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SI Super M

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nashville Illinois
  • Interests
    I like to restore anything mainly railroad signals also have a 1973 toro snowblower.
    I help out at the Fire Department.
    I just like machines.

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  1. Thank you all for the replies. I have order this https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC533-Diode-with-2-Spade-Plug from Steiner Tractor Parts. I would have ordered the one from amazon but I didn't see the post until after I ordered it. I will let you know how it goes and I may have more questions in the future.
  2. Thanks for all of the responses. Sorry about the confusion....I am using a Delco alternator (not a generator). I don't have a keyed switch...just the push-pull, on-off kill switch. Reading the above posts, I've got three more questions (sorry). 1. Does anyone have a part number, picture, or recommendation for where to get the diode for the number 1 wire? 2. I'm a little confused on black/white wire recommendations. If I understand correctly, I should remove my white wire and connect the black wire directly between the alternator and the coil. If I do this, do I still need the diode? Since I've bypassed the kill switch, how do I turn off the tractor? 3. If I remove the black wire from the lights/ammeter box, do I still have a complete circuit to charge the battery while the tractor is running or do I have to use a key-switch to utilize this box?
  3. I appreciate your response Snoshoe. However, if I remove the black wire (which currently connects between the coil and the lighting panel/ammeter assembly) and route the white wire between the coil and generator, how will I turn off the coil once the engine starts? Doesn't the coil wire have to route through the "run" switch? I've been using the following diagrams for reference. As far as I can tell, none of them show any diodes. The 12VoltAlternatorConversion diagram is the closest to what I currently have in place (generator, ignition coil, lighting/ammeter box, and NO regulator). Do I need to move the top-left red wire (marked "To Run Switch") in the Lights-Ballast-Fuse-AmmeterBox photo to the terminal on the right where the black wire (marked "To Generator") is located? That would keep the field side of the generator connected to the lighting box and then route it through the Run switch to the coil. Sorry to be so challenged on this. I appreciate everyone's patience and guidance.
  4. Hello, I'm trying to re-wire my Farmall M tractor since some of the wires were broken or missing. I've studied several wiring diagrams but I can't find one that is exactly like my configuration. I'm posting four pictures of how I've attempted to wire it but I was wondering if someone could review the pictures and give me feedback before I plug in the battery I've wired the positive terminal of the starter to the left side of the Start pushbutton switch (see the Start-Switch picture). The other side of the switch goes to the positive terminal of the battery and also to the ammeter box. At the ammeter box (see the Lights-Ballast-Fuse-Ammeter picture) I've got the other side of the ammeter going to the positive terminal of the generator and also to the Run push-pull switch (red wires). The negative terminal of the generator also comes into this box and is wired to (I believe) the ballast (see black wire in picture)? The other side of the Run switch goes to the coil (white wire of Run Switch picture). Can anyone see any problems with this configuration? Thanks for your help. Let me know if this doesn't make sense. Luke
  5. So you are my location competition on Facebook Market place?
  6. You understand correctly. I will buy a switch. I will look closer next time at what voltage it is.
  7. The tires are a good matching set but the tubes won't hold air. I am going to the tire shop on Saturday to see what we can do.
  8. I think I will this Sunday.
  9. What would you recommend then? Also does anyone have any idea how to clean out the old oil?
  10. I realize now its hard to see but the "plug" on the right is for a key but the actual ignition is missing from inside. So it is 12 volt?
  11. More questions I have are what is the thing on the axle? It is not on the other side. What is the easiest way to fix the wiring? How can I rewire it back to original? What is the hydraulic cylinder below used for? Would this disk go with the M? Here are the rest of the photos.
  12. I just got back from visiting the tractor and have more pictures. I also bought it today for $400. I think I may have found the front mount cultivator but I am not sure. We also opened the valve cover to take a look at things. How does it look? How do I go about cleaning that up? The pushrods aren't bent thankfully. We cranked it over some more to see everything move and it does. I didn't put an seafoam in yet. Also how do the fuel tank and radiator look? I will have another post with more pictures and questions later. I greatly appreciate all the help I have been getting.
  13. It can really do that much damage? We didn't crank it hard we just slowly rolled it to see if it was stuck.
  14. We tried the hand crank last time and the motor was free. Would it still be a bad idea to try it with gas? Would seafoam work for the lube?
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