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Solocam8925

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Posts posted by Solocam8925

  1. I finally brought my cyclo 400 planter to my farm. Got the 1066 to hook up the hitch, but one problem. I hooked up the single line hydraulic coupler on the 1066. Both on top and bottom of the hydraulic coupler Not lifting or dropping. Couldn't get to where I can remove the locking pin.. any suggestions.

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  2. 11 hours ago, HydroTek said:

    Seals on the boost piston , in the brake valve are the usual problem

    Do you know what was "fixed' ?

    Not sure. All I know was the 1270 came from Prescott WI for the right brakes fixed... Did some field work with the 24ft field cultivator. Turn right using the right brake to turn sharp and it works. Tried using the right brakes and it works. Maybe I wasn't pushing the right brake pedal all the way..

  3. 9 hours ago, Wi Ih said:

    I planted Fleet Farm seed a couple years ago. It yielded good, but it started to go down on me. The other corn, I planted, went down a little bit too, but not as bad. 

    How much bushels of corn were you able to harvest per acre?? The bag says not to spray herbicides. There a brand you recommend?? I'm very new with getting into corn and soybean farming..

  4. 9 hours ago, TN Hillbilly said:

    Give it a try and see. But remember this, they are selling somebody else's leftover or extra seed, not something they bred and developed. So if it does great this year (and I hope it does) if you buy Fleet Farm seed next year it will almost certainly be totally different seed than what you got this year.

    If you paid $170/bag, and we assume a "name brand" seed is $300/bag, and we assume a bag plants roughly 3 acres, then the increased cost of "name brand" is $130/bag or $43.33/acre. At current prices, the "name brand" seed will need to outyield the Fleet Farm by more than 11 bu/ac to be worth the cost. Usually, well selected name brand seed with up to date genetics will easily outyield "mystery seed" by much more than 11 bushels. So, buying the more expensive name brand seed would actually make you more money. And buying the cheap seed will cost you money in lost yield potential. 

    There are "premium" branded seeds with good traits and yield potential. I would use these.

    There are lesser known, smaller seed companies who still have good genetics and adapted varieties. I would use these (and have seen some yield really well). These are a little cheaper than the "premium brands" but are a good option.

    Then there's pig-in-a-poke seed where you don't have any idea what you are getting. I'd probably avoid these in the future. (Fleet Farm seed corn probably falls in this category.)

    What brand seed you guys recommend for the ih 400 planter??

  5. 1 hour ago, Cdfarabaugh said:

    I have wondered this myself about planting some off brand seed.  The "big boys" seed is getting unreasonable in price, and personally I'm not keen on paying $300+ a bag to cover these sales people's and managers wages and having a brand new truck to drive around and bullshit in.  

    Genetics are important but for double the price are you getting your full money's worth? 

    Corn in MN is now 4.11$ per buschel at the elevator.

  6. 1 hour ago, Ihfan4life said:

    Are you going to feed it, or sell it?

    Planted cheap corn for a couple years after planting a known brand. Cows didn’t milk on it, noticeably less energy and more problems than with a known brand/variety. If you do, I wouldn’t plant more than 10-15% of your total acreage and see for yourself how it yields and grows for you…

    buyer beware 

    I was hoping of selling it to the elevator in Nov after harvest. I just brought 2 38lbs of that fleet farm brand corn to try it out. Its 170$ a bag. Was hoping its worth the price. I did look a little on ag talk. It seems to me like it's a up and down. Some say they got 100-120 buschels of corn from fleet farm brand corn.. I did planted a push by seed planter with biologic sweet corn for deer on making front single cultivator rows from my farmall super a. 1/2 acre. Fertilized 9-23-30 and sprayed fungicide with Endigo and calvary mix on my sprayer on my super a. It turned out tall and nice with good yield.. Deer ate it all. With upgrading with the cyclo 400 on the 1066 pulling it. Was hoping that corn would turn out nice with some good yield. This week was hoping of broadcasting some lime on my 1 acre field for it before turning the dirt with the fieldcultivator..

  7. 13 hours ago, Jacka said:

    Solocam,I am confused don't you farm now like vegetables or something?You posted on here for several years I believe.I know you posted about buying your combine and planter.But more power to you and just do it.

    Will do some corn this spring thanks..

  8. I know this discussion is kind of old. I'd like to do some agriculture practices since I brought a 1460 combine and a 4 row 400 cyclo planter.. might start 5-10 acres, and mabe later I'll look and go for 40 acres later on. Still thinking about buying another 130+hp tractor to haul grain to the elevator.. I like to keep the 1270 as the main tillage tractor..

  9. On 3/14/2024 at 12:42 PM, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

    We experimented with ripping quite a bit 10-15 years ago. We figured it cost of nearly $20/acre at the time. We saw some benefit, but never enough to justify the cost. It does not take very long to burn 1,000 gallons of diesel. The wear parts on the ripper don’t last very long either. Iowa state has custom subsoiling at an average of $25/ac, I’m not sure I would do it for that. There is very little of it done here anymore. 

    If I just chisel plow 6-8 inches into the ground every year. Will it do on those dark soils??

  10. I've seen a 1370 pulling a ecolo tiger 5 shank ripper. Heard it goes 7 inches into the ground... I have a krause 11 shank chisel plow that i can get it down to 6-8 inches in. But was told over time you need a ripper 1 ft in to unpack the ground because of how the soil is.... on my other farm I've been doing my method of discing down the trash with my 21ft krause disc in the fall, spring ill turn the dirt with the 24ft wilrich digger... the soil there is sandy, parts of it is moist... was hoping this method will work on black dirt in se mn for a couple years before plowing or ripping..

  11. What pull behind ripper I can use for the 1270 how many shanks recommended?? Pending on a lease in SE MN. Soils black and good. Was told by the owner he suggested over time to use a ripper to loosen the dirt.. 

  12. I've been planning on doing grain farming in mn. Just brought a ih 1460 combine, 400 cyclo 4 row planter back in the summer. Has anyone profit anything from corn and soybeans or is it mostly breaking even?? Very curious if its worth my time doing it. Last year I had 7 acres left over from vegetable and flower farming. Like to make something extra.

  13. 42 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

    One of the problems with the brakes is that they used Dot 3 fluid , and Farmers are not known for maintaining the brake system

    Ya know , like flushing and changing brake fluid every few years
    that stuff will draw moisture , and rust the system

    When the brakes were new , they worked fine
    lack of use and lack of maintenance has taken the toll

    Even with working brakes , if the axle couplers are not maintained -- you gonna free wheel sometimes

    Problem was that the previous owner never used the brakes since his grampa brought it. Can't even stomp on it. I'm assuming its real bad. I brought it because it was a good deal to buy and it's my first combine. It's been maintained.

  14. 8 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

    I am shocked at the NO Brakes- No Sweat-No Need comments from everyone I use brakes on them combines alot to aid in shifting the transmission to setting the parking brake Its a safety issue to boot 

    I don't farm in hill country that's a releif. I got 2 leases that I plan on planting corn next year. There's some hills going down on the main roads. I suppose taking my time going in slow gear would be my option.

  15. Questions on the 400 planter. It uses 1 hydraulic line to lift and drop. My 1066 doesn't have the original couplers where you can shut off the top and lower valve. Was told that it'll take 30 seconds to drop. My concern is I'm hoping I won't blow the hydraulics out. Any suggestions??

  16. On 7/27/2023 at 1:00 PM, Absent Minded Farmer said:

    You could get two or three of those 400's around here for $600 in that condition. Looks like wires on the hitch. Does it come with a monitor? That's going to be more parts & money if something isn't working. The 1460 might be a good package if it was maintained decent & is in fairly good shape. Same with the heads.

    Mike

    Just brought that combine today. Everything works except the brakes. 

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