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Solocam8925

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Posts posted by Solocam8925

  1. Questions. I was disking the fields with my 1270. After I finished.i noticed air and liquid coming out from the rear right inside tire. The tires basically flat. Do you guys think I can still drive it 9 miles to the tire shop with a good tire from the dual wheels on the right side ??

  2. 1 hour ago, stronger800 said:

    Does it go up when you rev the tractor up? And then down slightly when you turn the lights on (turn the cab fan on as well if you have one) and then recover? Those things indicate that the alternator is doing its job. If the needle on your gauge just stays steady at 12 to 13, that means you’re just reading the battery  but not charging voltage

    I did not rev it. 1600??

  3. On 9/22/2022 at 7:57 PM, stronger800 said:

    You did not use it correctly.   Hook the negative terminal to the chassis of the tractor. Hook the positive to the positive wire on the starter, or on the positive post of the battery that goes directly to it. When you push down and hold the button on the tester as to apply a load, if your batteries are dead you should see the needle dive and read as such. Now, Let off the button observe where the needle is. Start the tractor. (Use your Jump pack or whatever). Observe needle. It should be at 13.5a or so.  There is an area on the gauge that is labeled “charging”, It will be towards the right hand side of the scale.  13.5a, Maybe higher, Since your batteries are low and the alternator is working harder to charge them. If it’s working. The needle should jump slightly and rise slightly when you Rev the tractor up, and down when you rev it way down. It should drop slightly and then recover when you turn the lights on. If it doesn’t, your alternator is bad

    Did it your way. Got 12-13v

  4. Batteries are just new.. Shut the 1270 off after 10 min of running while its cooling down. Shut it off and turned it back on. Fires up like a charm. What I did was if the 1270 is going nowhere. I turn off the whole lights. If I'm plowing. I'll turn on the front and rear lights. Are you sure it's not the front and rear fog lights that I'm using that's causing the alternator to not charge the battery?? 

  5. 14 hours ago, stronger800 said:

    One wire alternator might be the way to go for you, if we ever can determine your issue/issues

    Did a voltmeter test before and after chisel plowing on both the batteries and the alternator 

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    • Confused 1
  6. 4 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

    Yes.  New battery’s coming again soon.  
    12 years, few months, same idea. 01495F2A-C97D-470B-9344-3349192817B9.thumb.jpeg.4f90e165062c41b4e783dc9671ef82a5.jpeg
    parts guy recommended that he sell you new batteries…surprise

    When I chatted with the parts store guy. On his 4020 The alternator is good on the tractor. But it's not charging the batteries. It's one of the wires etc. 

  7. 21 minutes ago, jass1660 said:

    Good lord a $10 multimeter will tell you if the alternator is charging. I guess $400 a year for batteries is easier…

    Not saying I won't test it.. but with new batteries. I can always recharge the other 2 batteries and replace it.

  8. On 9/19/2022 at 5:57 AM, stronger800 said:

    It is possible that your alternator has never worked, and that your new batteries didn’t have enough power in them to start your tractor all Summer as many times as you used it. I remember you had key switch problems, a wiring issue there could/will cause the alternator not to charge. Be best to buy the battery and alternator tester like I said, and check for power coming directly out of the alternator. That would also eliminate a wiring problem

    From spring to summer. Every week. I start it. It fires up instantly. After using the fog lights for 2 whole nights recently. I noticed that the battery is out of juice. Replaced the batteries and it's back running.  Talked with one of the parts store guys. He's owned a 4020 and From him. he just recommended replacing the batteries and charging it.

  9. 20 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

    Three questions. Is the alternator belt tight? Are you running full throttle? How many watts total are the lights you're running?

    Belts are tight by play and I'm running at 2000rpms pulling my 22ft disc at 3rd gear 1st range. As for the lights. Two front fog lights and 2 rear fog lights. One on each side. Had those lights fixed to work when it was at the shop after the Powershift rebuilt..

  10. 34 minutes ago, wendyoakscubs said:

    They're not going to last much longer if you keep jumping them to start it. Ideally you need to put the batteries on a charger till they are back up to voltage. All youre doing with the jump pack is starting it with the jump pack, not the batteries. Do some tests. Your alternator is either shot or the wiring to it is bad. Ideally, you should actually take the time to track it down and fix the issues unless you love spending money on batteries and wasting time. 

    Do you think it's because I'm using the front and rear fog lights for too long?? Before I was doing night tillage. Every week. It starts like a charm.

  11. Used the jumpack to jump the 1270. It ran like normal. Took it for a bit discing. Still pulling. Gave it 10 minutes to cool down. Shut it off, then tried starting it. Not enough juice to crank.. I'm assuming the alternator is good... how long do you guys think those 2 12v batteries will last??

  12. 1 hour ago, iowaboy1965 said:

    Once a 1970s diesel is running it doesn't take any juice to stay running.

    Charge your batteries and fire it up, turn all the lights on. If it holds at least 13.5 volts  then alternator is probably ok. If volts slowly drop off then you probably have a charging problem. 

    Just brought new batteries in the spring.. My gauges aren't working. So I'm clueless from this point.. I'll jump it. If the tractor goes out while discing. I'll assume it's the alternator...

  13. I was discing 10 acres fields for the last 2 nights. I have all the lights on when discing. Next day the 1270 is out of juice. I figured it's from using the lights.. Is that normal for the 1970s case tractors?? Or do you guys think the alternate is out?? It ran normal like always..

  14. On 9/13/2022 at 9:58 PM, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

    So what is wrong that makes it scrap?

    It's the whole 140. The guy told me that the rear bearings are out and there's no gas tank and no hydraulic box by the battery. My 100 has everything. But water is inside the engine. Called a shop. They wanted 4000$ for a overhaul 

  15. 12 hours ago, bitty said:

    Did you look under the seat on the left seat support? Engine if it has C123 on it indicates that it's more likely a super A 

    It's a super A. It's our very first owned tractor since we started farming 32 years ago. The 100s and 140s have a lifted fuel tank, hood and grill.

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