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Everything posted by Cdon_FL

  1. UPDATE ---- I took all my busted pieces to a local driveline shop here in my city. owner who looked at it said what I have is China-made knock off of an Italian PTO shaft design. The china metal used to make the yoke is a substandard casting and porous metal -- broke easily. =============== photos show failed yoke. and the place in my field where it failed. 45 HP tractor with a 5 foot cutter running at about 1500 RPM into a rise in the dirt while mowing the grass. No stumps within 100 feet of the failure site - cross my heart. I'm 56 years old and around tractors all my life. I think I know use vs abuse and I really was not running it hard. Surprised at this kind of failure, even from a budget-priced overseas part. Internet retailer in GA told me to pound sand, they don't sell junk, etc etc. Am I expecting too much ?
  2. I am the OP. And as of Sunday (fingers crossed) I have the leaks all stopped. Confirmed this with some field mowing in mid day FL heat yesterday. I had the pipes off MULTIPLE times to braze them up but apparently I was never putting brazing rod in the exact right spot until this last time. I have been able to remove both pipes without removing the seat of the big plate under the seat. I did have to remove the tunnel cover of course and also the drivers side heel panel. I had to disconnect but not remove some of the other pipes under the tunnel cover and also disconnect the gear shifter rod. but I did it some many times I got pretty good at it, LOL. My pinholes were tiny. would not leak until after the oil was hot and thin. Getting a good close up look at the pipes while still connected and the tractor warmed up would have helped me find the pinhole sooner. but I got in a hurry at first and just pulled them off assuming that the leak points would be apparent on inspection. Not so. After I got the leaking pipe off this last time I sprayed some thin penetrating oil into it and then rigged up my shop air nozzle to pressurize the pipe with my thumb over the other end. Looking very very closely with double stack readers on I was able to see the wet spot forming on the pipe. I used a tiny sharp object to enlarge the pin hole a bit to help the brazing get into it better. putting in a shallow hacksaw groove would have done the same thing. wire brush everything bright of course and get as much oil residue out of the area before beginning your brazing. LESSON FOR YOU -- pull your tunnel cover off ASAP and blow out that area good to clear it from damp holding detritus. and look carefully for places where the pipes are rubbing against one another or on the tractor frame or cover from vibration over the years. Fix that before they get so thin they leak.
  3. my 464 has started dripping hydraulic from under the seat after it's warmed up and working hard. appears to be from pinholes in the undersides of the steel lines that run from the hydraulic pump and filter down on the left side of hat on top of the tunnel and forward to the steering controller and brakes and cooler (?) I am going to keep trying to braze up these pin holes but buy may past efforts have not been 100% successful. there's a lot of plumbing crammed into the small space under the tunnel cover. and 50+ years of lines rubbing against each other and against the trans tunnel PLUS rust from condensation sitting on them many thousands of times over many years. Any experience with this problem? I'd rather not replace the lines if they can be fixed or retrofitted with hoses. Should I keep trying with the brazing? (It's not fun removing the lines and putting them back on after each brazing session.)
  4. Maybe I should hook up the 5 ft mower deck and then get it positioned where I want it (a bit to one side, perhaps, to get the cutting swath outside one of the rear wheels an inch or two) then measure the distance I need between the holes in the bar. (??)
  5. Anybody made their own stabilizer bar for a 464? I am tired of my rotary cutter swinging so much from side to side. One bar should do it. I have a cutting torch and drill press, but what thickness of flat steel do I need ? and does anybody have the center to center distance for the holes on each end? Or does this part NEED to be adjustable?
  6. Thanks to all !! -- I think I got it ordered. $9 for the hose plus $13 shipping. Using the casting number for my 464's manifold was the nugget. Knowing my Model number of 464 was no help. The one I ordered says for a 454 but no mention of 464. Wish me luck ! https://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/Ih-454-diesel-1-1.html
  7. Funny. When I do a google for the casting number of the coolant manifold.... I am shown a hose that looks like what I need with that same number as the part number https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS5179-Inlet-Hose
  8. Nebraska -- I zoomed in on my orig photo. Looks like coolant manifold casting number is 3 0 5 5 2 5 4 R 1. has three runners into the head. if that matters. parts diagram that Farmall Fan posted above looks diff than what I have. part #11 hose looks right, but my coolant manifold looks dissimilar to what's in that diagram.
  9. Generally true, JACKA, and thanks for the note, but I am not planning for a constant slipping of the clutch pack. Clearly that's bad, leading to expensive. My question was RE a slip that happens under unusual shock loading from the mower hitting something it does not cut through AND THAT that does not break the grade 8 shear bolt I am thinking about putting on the mower. Would the tractor PTO clutch slip before something inside the bowels of the tractor broke? I presume that the clutch slips a tiny bit each and every time I engage it. If not it would not be a clutch, LOL ! But I take your point.
  10. Anybody have a definitive part number for the stubby coolant hose in the photo below ? (Early 70s IH 464 diesel with D179 engine.) Is there more than one kind of this hose for D179 engines? Notice my coolant manifold has 3 runners. And that seems to matter in my web searching for this hose. And the inlent and outlet are different diameters. I can find a hose that LOOKS A LOT like what I need online, but the "what models this fits" list for those does not include 464. TIA from NE FL.
  11. I am the OP. I'm going to drill out the pin bore to the next larger size (9/16 dia) to eliminate the "fishmouthing" of the holes on the collar that slides over the smooth round gearbox shaft. I will then insert a grade Five 9/16 cap screw as shear pin and mow some more. Will report back.
  12. Twas no harm in asking me Dirt Floor Poor and I appreciate yall throwing ideas my way. And I am trying to not be offended, LOLOLOLOL ! Diameter of the bolt is 1/2". wrench size for the hex head is 3/4"
  13. MidnightMan -- Thanks. The holes in the hub over the gearbox shaft ARE a little wallared out. Chamfered, or elongated on the top and bottom of the hole you might say. Could be part of my problem. Maybe I should drill both pieces out to the next size up and and put a larger dia low grade bolt in there ?
  14. this looks like the ticket ...... ??? add one of these clutch packs on to the back of my tractor and put the heaviest bolt I can find in the shear pin hole. https://www.gaequipment.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SC-QD-QD&Click=2686&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=shoppingengine&gclid=CjwKCAjwjZmTBhB4EiwAynRmD33RUa8qjnDO6qS24tI-4goWCHw_dErwg5ZrmlvaqOLR1_C-jAcQORoCJWcQAvD_BwE
  15. 3 cyl 1970s diesel 464 (about 45 HP) and I just added a new-to-me 5 ft rotary cutter on back. I am shocked at how easily the shear pin in the mower's PTO shaft breaks. I have used tractors and mowers for many years and I've never had a set up that was so fragile. Even in grass and sand I am breaking sacrificial shear pins at the mower's gearbox. Mower manufacturer (Land Pride) specs a 1/2 dia bolt that is Grade 2. Grade 2 breaks very easily I found. I talked with a Kubota mechanic and he says lots of people run a Grade 5 bolt instead. I promise I'm really not abusing it and I broke the grade 5 bolt on Saturday. I'm thinking now of moving up to grade 8 bolt. Question -- does the hydraulically operated PTO clutch in the tractor offer any slippage protection in this case? I would much rather break the mower gearbox than the tractor of course. Can I roll the dice with a grade 8 bolt and count on the tractor's PTO clutch to slip before the tractor breaks?
  16. LOL. I had a box blade on it last night grading my driveway after all this dang NE Florida rain ! ---------- This tractor is destined for my brother in law and his wife with a little 10 acre hobby farm SE of atlanta near Concord GA. Field mowing and grading mostly is its future. Maybe a little roto-tilling of his garden patch a few times per year. He's not super mechanical, and he lives 5 hours away from me, so I need this tractor to be pretty reliable before I give it to him. So I won't have to go up there just to work on his tractor!
  17. I am the OP. got this radiator fixed at a local rad shop for about $80 in Jacksonville FL. it's not a beauty queen but holds pressure and now allows easy to access to the cap with the hood on. Happy camper. https://www.google.com/maps/uv?pb=!1s0x88e5b9a8b8cae883%3A0xe292728c930c4a4f!3m1!7e115!4shttps%3A%2F%2Flh5.googleusercontent.com%2Fp%2FAF1QipOGxpjUMqNupSPM5wMtYMvl6bfQAYjVDTT7b5md%3Dw132-h160-k-no!5shubberts radiator jacksonville FL - Google Search!15sCgIgAQ&imagekey=!1e10!2sAF1QipOGxpjUMqNupSPM5wMtYMvl6bfQAYjVDTT7b5md&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi_5Y-Crv32AhWfm2oFHQSgAmgQoip6BAhPEAM
  18. Sorting out a new to me 464 diesel. Lift seems fine but leveling crank on the right side does not work. It's not crusty stuck. It will turn some but feels like it's stripped. How should I think about this, please ? is it likely an easy fix or should I replace ? and if I replace, where's good source? This will be a working tractor. Not a restoration. Thanks !
  19. Rewiring my 464 diesel with factory that has an internally regulated GM alternator -- What is the purpose of the ceramic resistor on this tractor in the charging system? And what wire (from where to where) should the resistor be in line with ? Is it really needed? I have wired GM alternators to tractors before with no resistor in the system. I have the 464's charging system rewired and working fine (14.5 volts per my multimeter). Just realized I did not include the resistor in my rewiring.
  20. planning to build some kind of front guard for my 464. what size bolts do I need for the mounting bosses ? is it 9/16 diameter coarse thread ?
  21. Right. I do not have any load connected while testing. I just put power to the batt input tab via an alligator clip from the batt and then reading voltages of the various tabs with my voltage tester while moving the switch into the various notches. My 464 does not have high vs low beam headlights. Only two prongs on each of the headlight bulbs. Per my wiring diagram (gas version) one of the tabs related to the resistor goes to instrument panel illumination and the other tab goes to headlights. I assume that for these two connected tabs, the no resistance tab should go to headlights and the tab with some ohms on it should go to the instrument lights. Thanks for your typing.
  22. I'm rewiring a new-to-me diesel 464. I gutted all the old wiring, then rewired the engine and key switch, and am now focused on the rotary light switch. The rotary light switch has an ALL OFF position (of course) on the far left and then three additional SOMETHING IS ON notches as I turn the knob clockwise. What do each of the three ON notches control, please (?) Using my powerprobe tool (you need one of these, BTW) it appears to me that..... FIRST ON NOTCH gives batt voltage to BOTH of the two tabs that have the spiral wire resistor (I assume?) linking them on the back of the switch. I am getting same voltage on both tabs with switch in the first ONnotch. What do each of these two connected tab do, please? And why the resistor if voltage is the same on both tabs? This is an alternator tractor, BTW, if that matters. Is the resistor a hold over from earlier vintage tractors using a generator and voltage regulator? SECOND ON NOTCH keeps both tabs above hot PLUS adds power to another of the tabs. What is this third hot tab for, please? THIRD / LAST on NOTCH removes power from all of the above but gives power to the last tab on the back of the switch. What's this third / last notch for please? -------- (I have a wiring diagram for a 464 gas) and that's been helpful.
  23. I think I was just seeing solder at the joint that broke off. And assumed that dull silver color was aluminum. My local radiator guy was not exercised in the least when I dropped it off for him to fix. But I don't have it back yet. Tanks are all brass I assume, vs straight copper. The brass extension tube is joined with brazing to the top tank. and at the top of that tube is brazed on a preformed brass "socket" of sorts with flat bottom and the notches and rolled flange lip for the rad cap. Don't let a tree fall on your tractor. Makes trouble.
  24. update..... radiator is at a local old school shop. he says its all real metal and he can fix it.
  25. I can pull up on the handle and it pulls up tight nearly to the top notch and it locks there with the cable under tension. Makes me think the parking brake is ON (but tractor is not running at the moment and I cannot lean against the parking brake with power). But when I pressure up the handle and release the pawl and then push the handle back down to release the parking brake, the cable core moves just a sliver in the release retract / in direction. The handle falls away from the cable core in other words. Seems like the adjusting nut on the cable core should never be loose and sloppy in the pull handle.
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