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DR.EVIL

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  1. The '39 H's using the M/Super M filter is why Dad hung onto the '39 H so long, and the lack of Super H's on dealers lots or at auctions. The taller M/SM filter won't fit under the hyd tube or hose running back from the pump to the reservoir on SH/300/350. The last two filters I bought, a SH and an M filter did seem really expensive, one I know was over $20. Dad used BALDWIN filters for years, but he/we did 4-5 oil changes a year. I DO ONE. Hard to imagine how it can be so hard to keep track of 4-5 filters that fit everything from 1939 to 1960. Kinda like Chevy oil filters, PF-25 fits ALL except PF-35 fits all trucks except if you used a PF-35 on your car. I actually took the filter off the township's new '74 C-65 dumptruck with 366 big block home one day and IT would have fit my 307 small block but only left me about 4-5 inches of ground clearance. That filter extended below the frame and crossmember by 2-3 inches. PF-35 was plenty big. FL-1A fit all Ford V-8 & 6 cyl, and FL-1995 fit the Powerstroke diesel. I think some of the imported 4 cyl engines like the 1.6L & 2.0L 4 cyl OHC engines from Germany and England were different. I watched an episode of ENGINE MASTERS on TV, they tested the 10-12 most popular brands of oil filters in all the things they could easily test, oil psi, gpm of flow, smallest micron of filter media size. Tested all OEM filters, and 5-6 of the popular after-market filters. THE K&N Premium Performance filter had the finest filter media, flowed most GPM, lowest psi drop thru the filter, and was the one the three guys agreed would be their new favorite filter brand. Mine too! The K&N has a hex nut spot welded onto the end of the filter can, will make the filter easy to install/remove from my pickup.
  2. Both our Farmall 450 and the Money Pit 4010 had 15.5's. The 450 had nearly new Good-Year Super-Torque's, the zig-zag lugged tire, looked like Good-Year tired to imitate the Firestone Deep-Tread, big BEEFY lugs, 5 years of being the primary fieldwork tractor on 200 acres resulted in very little wear, duals were used on primary tillage, but I did do some plowing and disking without duals. The 4010 got a nearly new set of GY Power-Torque 15.5x38's a couple months after we got it. Eventually the injection pump got turned up to around 100 hp but we kept pulling a 4 bottom plow and 12 ft disk, and used the exact same duals used on the 450, in a gear about 1/2 mph faster than the 450 pulled the same implement. The Power-Torque's didn't seem to hook to the ground as good as the Super-Torque's, the extra HP probably caused that. The neighbor replaced the Power-Torque's we got with Firestone Deep-Treads on his 4020 with M&W turbo, he pulled 5-14's, an IH 500 series plow, and 15-16 ft Kewanee Disk. He was one of several guys around who NEVER ran duals. I'd have run duals on our Cub Cadet to mow the lawn except the 7 hp Kohler wouldn't have pulled a wide enough mower deck!
  3. Dad had a '56 F-350 step-side pickup, 292 and 4-spd. It had that silly exhaust cross-over pipe from the front of left bank to the front of the right bank, great thing to boil the gas out of the carb, fry the top radiator hose. I'm not sure why Dad tolerated all the problems that cross-over pipe caused. Dad ran it to town with the empty Heider auger wagon and picked up 5500# of hog feed, and before we left town we tossed 500# of bagged pellets for the creep feeders. And we STILL PASSED all the 6-cylinder Chevy pickups on the way home.
  4. CAST IRON drills like a " rotten banana" I once heard a machine shop owner say. I've used the peacocks on H's & M's for years, decades even, but the dipstick on the 450 was great. I thought IH had a Jig or fixture for drilling the blocks for dipsticks. Something could be faced up quick to get the angle right. The blocks have the flat where the tube should be cast into them. I forget what IH tractor came with a dipstick, the Industrials or the Orchard tractors.
  5. Whitey's Machine Shop in Milan, Illinois used to make those fan shafts. I forget what the steel was, Stress-Proof or Fatigue-Proof and the splines were "ROLLED-ON", and they were checked to be perfectly straight. They didn't want any wobble in that big heavy fan. It was a great idea, just a bit ahead of it's time because the new hardware wasn't available to make it work as good as it could. SON worked at Deere Davenport Works for 10 years, most of the time at the end of the grader line. Graders have an abundance of hydraulic flow & PSI, so their cooling fans are hydraulically driven, and are reversible on-the-go, HUGE fans too, there's engine oil, hyd oil, engine coolant, fuel coolers, and a couple other's I forget all depending on this fan. Lots more room under the hood on a grader than on a 5488. But a reverse rotation fan goes WAY back to the 1930's and '40's on IH tractors. And I bet the Deere hardware could be installed on 5X88's. The Deere fans rotate one way for a fixed time, then slow and stop, then rotate the other way.
  6. I mounted my AM/FM/cassette deck radio under the seat on my #72 facing forward. Headphones hang over the seat ready to wear.
  7. PETE would know for sure, but our '51 M had blind holes, the inside of the rearend raised up about an inch where the three bolts were. It was between 55 and 60 years ago Dad and I had that rearend apart.
  8. Buddy of mine went to college with Jon's daughter. He got a tour of "The Farm" years ago. Years ago when I went from East Moline to Des Moines every night I always thought that would be a neat place to visit.
  9. I normally read all these topics about truck wheels with lock rings. I got pretty good at fixing flats and changing tires in my early Teen years. I hauled in all our oats and earcorn, I could fix a flat and be back out in the field without really delaying things. All manual tools and a tiny air compressor. Dad did keep a pretty good supply of patches on hand. First time I was confronted with a truck rim with a lock ring was when I was hauling ready-mix. They had a tire cage, and all the breaker bars and sockets needed. I had seen truck tires fixed several times and survived my first repair. Dad used to buy old 1940's truck front axles from the local junkyard, and would weld the kingpins solid, make a non-steerable axle out of them, and use them on the 100 bushel augerwagon, water wagon we hauled 350 gallons of water to the hog lots with. Most were still spoke wheels, 3 pics rims. 7.00x20 tires which were replaced with 7.50x20's, tread was a pure luxury, if they held air you were good. I can't really remember ever having a flat. The neighbor needed a low profile axle for his Heider augerwagon and had DAD swap it in, and let Dad have his tall OEM Heider axle, single piece 6-bolt wheels for 8.25x20 truck tires. Lots of tires that size around cheap. That axle was under our augerwagon maybe 3 months when it snapped a spindle bouncing empty traveling across frozen ruts in a feedlot. It was drug up to the shop and parked and the old IHC truck steering axle put back on. If I remember correctly, Dad's 1956 F-350 single rear wheel pickup had 17" single piece wheels, 8-bolt hub. The 17" tires got to be impossible to find back in the early 1960's. The '60 Chevy C-20 had 16-1/2" tubeless single piece wheels, and the '67 F-250 had 16.5" single piece wheels too. The Chevy got a good pair of mud & snow tires that the Detroit Locker rearend promptly turned into slicks. The F-250 got a pair of Firestone Wide Oval truck tires on the rear, the Twin I-beam frt axle ground the outside edges of the front tires off real fast. The local car/truck/tractor/combine repair shop had a REAL good suspension guy that had been there for decades, I'm sure he could have fixed that truck. BUT I wasn't buying the tires.
  10. What's that box on the hood? The GPS screen so the guy could find his way out of his back yard? Dad drilled a HECK of a lot of holes in the hood of our 70, SON worked a whole day welding them up with the MIG welder. And the hood still looks great! I REALLY should put the decals on it, it will be a 100 if I do.
  11. I hope somebody's really proud of themselves painting an IH Cub Cadet green & yellow. Looks like crap. When Dad traded our Original in back in 1965 the dealer repainted it IH red & white, 2150 & 935 or whatever was correct. It sat under the awning in front of the dealership for a couple weeks, then disappeared. Was almost 40 years later Dad found out one of his coffee club and card playing clan members bought it and was still mowing with it.
  12. My buddy that drives for UPS said every semi they owned went into the shop to have deer whistles installed, and a couple months later went into the shop to have them removed.
  13. West Pullman Plant also made magnetos and distributors. I actually got inside the WP plant sometime in the early 1980's when I was driving semi, I'd spent the whole day shuttling trailers around before I finally got to load my paying load to pull home. I normally got paid hourly moving trailers around, seems like I got $8/hrs. It's days like that that caused me to carry a duffle bag FULL of detailed maps of Chicago showing every one of the low clearance bridges and overpasses across the whole Chicago area. I never got back to the one low bridge by the Stockyards a second time, but with my usual 13-1/2 ft high trailers going westbound I had to stop before the bridge, let east bound traffic clear, drive across all 4 lanes of traffic and down next to the curb and slowly creep under the bridge. First Rule of driving semi around Chicago, "If in doubt, turn your 4-ways on and just DO IT." The livestock trailers Dad pulled were only 12-1/2 ft high, the old Stockyards area was full of grocery/food warehouses, I picked up a semi-load of noodles at one, was within a block of The STONE GATE that I'd been by with Dad a couple Thousand times.
  14. Never had time to check out how they tied dozers down to trucks at Melrose Park. But at the tractor docks at FARMALL they used Very HEAVY gage wire, something bigger than #9 wire that they would run several loops from the tractors and down to the trailer, and I never had time to watch them but they had some sort of tool, maybe electric or maybe air powered that twisted those loops till tight, and those tractors were REALLY tied tight to the trailers. Those wire loops would be very hard to see in a photograph. One EARLY MORNING I'm jumping on I-280 off Rt 61 on the west side of Davenport, Iowa. Can't remember if I was getting an early start to a day or if a big day grew into the start of the next day, but a 20,000# coil of steel came loose on a trailer to the point it fell off the trailer, looked like it sunk a foot into the ground. I've done enough trailering to know I'm real happy I haven't done a lot of it. Hauling groceries and the occasional load of tires or rims was much easier.
  15. Dad had one for the M he put the 2M-E picker on, think he mounted it ONE year out of 20 that I remember, but by the looks of it, it had been on a year or two more than that. I think it was included in the IH Corn Picker attachment package with the pre-screener air filter intake, the steel sediment bowl to replace the glass one, glass breaks if it gets fire near it, leaking gasoline makes a bad fire a total disaster. There were other parts in that package too.
  16. As to IF your new SM will pull your 11-1/2 ft IH disk, a very educated guess on my part is.....Maybe. Your rear tires and those BIG rear weights will help. Dad tried pulling a 14 ft Krause disk with his new to him Super M-TA, when he bought M&W direct axle duals he could finally pull it. We pulled that disk some with the JD R diesel, but only old corn ground, disking any plowed ground was done with the SM-TA with duals. The spring we got the 450 Farmall we also got a new Kewanee 12 ft 4 inch disk, 450 with duals just played with it. In fact, disking stalks to plow I disked some of our leveler fields in 4th gear, 6-1/2 mph. Assuming you still have stock gearing, 3rd gear is 5 mph, 2nd is 3.8 mph. Hope you can run in 3rd. Maybe carry a little weight of the disk on the tires in plowed ground.
  17. I got there about 8:05 and I was far from the first. And they were ready for a crowd. Several IH parts & collectable suppliers set up stands. Plus a food stand. They had a shuttle hay rack to run people over to their other farm and see tractors in sheds there. Those guys are going to be Millionaires when this is done.
  18. Somewhere I got the idea the inspection time started at 8 AM too. I haven't been to a Red Power Round-up since it was in Madison in 2009, haven't been to an auction since some time in the early 1990's, was 25 degrees below zero, my Buddy met me at FARMALL LAND in Avoca, Iowa on Saturday morning 2 weeks before they closed, the place was packed, over 500 paid attendance by about 12:30, place was packed with people, we left. I owe myself another IH event. Supposed to be REAL nice tomorrow, I'm taking my camera!
  19. GEE, ALL these farming things I never learned because we never had any rocks where I grew up! We DID have one stray slab of concrete right behind the house and south of the barn that you could catch with a plow if you plowed too deep. The neighbor had a backhoe, first one was a International 300 loader&hoe, then he upgraded to a slightly newer but much better Case Construction King, can't remember which hoe he used but the concrete and most of the buildings are gone.
  20. ACTUALLY - The front wheel castings on M's & H's are hollow, a quart of 85W-90 inside each frt wheel is WAY better than any grease for the wheel bearings. Dad had the frt wheels on his M set out wider when I got it, not sure why, I never cared for that look, so I pulled the frt wheels off and set them in narrow. The grease seals were probably the factory Originals, and I found out why, the new seals were over $20 each, but just like on semi-trailers and big truck steering axles oil lubed wheel bearings run for a million miles or more. The front wheels make half a revolution and oil starts dripping onto the bearings. I haven't been into the frt wheels of my SH to see if he put heavy oil in them, it mostly runs in winter pushing snow. Those little sealed front wheel bearings on Cub Cadets could really benefit from using heavy oil too, when I used my 36" snow blower for snow removal I tore-up a fairly new pair of wheel bearings in 5-6 years. The Cubbies spend the winter in the shop now.
  21. I agree with KSFarmdude, if you use the M in winter 85W-90 is best. SON put every moving part brand new into his '93 Lightning pickup, with 8.8" Traction-Loc rear. He replaced the Traction-loc with some sort of Detroit Locker clutched diff that recommended 85W-140 gear oil. He got a quart too much, had it sitting around the shop, my hydraulic bottle jack (old) was leaking around the piston rod, making a mess where ever it sat, I drained the mixed mess of oil and put some of that 85W-140 in it. The leak stopped, and at any shop temp below about 35 degrees the jack itself stopped working, the oil wouldn't flow from the reservoir around the body of the jack into the piston pump, oil just too thick! No imagine your M sitting in a machine shed, temps in the 20's, you start the tractor and drive around to do chores, feed a couple hay bales, whatever, the rearend of all M's & H's have cast in troughs to catch oil and run it to the bearings, in the case of the transmission pilot bearing between the input shaft and the sliding gear shaft with the differential pinion on the back end of the shaft, the oil has to flow thru a small, maybe 1/8th inch hole to get into that pilot bearing. That oil isn't going to get in there very fast! The 85W-90 would be a better choice. Ford Motor Co. About 1998 changed it's recommendation of every car and truck to use an 85W-140 synthetic oil, my '96 F-250 came with 80W-90 synthetic that was really thin when it got hot after lots of fast highway miles, rearend ran around 200 degrees F. A video of the 85W-140 synthetic oil flowing in the diff made it's way over the Internet, it was flowing REALLY fast, oiling the pinion bearings really well and the diff bearings and wheel bearings too. Guess that's why the only repair I've done in 320,000 miles is replace the pinion seal.
  22. The 6 inch piece of an H,SH,300,350 axle bar, 2-1/2" diameter slides nicely inside a 3 ft length of 2-1/2" pipe, weld around the inside diameter of the pipe and you have an accident proof steel post driver. Not sure how many Dad had but I've got 2 and I haven't made any fence in years.
  23. The idler or tensioner pulley is a sealed bearing, some last a long time, some only a short time. I hope you replaced the little coiled tensioning spring on the tensioner arm, EVERY ONE I've even taken apart the spring was broken. They will work for a while when broken but best for the belt to replace the spring.
  24. Ha-Ha. Yep, that 1091 Cid 6 cyl was biggest diesel OR gas. Guy around here has one mounted on an older IH running gear he tows around to fairs and tractor shows.
  25. I made up my mind to buy a Miller plasma cutter. Went in to my local welding supply shop, guy behind the counter hemmed & hated, then said, " You should probably buy a Hypertherm, you'll always be able to get parts for them. It's a Hyperthem 40, haven't used it a whole lot but it does cut thinner steel really quick. I'd like to get a cutting table but don't think 40Amp is enough power to justify it. I've had it over 20 years, maybe more like 23-24.
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