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Fungus

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  1. If you mean the friction material, I am unsure. I can't find part numbers for the friction material, and I can't even really figure out where to ask. If you mean the shoe and back-up pad, these are very large pieces with integrated bearings. The following video shows what they look like:
  2. Hi folks, I thought that starting a new thread for this particular issue would be wise. Per the discussion in this (LINK) thread, I need to have my shoes and backup pads relined. I have gotten quotes from several places, but they want $1500 to do 8 friction plates. This is pretty high, even for right now. If I am to approach local places about doing it, they need information regarding the friction material thickness. I can't seem to find this anywhere. One of the members was kind enough to measure his when new, 0.145"-0.147" (thanks @Kevingweq!). I could go off of this, but I am curious if anyone here has worked in one of these shops to know where to get the information regarding thickness and material type. These are wet friction pads. I must admit that I am tempted to do these myself. I have a shop oven and a hydraulic press, and at the moment I have more time than money. I've done dry riveted pads in the past which have held up well; I know these are different critters but if you read the datasheets well on adhesive and lining and follow directions precisely, I don't see why this couldn't be an in-house operation. Thanks for any tips, I really appreciate it. Part numbers (notice that the shoe assemblies have matching part numbers, as do the back-up shoes)(thanks @vtfireman85for the manual pages!): Brake shoe assembly: 1244 967 H91 Brake back-up shoe: 1244 903 H91 Steering shoe assembly: 1244 967 H91 Steering back-up shoe: 1244 903 H91 If I could just get OEM part numbers for the liners, I could reach out to more shops.
  3. Blast. Those don't cross-reference, the part numbers are only for the whole shoe. Thank you for those.
  4. @vtfireman85, I'll give them a call and see what they say. So far I have 2 quotes in at $1500 each not including shipping. You wouldn't happen to have the part number for the pad material or assembly (brake shoe, brake back-up shoe, clutch shoe, clutch back-up shoe) would you? I think I might have found a cross-reference: https://www.protecfriction.com/wet-friction-plates
  5. @vtfireman85, you're a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you for these pages, I'm going to read through all this in the evening. I have sent out for quotes to several places, waiting to see what they say for pricing. One place I saw said they wanted $1500 😵 (brakes and clutches for both sides, 8 pieces total) with a 2-week leadtime. I've looked into relining dry/riveted brake pads before (for my MF2244 steering brakes, other project) but these are wet friction plates. If I could find the appropriate wet friction material and the appropriate adhesive, I really can't see why this couldn't be an in-house operation. Seems like a lot of the bonding materials require a baking process, but I can't imagine that this requires super-precise temperature control that a standard kitchen oven wouldn't have (I've got one in the shop for preheating and powdercoating).
  6. The above video answers one of my previous questions... Of the five "drain plugs" on the bottom of the rear housing, the center is for draining the fluid; the other four are for pushing out the lower eccentric shaft bearings.
  7. @vtfireman85, that is very helpful! Thank you. I ran across a guy on another forum that told me definitively that I was having "steering brake" issues. I need to look at a mechanical breakdown of this thing, but apparently it does not use "steering clutches" as I am used to on other machines that disengage the primary power from the input to the final drives; it uses some kind of planetary gear from what I can gather that must have some form of synchronizer involved. Regardless, there is an external adjustment for the track brakes behind the sprockets, and there's an internal adjustment for the "clutching brakes"(?) inside the PTO cover on the back of the machine. I adjusted my internal screws in about a turn on each side, but that was all I had. I took it for a very short spin and it did steer better, but I do suspect that I need more adjustment. I need to pull the pads and get them relined. I came across this video (for a TD-7C) where the guy is doing the same job. From what I saw yesterday, you have a couple options: drain the fuel tank and pull it out (trivial) or remove the steering lever plate and all the hydraulic hoses from under the seat (non-trivial). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIywZIFS5DU
  8. Hmm. I don't have anything that looks like a regulator under the seat; only the steering spool I rebuilt and a bunch of hoses/lines. I dropped the skid plate yesterday and monkeyed around for a couple hours inspecting hoses and checking that fasteners are tight. I didn't see anything resembling one there either... When I looked in the battery box, the only hydraulics present there are the transmission pressure filter and the gear selection spool. I had gotten an inline pressure gauge (JIC F-M with a tee to a guage port), but I got it in JIC-10. The clutch/brake ports are JIC-8 🤬 That's what I get for not paying attention. I'll be keeping/working in this gal for a while, so I'll grab a few tee sizes. I pulled the suction strainer, I was wrong about the fluid draining from the transmission here if it's full. I barely had a few drips other than what was in the bowl. It was very nasty in there, fingers crossed that this was the problem. Why the h3ll would the transmission guy not look here? Makes me wonder if the problems the P.O. had were due to the suction strainer. On the other hand, I don't know if the garbage in there would be enough to restrict the flow; that strainer has a lot of surface area. On a side note, an alarming thing is that the strainer had a lot of short brass wires stuck in it. Hopefully none made it past. Maybe someone in its history cleaned something in the transmission with a brass wire wheel (they seemed sharpened/worn on one end)? Surely the transmission friction plates aren't impregnated with brass wire? One other thing: there is what looks like a NPT-threaded (maybe 3/4") port on the bottom of the torque converter housing. The plug was gone! Just wide open. I assume this is an inspection port, I don't see any fluid trails from here and I'd really be in the twilight zone if the torque converter housing was flooded with fluid. Can I just put any old plug in here? It'd be just my luck that I got a rock or something up in there (in spite of having a skid plate). Thanks again for the help folks.
  9. @vtfireman85, that is one good looking machine! Great catch! I will certainly bug you for specific manual pages if I come across one I need. I looked at BinderBooks, but haven't found anything yet. Ebay may be my best friend for manuals. @junkandcattle, do you think that regulator is in the battery box? I was in there today looking at the transmission pressure filter, but I didn't notice anything that looked like that. Unless it was directly attached to the powershift valve. The pressure filter looked good, but it looks like I'll need to drain the transmission to get to the suction strainer (it is below the line of the full transmission). It is under my right foot, at first glance it looks like a remote spin-on cartridge filter, but it actually bolts onto the mount with four bolts. Does this sound normal for the shorty transmission (long driveshaft)? This is the replacement strainer: https://lenzinc.com/product/5062-60 Oddly, when I pulled the transmission pressure filter (in the battery box), there were just a few drips of clear water that dripped out. The fluid was mostly clear, clean oil with the occasional whisp of what looks to me like water-contaminated oil. The dipstick does have some indications of water contamination (milky) on the upper part of the stick, which I _kind of_ expect to happen since the breather is on the dipstick tube. It would pull condensation in there. @junkandcattle's story of the plugged hydraulic reservoir makes me wonder just how much water-contaminated gook might be hiding in the suction screen. One other question: I have what look like 5 drain plugs on the bottom of the final drives (the same casting where I fill the transmission oil). Is the center for the transmission, and one on each side for final drive and wet clutches?
  10. Junkandcattle, Thanks a ton for your help on this, and especially for sharing your manual pages. My valve was built exactly the same as shown, with the exception of dust bellows. It was closed center, so this loop must have a variable displacement pump. I took that valve off because it was leaking pretty bad around the shaft wipers. The top orings were very hard and loose around the shaft. There _could_ be clutch cylinder pressure loss associated with this, but I didn't see any internal seals that could fail to open the clutch position to the drain port (causing internal pressure loss). I'm putting it back on the machine hopefully tomorrow (with new seals) and throwing the gauge on the line there just to see what's going on at the clutch cylinders. What fluid are you using for your transmission? Are you checking the transmission level while a gear is engaged and holding the brake as I've heard some people claim? That "Hydraulic Oil Flow Description" page you posted is very handy. It looks like the transmission hydraulics are what supplies the steering spool. It sounds like the primary regulator valve for the transmission/steering spools is set at 165 PSI, so that would be a good place for me to check too. Thanks a ton for your help!
  11. I could be wrong, but I believe these are closed-center controls in a 4-way 3-position valve since I didn't see a relief valve on the controls (and junkandcattle didn't see a relief valve in the parts list); that makes me assume its a variable displacement pump for the hydraulics. Please correct me if I'm wrong!
  12. Thanks junkandcattle for those part numbers (and part quantity, I expect that one of those four orings might be the culprit). Oddly this doesn't have any dust boots, or even shoulders to push them up on. Just a flat surface with holes drilled for the piston rods. Did you happen to see any description of that valve in standard nomenclature (diagrams or anything, such as in the linked picture)? It completely unloads the engine when I have one of these situations, which is another reason why I feel that both clutches are disengaging. No bogging down at all. Hydraulic oil is fine (it says to use engine oil, I currently have 10W30 in there), the transmission is reading fine as well (15W40). I've gotten conflicting info on checking the transmission level, some places say to check it while running and out of gear, some while cold and engine off. Engine running but out of gear should not have any affect on the transmission oil level I would think? Pressure filter is fresh, but I haven't found/checked the suction screen. I'll check that if I can figure out where it is. I _kind of_ doubt that this is the problem though, as I experience the same symptoms when on level ground with a loaded blade.
  13. A similar (or same?) valve can be seen in illustration 15 of the following photo:
  14. I could be missing something here, but I believe this is part of the reason for a torque converter/fluid coupling. The machine pushes well, and stalls the tracks at appropriate situations to prevent breaking something. To answer your question regarding the driveshaft, if the tracks are stalled while pushing hard, the driveshaft stops turning, indicating (to me) that there is slip in the torque converter. It pushes fine, end of story, no worries there. The issue I am trying to deal with, and the reason for quoting @Kevingweq is that when the machine is under load (traveling uphill or with material on the blade), pulling one steering lever causes both tracks to lose power. What I am guessing is that there is some issue in the spool valve that controls both clutch/brake cylinders that's causing one lever to actuate both clutches. After looking at it today, I found that it does indeed have a combined spool for both steering levers. It has 6 ports: D (I assume "Drain") M (I assume "Motor") BR (Brake Right) BL (Brake Left) CR (Clutch Right) CL (Clutch Left) I'm going to see if I can get my hands on an inline pressure gage to put in one of the clutch ports and watch it in one of these steering conditions. In the meantime, does anyone have a part number for that spool valve or an appropriate rebuild kit for it?
  15. I apologize, maybe I was not clear. The original post had two questions: First: I did mention that I can't push past roots, this was inexperience on my part. These yellow pine roots are tough, and I doubt that even a much larger machine would be able to push through/past them. If the dirt is very loose, it will spin the tracks; my mistake was that the section I was on had some rocks under the mud that the tracks were gaining traction on. The second part of the original post is what I am now attempting to address. That issue is the inability to steer under load (whether driving uphill or with a loaded blade).
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