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Everything posted by LipRipper3006

  1. Not sure but I know he said the two he measured were. As for the book I don't have one yet. I bought one for the H but find it vague compared to the factory JD manuals I use. The h book gives two clearances under crankshaft 1 being Running Clearance: .002-.003, the other End Clearance: .004-.008. I&T Rod Bearing clearance is given at .023-.033 for the MD, which measured at the longest setting would be around a .005 clearance on my crank but I'm looking to see what others have to say.
  2. I am getting ready to start rebuilding the D264 in my MTA. I have bought a 450D engine for parts. The crankshaft that was for the D281 was previously machined and was just sitting around. The mains are .020 under and the rods are still standard. The rod journals have been polished but have light rust in spots from sitting. The machine shop I took it to says the rods are .002 out of round. I have a set of case Std bearings. The machinist said he wouldn't really worry about the out of round being its a show tractor but id like to also use it for tractor rides, plow days, garden use etc. He said we can go .010 under but the bearings for those are $320 plus the mains at $250ish and labor for grinding. Plus I need new oversized sleeves, rings, but reusing the 450 pistons, etc. I was wanting a second opinion on what would be best for the rod journal situation, thanks.
  3. If the TA is bad and not out of adjustment look to shell out some cash. Looks like the same pto on both MTA-D's I have. I got both of these shipped for what they're asking for this tractor. If it needs any internal work done really get your pockets ready. Bearings are about $600 for rods and mains. Sleeves and Pistons are about $2400 a set. The MD type engines are notorious for cracking heads between coolant passages and starting valves. Injection pumps are also bad for having primary seals go out and flood the pump with diesel, thinning the oil and causing excessive wear; their oil is separate from the engine oil. (Correct Pump Should be an "A" pump) If you are looking to see if its an original MTA Diesel then the serial should be stamped D then the serial #. MTA was inked on so it will not appear if the tag has been blasted. Also the MTA's have a casting number set aside on the block (264347R3. R-3 was used in SMTAD and early 400D tractors. Cast number found just below top of frame rail and just above oil pan on left side.) All casting should be "Z" indicating its 54. Odds are the head has been replaced because of said issues. I would say closer to $5,500 would be fair for it if all checks out
  4. Wrapping up the H I'm restoring and have hit a bit of a bump in the road. In the originality guide it shows that the O D B decal goes above the 3 position switch 15/16" while most h's & m's I've seen had them at 9. Which would be the correct orientation for this decal? Thanks
  5. I am putting the H back together back together after paint and cant find much info on this spacer. It is not in the parts book but what I can find says it's for making steering with cultivators easier or to reduce front end shake. The tractor at one point had cultivators from the left over parts but they're long gone. The tractor is now only a show tractor with maybe a parade or tractor ride every so often. Should I re install the spacer? 4th 5th will be the only gears it will probably be using so low speed steering isn't as big of an issue as high speed shake. If its better to re install then which way should it go? Thanks
  6. Thanks for the help, spring was there but stretched. Ended up cutting and re bending the spring and it seems to be holding until I can get one ordered.
  7. Just picked up another M-TA Diesel and ran across the issue of the gas to diesel lever not locking into the gas position. The tractor will start on gas by holding the lever forward but will go straight to diesel when you let off. You can hear the over center snap but it doesn't set. Any info on where to start would be appreciated.
  8. 4in bore but the pistons are long and the liners are thick.
  9. Here are the numbers that I can find off these sleeve piston kits. Supposedly they are for a SuperMD/MTA. He only has 3 so I would need a 4th but have only seen diesel pistons that are flat top with a bowl near the center. Does anyone know what they fit or if I can even find a 4th to have a matching set?
  10. My SMD has been hard to start since I bought it. Rebuilt the carb and changed plugs, helped quite a bit. Re-timed the distributor and changed points and condenser, helped quite a bit. But it still cranks for quite a bit until it hits enough to stay running. It smokes quite a bit until it runs for a few seconds. I thought it was flooding the engine with gas but I think it's pumping diesel. With the lever in the off position and the main tank off the water trap will start to empty while running on gas. The throttle in the off position pushes on the pump arm so I don't know if something is out of adjustment internally or what.
  11. Finally solved the problem, ended up taking the distributor off of my H, no change. I though it may have been a loose weight in the distributor. Still had an intermediate miss. Stated pulling plug wires and all of them jumped spark. Noticed there wasn't much of a change in performance on wire 4. Put the timing light on the wire and found the plug not to be firing at all times, maybe every 3 to 4 revolutions. Pulled the plug and noticed it wasn't a 3116, it was a 386. All plugs were the same 386, I told the guy at Oreillys 3116 because that what I run in everything so I'm not sure if they were in the wrong box or if he just handed me the wrong ones; didn't happen to catch the wrong numbers when I installed them. I believe the ones that came out of it were D21's. Changed them to 3116's and runs fine. I'm guessing the plug went bad after installing the rebuilt carb and that's why it ran good with my carb and then again for a while after I rebuilt it. I started noticing the miss after going in road gear setting the carb adjustments and noticed it first staring to run funny at constant rpm but went away after throttling up. That's why I moved the timing back because it sounded too advanced. After moving the distributor is when it started to stumble under load again. I know that either right before or right after I put my carb on it is when I changed the plugs. I also found it funny that the carb seemed to be lean since it backfired through the carb but each time I pulled the plugs they were black. Seems like alot of effort to go through just for it to be a faulty new plug.
  12. New intake manifold gasket installed and torqued. No visible cracks on the manifold. Doesn't run any different. Checked the points gaps, they're fine. Checked the valve clearance again, its fine. Seems to blow back through the carb sometimes when you try to rev it up. Sounds kind of like a John Deere. Went to put my magneto on and I cant get it to time up with this tractor, it trips about 5 or 10 degrees btc before the notch on the pulley at max adjustment.
  13. Took the carb back off and stuck it on my M. Air screw 1 turn fuel screw 3 turns and the tractor runs great, idles at 420-430 and revs right up to wot no pops. stumbles or smoke. I guess when I put my M's carb on it, it may have been a fluke, it also ran fine with this carb until I adjusted the timing Saturday. I put the timing exactly back where it was and it still ran poorly. I haven't put the carb back on the tractor in question yet. If it still runs the same than I may take the Mag off of my M and see if the problem lies somewhere in the ignition system. Forgot to mention I adjusted the valves prior to going through the carb. They were a tad tight so I ran the tractor for about 5-10mins and put them all at .018.
  14. Put a new kit in it and it ran fine for a while. Ran it up and down the road. It accelerated fine but once it got at a steady rpm it seemed to have a miss. Thought it may be timing so I tried adjusting that. Now it's back to running about the same minus the black smoke at idle. Once you pull the throttle back it's like you hit the kill switch. I can turn the air screw all the way in and the tractor is still running. I can run the fuel screw out until it is blowing black smoke rings, it still wont take throttle. I am thinking it may be a vacuum leak from the intake manifold. Either that or something is fishy with the ignition system, maybe a bad condenser or coil. It is still a 6v system.
  15. I convinced the guy to buy a quality kit, I usually use Marks carb. Will report back if that makes a difference.
  16. Soaked two nights in Chem dip and reassembled, no change in performance.
  17. I have narrowed down the problem of this tractor I'm working on to its carburetor. It runs/idles rough and runs very rich. If you turn the fuel screw in anymore than 3 turns, when you throttle it up its just like either turning the switch off or it revs up on 2 cylinders. If you take the air screw out at running speed and cause a vacuum leak it will smooth out and run good. Owner put a tractor supply carb kit in it and I have gone through and sprayed out all passages with brake cleaner and compressed air but it doesn't make a difference. I have a super H carb that I put on it and it runs fine. I have tested the float and it works fine. I think the problem lies somewhere in the top half of the carb, more particularly maybe a stopped air passage or fuel getting into the air passages from somewhere
  18. I had all but the axle housings & moving parts blasted inside and out after cleaning to remove all oil residue, the used Glyptal Enamel to coat most surfaces to help keep it from sweating and collecting moisture as well as making it easier to drain the old oil out if it was to get milky. The original was removed when I cleaned out the thick grease/oil from the housing with diesel and brake cleaner. It seemed to be more of a red oxide primer that was on it originally.
  19. When taking apart this Farmall H there were two shims behind the pto but I don't remember if it had a paper gasket. I looked at the parts book and don't see a shim as part of the diagram. My Case dealer sold me a paper gasket when I bought all the seals and gaskets. Should I re-install the two shims or just the paper gasket? Is there a measurement that needs to be taken to adjust the shim pack? Thanks
  20. I had to get a new used set of gears for the rear end, the bolt that holds the pilot bearing backed out and caused the gear to run on a angle which ground the teeth pretty good. I bought a complete matched set with bull gears, bull pinions, differential, driving & countershaft with all the gears. As for the Pinion carriers, there was a casting flaw or crack that ran most of the way around. When I used the bolts to push the carrier out it broke almost all the way around. I have my backlash at .011 and side play to .010 with the differential pushed to the right of the tractor and closer to .005 backlash when pushed all the way to the left.
  21. Thanks, hopefully the rear half will be sealed up by the end of the week.
  22. Update: My endplay is now .012-.013 with a prybar and my backlash is .008. I'm waiting on prussian blue to come in before I check the contact patch and install the seals.
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