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Everything posted by LipRipper3006

  1. The ground froze up a bit so I got to drive on some move level ground. Now I believe its coming from the front top shaft bearing. It seems to be constant under load in any gear. It does seem to go quiet down when it on flat ground a bit. Is a little quieter in first but the others it seems constant with engine speed. I guess I will be tearing into it and seeing what all needs replaced if the owner decides. He said the left final drive was empty when he got inherited it. Is there anything else I should be mindful of while I'm in there?
  2. I believe it changes speed with the tractor but doesn't get higher or lower pitched. Seems its worse under load. Best that I can deduce is maybe ring and pinion but I think changing clearances may make it worse.
  3. Yes the oiler is there and looks to be in good condition. From what i understood this was a cultivating tractor so while it was running it was in motion. As far as the bearings go if they were noisy wouldn't it make noise in neutral? I seem to only have the noise when the top shaft and bottom shaft are meshed.
  4. Yes. Took the top cover off, nothing looks to be out of the ordinary.
  5. Had a 140 brought to me with noise from the rear end. He suspected a bad bearing in the left final drive but I believe it something to do with the transmission. It makes noise in every gear with or without the clutch pressed but does not when in neutral rolling or still. I would say it sounds similar to normal whine but this is quite loud in person. He said he had gone through and changed all the fluids. I looked in through the fill plug and it looks clean in the case Would this be from excessive wear on the gears or is this normal? .
  6. I have seen people do that however it is ugly and it's a little too narrow to run around where I live. There are hills and holes all around that I feel uncomfortable on with the wheels out let alone narrowed all the way in. I usually set my tractor around 80" where I have a little wiggle room on the trailer but also having enough width for stability.
  7. I actually have as many JDs as I do IH's. This may make some eyes burn but I just finished this one last month. Busy in the shop now cleaning up M-TA parts and getting ready to paint a 8N. Road gear on the late B's are 10mph wide open so It's definitely a few steps below a Super series M. Just about any letter series John Deere will fit on my trailer at 82" but a M Farmall is just too wide.
  8. The goal wasn't to go that much faster, just to see if there was a way to up the ratio in order to bring the revs down. I'm not particularly trying to decrease the travel time, it would only be an added benefit. I'm going through the tractor either way so its not a huge issue to swap parts, just needed to have the parts ready before I start if there were any that would make a difference. I enjoy driving them vs hauling because the vehicle & trailer maintenance factor is removed and by the time it takes to drag out and chain down everything I could be about half way there. Last time I made the drive it took around 45mins. Its exactly 9.5 miles by car and 11.0 by tractor because most of the route is a highway so I go down backroads to avoid the main road.
  9. I'm getting ready to start a parts list to restore this tractor. I currently don't have an over axle trailer or a heavy duty truck to pull one so I ride about 10 miles one way a few times a year to attend local shows and parades. I have a Super MD that has stock gearing on 13.6 tires and will do at least 20 wide open. Its a narrow front and pulls hills well even with about 1 ton load behind it. Since this M-TA I'm going to build will be mostly a show & parade tractor, it will spend most of its life on asphalt. Its a D264 that will sleeved to a 281. Not set on a tire size yet but a 13.6/14.9/15.5. I know 14.9 will give a slightly higher speed but its an odd size, hard to find, and expensive when you do (I'd like Firestone Field & Roads). Has an IH Wide Front that I plan on plumbing in a char lynn PS system. I am mainly asking to see if there's a particular ring & pinion that can be swapped in from a different application. I'm looking for a ratio that wont be super tall where its constantly bogged down but id like to cruise at least 25mph at around 1/2-3/4 throttle. For hills and taking off I will have the TA. I just don't want to ride the whole way with the engine at the top of the rev range. Not sure if this is feasible but I didn't think it would hurt to ask to see what others have done.
  10. Any type of automotive paint is going to be superior to ag paint. The holdout and shine will be better on the urethane vs the enamel. The urethane I used was about $600 per gallon with activator vs about $80 for the iron guard but I used a hardener with it as well. As long as the factory paint is stored inside it will make a nice job but I like the automotive paint because the shine is that much better. I have sprayed both IH paint and JD paint, both seem to spay good, have only buffed the JD not sure how the IH buffs. Both factory paints have a fair bit of die-back after spraying where as the urethanes don't have hardly any. If you buffed the 2150 it would probably make a similar job but ag paint has a tendency to fade over the years.
  11. Here are the slideshows for a pair of Farmall H's I have been working on over the last year. I have a JD B I am working on now and then I have an MTA-D that I would like to do a YouTube series on potentially. We'll see how that goes since there's not a lot of money to be made by small channels anymore and it takes a ton of extra time and work to produce quality content and get good shot of everything. Nothing worse than trying to watch an informational video and you cant see or hear what someone is trying to explain. The 51 was the first Farmall I have painted. It ran great after we pulled it off of a tobacco farm and did a little work to get it going. I took about 11 days to tear apart, blast, repair, and then paint everything. The rush was to get it done so it could ride in our small town Christmas parade. Painted with IronGuard IH 2150. The 46 was a complete restoration. The transmission has either every gear new or replaced with a good used one. All seals and gaskets were replaced along with every bolt turned on the tractor. Engine was completely gone through with all wear items replaced. Rims were powder coated by a local business but everything else was painted by myself. Some of the cast pieces I took and slicked up to help the tractor pop. Was painted with the PPG IH 50 color code.
  12. Not sure but I know he said the two he measured were. As for the book I don't have one yet. I bought one for the H but find it vague compared to the factory JD manuals I use. The h book gives two clearances under crankshaft 1 being Running Clearance: .002-.003, the other End Clearance: .004-.008. I&T Rod Bearing clearance is given at .023-.033 for the MD, which measured at the longest setting would be around a .005 clearance on my crank but I'm looking to see what others have to say.
  13. I am getting ready to start rebuilding the D264 in my MTA. I have bought a 450D engine for parts. The crankshaft that was for the D281 was previously machined and was just sitting around. The mains are .020 under and the rods are still standard. The rod journals have been polished but have light rust in spots from sitting. The machine shop I took it to says the rods are .002 out of round. I have a set of case Std bearings. The machinist said he wouldn't really worry about the out of round being its a show tractor but id like to also use it for tractor rides, plow days, garden use etc. He said we can go .010 under but the bearings for those are $320 plus the mains at $250ish and labor for grinding. Plus I need new oversized sleeves, rings, but reusing the 450 pistons, etc. I was wanting a second opinion on what would be best for the rod journal situation, thanks.
  14. If the TA is bad and not out of adjustment look to shell out some cash. Looks like the same pto on both MTA-D's I have. I got both of these shipped for what they're asking for this tractor. If it needs any internal work done really get your pockets ready. Bearings are about $600 for rods and mains. Sleeves and Pistons are about $2400 a set. The MD type engines are notorious for cracking heads between coolant passages and starting valves. Injection pumps are also bad for having primary seals go out and flood the pump with diesel, thinning the oil and causing excessive wear; their oil is separate from the engine oil. (Correct Pump Should be an "A" pump) If you are looking to see if its an original MTA Diesel then the serial should be stamped D then the serial #. MTA was inked on so it will not appear if the tag has been blasted. Also the MTA's have a casting number set aside on the block (264347R3. R-3 was used in SMTAD and early 400D tractors. Cast number found just below top of frame rail and just above oil pan on left side.) All casting should be "Z" indicating its 54. Odds are the head has been replaced because of said issues. I would say closer to $5,500 would be fair for it if all checks out
  15. Wrapping up the H I'm restoring and have hit a bit of a bump in the road. In the originality guide it shows that the O D B decal goes above the 3 position switch 15/16" while most h's & m's I've seen had them at 9. Which would be the correct orientation for this decal? Thanks
  16. I am putting the H back together back together after paint and cant find much info on this spacer. It is not in the parts book but what I can find says it's for making steering with cultivators easier or to reduce front end shake. The tractor at one point had cultivators from the left over parts but they're long gone. The tractor is now only a show tractor with maybe a parade or tractor ride every so often. Should I re install the spacer? 4th 5th will be the only gears it will probably be using so low speed steering isn't as big of an issue as high speed shake. If its better to re install then which way should it go? Thanks
  17. Thanks for the help, spring was there but stretched. Ended up cutting and re bending the spring and it seems to be holding until I can get one ordered.
  18. Just picked up another M-TA Diesel and ran across the issue of the gas to diesel lever not locking into the gas position. The tractor will start on gas by holding the lever forward but will go straight to diesel when you let off. You can hear the over center snap but it doesn't set. Any info on where to start would be appreciated.
  19. 4in bore but the pistons are long and the liners are thick.
  20. Here are the numbers that I can find off these sleeve piston kits. Supposedly they are for a SuperMD/MTA. He only has 3 so I would need a 4th but have only seen diesel pistons that are flat top with a bowl near the center. Does anyone know what they fit or if I can even find a 4th to have a matching set?
  21. My SMD has been hard to start since I bought it. Rebuilt the carb and changed plugs, helped quite a bit. Re-timed the distributor and changed points and condenser, helped quite a bit. But it still cranks for quite a bit until it hits enough to stay running. It smokes quite a bit until it runs for a few seconds. I thought it was flooding the engine with gas but I think it's pumping diesel. With the lever in the off position and the main tank off the water trap will start to empty while running on gas. The throttle in the off position pushes on the pump arm so I don't know if something is out of adjustment internally or what.
  22. Finally solved the problem, ended up taking the distributor off of my H, no change. I though it may have been a loose weight in the distributor. Still had an intermediate miss. Stated pulling plug wires and all of them jumped spark. Noticed there wasn't much of a change in performance on wire 4. Put the timing light on the wire and found the plug not to be firing at all times, maybe every 3 to 4 revolutions. Pulled the plug and noticed it wasn't a 3116, it was a 386. All plugs were the same 386, I told the guy at Oreillys 3116 because that what I run in everything so I'm not sure if they were in the wrong box or if he just handed me the wrong ones; didn't happen to catch the wrong numbers when I installed them. I believe the ones that came out of it were D21's. Changed them to 3116's and runs fine. I'm guessing the plug went bad after installing the rebuilt carb and that's why it ran good with my carb and then again for a while after I rebuilt it. I started noticing the miss after going in road gear setting the carb adjustments and noticed it first staring to run funny at constant rpm but went away after throttling up. That's why I moved the timing back because it sounded too advanced. After moving the distributor is when it started to stumble under load again. I know that either right before or right after I put my carb on it is when I changed the plugs. I also found it funny that the carb seemed to be lean since it backfired through the carb but each time I pulled the plugs they were black. Seems like alot of effort to go through just for it to be a faulty new plug.
  23. New intake manifold gasket installed and torqued. No visible cracks on the manifold. Doesn't run any different. Checked the points gaps, they're fine. Checked the valve clearance again, its fine. Seems to blow back through the carb sometimes when you try to rev it up. Sounds kind of like a John Deere. Went to put my magneto on and I cant get it to time up with this tractor, it trips about 5 or 10 degrees btc before the notch on the pulley at max adjustment.
  24. Took the carb back off and stuck it on my M. Air screw 1 turn fuel screw 3 turns and the tractor runs great, idles at 420-430 and revs right up to wot no pops. stumbles or smoke. I guess when I put my M's carb on it, it may have been a fluke, it also ran fine with this carb until I adjusted the timing Saturday. I put the timing exactly back where it was and it still ran poorly. I haven't put the carb back on the tractor in question yet. If it still runs the same than I may take the Mag off of my M and see if the problem lies somewhere in the ignition system. Forgot to mention I adjusted the valves prior to going through the carb. They were a tad tight so I ran the tractor for about 5-10mins and put them all at .018.
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