and almost never use it.
  18. I had seen the Louisville serial number listings when I looked it up, but didn't understand the logic behind it - thanks! Looks like they made 11,500 or so Super Ms down there. Not rare by any means, but definitely a neat bit of history.
  19. Thank you sir! I'll have to get used to all your red posts and your profile pic over here, haha. The tires are pretty good other than a few lugs on one of the rears that are sort of delaminating in the outer layers. I hope they'll hold up and I won't have to shell out any money for tires for this tractor.
  20. I didn't even think about the hand clutches being different between an M and an SM... Darn. Guess that makes sense and will make things more difficult. Maybe I'll get a few minutes tonight to at least get the cover off and peek around. To be fair I don't plan on using it (most of my ACs have live PTO via their hand clutches for anything I'd want to run) so I'm probably looking for the path of least resistance - if the hand clutch only needs a couple of fairly straightforward and not too expensive things to get working, great. If not then maybe I convert back to factory parts.
  21. Hi all, to be up front I'm an AC guy but I always liked the looks of an M. I did my research and realized M hydraulics aren't too exciting (infinitely better than a WC back when these tractors were both new, to be fair) and decided to keep my eye out for a late M, SM, 400, or 450. Went to check out a WD-45 and the guy had a dead D-19 w/ loader and Super M sitting next to it. It turned over with a fresh battery but had no spark, and he said when it was running last it would barely move - he suspected some issue with the M & W hand clutch. I made him an offer on all three tractors and he ended up accepting it. One of the guys on the unofficial AC forum pointed me this way for the SM. I spent some time trying to find anything to help me ID the loader and eventually found a part number cast into the valve that ended in R1, which made me think it was an IH part number. Sure enough, turns out it's an IH 2000. I may make a separate post in the future about the pros and cons of putting that on the Super M someday. RE the hand clutch - someone must have lost the original cover as it has a homemade wooden one in it that doesn't fit great, and I suspect doesn't do whatever it's supposed to internally (guide a ball, hold a spring, whatever I'll find when I tear into it). So, I think I need to find a cover somewhere first before I go tearing it apart. The handle broke off at some point and I do have the rest of it that I'll weld back on eventually. Even just the stub sticking out is very loose and I can move it back and forth by hand, so there's almost no pressure on anything in there - I'll fix the cover and perform the clutch adjustment per the manual, but I wouldn't be surprised if the clutch plates are pretty worn out. Is anyone still making clutch disks for these? I found references to Vollbracht's in NE, but couldn't find any recent info on them, and Bates Corp but they have nothing listed on their website. I'm not needing any ASAP, but if these things can't be bought new, I might be better off finding the parts or a parts tractor to convert it back to factory and I'd rather know to start looking now. And, always ready to learn - if there's anything unique about this SM, or you see some things that obviously need attention, I'd appreciate that, too. The serial number is L-510599. PTO shaft is for sure leaking so that will get fixed after getting it running and whatever I have to do with the clutches. It sure has some massive wheel weights in the rear and I'm hoping it'll pull my 11.5' IH 470 disk someday.
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