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About V8deuce

  • Birthday 05/01/1956

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Stoney plain alberta
  • Interests
    Anything with wheels or maybe tracks

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  1. Now that I have a service manual I can understand a lot more of the workings. My tracks are adjusted by, i'm assuming a bottle jack, then a piece of 2 1/2 inch angle iron welded in to keep them tight. one of the things on the list to repair then some other "field repairs". All in all a few things here and there need attention my main focus now is to get everything in top shape under that huge steel plate so I hope not to have to remove it again. Randy
  2. I also am stuck in the 80's or even 70's! I took my sweetheart to the drive in theatre in '74, put gas in my 65 chevy convertible, and bought a 6 pack of beer all for $20 bucks! Of course I was an apprentice mechanic for about 3 bucks an hour and a new chevy was less than 3 grand. No blower on the Ford it was a 1997 cobra 4.6 32 valve, I think that was the first year for the module motors. Ya every time I need to spend money on the old td15 I say to myself well you just machined the flywheel and new disc, pressure plate so might as well spend a few more bucks on bearings! I can't remember the fellas name at browns but I dont think it was Rocko. Randy
  3. Just got a call from Browns international this afternoon and he found both bearings BUT $500 plus shipping I guess if I found some that needed machine to fit I'd be in the same boat. Randy
  4. We moved here from southern bc last fall where i had a general repair shop that did a lot of modifications to old cars lots of fuel injected motors installed in the thirty cars everything except paint and bodywork. We are now a stones through west of stoney plain just south of hwy 16 in Carvel. I haven't met any hotrodders in the area yet but really look forward to it! I recently aquirered a 1940 Ford 1/2 ton and I have a 2013 mustang for a donor car.300 hp v6 with a 6 speed manuel. looking at your diagram i think number 29 ( 1010) rides on 28 right where 28 arrow is pointing and (1011) is either 12 or 13. I agree that a slight change in bearing size can be installed with a little modification , Bob over at Grove machine can do it for sure. I am hoping I could give the dementions and someone could give me a part number. When I had my shop I did a lot of manuel and diff repairs for a local transmission shop and setting a crown and pinion I would hone out the pinion bearing so it slid on the inner side of the pinion that way I could slide it off and on to get the right gear pattern once I had a good pattern I would press on a new bearing. This is why i'm hoping someone can find a part number or something close that I can modify. I'll see if I can find a pic of my "32 were I started my handle from. Randy
  5. Good to know! You are a fountain of info! Randy
  6. My apologies guys I have not been on here for awhile! I had both my steering clutch out and both were in decent shape except for the right one that had a big mice nest in it resulting in the the steels rusting and not releasing. cleaning and replacing them with new ones from our friends at general gear and machine in boise, a couple new seals I got locally and they are ready to install. A closer look at the forward reverse gear had me concerned so I took it over to spruce machine for a touch up, of course I had to strip the trans down to nothing but a big hole. Which brings me to my problem I have now. All the bearing are in really good shape except two and it seams bower either went out of business or was sold to another company anyway the bearing numbers are mr-1011-ea and m-1010-ea. After exhausting my options by phone I took them to motion equipment here in Edmonton, they found the numbers to be still good but could not find any anywhere all across canada. I also tried a bigger skf supplier in Seattle again no luck. I think it is the 1011, that don't have a inner race because it runs on the cluster shaft itself. I talked to General gear they need a IH part number, the service manual I bought shows a good exploded view but no part numbers. I'm hoping someone might be able to help me or all this work will be for nothing. I don't see why I couldn't use a ball bearing rather than a roller bearing, I know rollers are better at side pressure but it's not like I going to hire it out. I used a ball joint remover c clamp type to remove my pins in the brake shoes, they were really seized and I was thinking of doing something like just dave did! there is three on each side on mine. Randy
  7. That makes sense but on mine both bottom plugs were in but the two that sort of angle to the front were missing allowing sticks and stuff shoved into the holes who knows the history. I have the left clutch assembly ready to remove will work on the right one this weekend. Some of the grease tubes were not hooked up to the right release bearing fork and throwout bearing and the left was over greased. So far nothing to make me abandon this project yet. Randy
  8. Well boys, girls and sports fans the weather has begun to warm up so i took the opportunity to start disassembly on my dozer. A lot of learning and some help from my new manual I was able to get down to the bitter gritty. Those damn mice was the main cause of seized up right clutch and I am having a tough time loosing the pins that hold the brake sections in place. Obviously very poor maintenance as the plugs were missing on the bottom clutch covers that allow access to adjust brake band were missing and lots of brush and branches were cramed in there. There is a large plate maybe 1/4 inch thick covering the main cast frame that once removed exposed the trans, diff and clutches of course i had to look inside at the gears of the trans and found the reverse- forward gear in tuff shape. I sent an email to John in Idaho he said that's the first thing that sells he has another td 15 that they dont have apart yet but told me not to hold my breath because he has yet to find a good one. I searched around and found a fellow in the city that will make one for me albeit a little pricey at least I have an option unless someone has one in their back pocket their not using! Still haven't found a carb yet but hopefully soon. Oh and the hydraulics for the steering would probably work better if there was oil in it! Duuu. Ill post some pics asap. Randy
  9. Thanks hardtail I’ll check them out, I ordered the manual last night and I’ll wait until it arrives then pull the old girl apart. I was quoted $25k to do the work I need done on my acerage so with new clutches costing $1000 I’m looking forward to starting at the bottom and working my way up. With the undercarriage not as bad as I was thinking I’m sure she will out last me will only a little snow plowing to do in the winters. Randy
  10. Awesome thanks that’s what I’m looking for I’ll order the manual also asap btw how do you know it’s 151? Randy
  11. This is why I said poor maintenance the left track was tightened by some means ( hydrolic Jack?) then a piece of 2in angle iron was welded in place to keep it tight. The large coil springs push against a bracket that is broke, job number 425 on the old girl ha ha. Randy
  12. Great! like I say I’m dumb as a sack of hammers and not scared to take anything on after all it’s just nuts and bolts so if I had to machine some part that is non existent anymore that’s still not the end of the world. Maybe it has just sat so long it has caused these problems🤷 Randy
  13. Thanks for the info hardtail good info, what I really could use is some diagrams, service specs, adjustment directions you know a manual of some kind, I done the regular goggle search but to no avail only some guys putting around or showing how good they work. When spring rolls around I think I’ll start ripping and tearing then ask question😇 Randy
  14. I understand what your saying what your saying Matt but I think she looks good in my yard, I may even build a resting place for her next to the end of the driveway lol. Randy
  15. Only number I can find. Randy
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