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1566Hog

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About 1566Hog

  • Birthday 05/13/1979

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    Hitchcock, South Dee

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  1. Ok. I was wondering if I could just jump that sensing wire over to the big stud on the alternator. I figured as long as it has power all the time, it should work. The aftermarket key switch does have lots of extra terminals, and that definitely complicated things for the time being. So, I ordered the OEM switch with just 2 terminals. Yes, as of now, the key switch is getting its power from one side of the amp gauge. The clutch safety switch seems to be working correctly when checked with an ohm meter, and a test light when I jumped power down to it. Should be good to go after I get the right key switch. Man, that was a mess of frayed wires under the steering wheel. Every time you touch a wire, the insulation disintegrates and falls off, exposing more frayed wires! Thanks for the tip of jumping that small wire over to the big positive post of the alternator!
  2. Thank you for that bit of info. I was wondering if that wasn’t going to be the case for that wire. I will hook it up and see if it charges. Thank you for your input. Erik
  3. The schematic link from above was indeed a big help. It let me know I was correct in most of my thinking. Still have one hurdle to figure out. I have an alternator with the built in regulator (without a separate voltage regulator). The schematic for that is a little fuzzy to follow for me. So, I have the big hot wire coming from the alternator to the amp gauge. However, there is a second smaller wire coming from the alternator (in a plug) that is also hot all the time. It went to a post on the aftermarket key switch. It seems redundant and unnecessary, as the key switch is already getting power from the other side of the amp gauge. So I’m not exactly sure what I should with that smaller wire that is hot all the time. I might just tape it off, because it doesn’t seem necessary to have 2 powers feeding the key switch. Trial and error for me on this one. Fortunately, I did get it to turn over from the seat today. Not really interested in running myself over like my neighbor did with his 856. Once I get it running again, I’ll make sure it’s charging if I tape off that smaller wire from the alternator. Thanks for the help so far!
  4. I bought a 1066 at an auction and it was described as needing the starter solenoid jumped to start. That part is accurate. Someone was under the dash monkeying with wires, so it is hard for me to determine how the system is supposed to work. There was a badly frayed hot wire coming off one side of the amp gauge, so I unhooked it for the time being. I am not getting power to the start button switch. Could someone tell me how the start system works? I was under the impression the power goes from the key switch, to the start button, down to the clutch safety switch to the starter solenoid. Is that correct? Does the amp gauge have to be in that circuit somewhere as well, or not? Thanks for any help!
  5. I do some dirt work on the side, and I found a CAT dozer that has been traded in from a landfill. The CAT salesman said maybe in a hundred years, and lots of bleach and/or pine-sol on the underbelly and in the cab, then maybe the smell will dissipate. So, my question is, has anyone had to deal with a piece of equipment that smelled like garbage? Does anyone know of any tips to get the smell out and off of it?? I’m sure a good start will be a pressure washer with hot water, and a soap injector.
  6. Not sure what the purpose of your trip is, but nevertheless, I’m not terribly far from Highmore, if you need help or get stranded for some odd reason. In fact, the Highmore location is my preferred location for the local CNH Titan Machinery store. Erik
  7. I have the same problem with my JD 325 skid steer. I use a variety of different hydraulic attachments and have trouble coupling/uncoupling. Like mentioned in other posts here on this thread, I shut the engine off, turn the key back on, with the engine not running, and have my hydraulic lockout toggle switch in the correct position to operate hydraulics. Then I operate the hydraulic lever back and forth a few times to relieve any pressure. Works everytime. Coupling/uncoupling works very easy when I do this. Now, It’s just a habit anymore.
  8. I bought 6 full shuttles of 1500 gal of Powermax last fall for $26/gal. I’m glad I made that decision. However, I missed the Liberty boat. I paid $80/gal yesterday for a full shuttle. I was told it’s due to China shutting down the factories to clean up the air for the Olympics. Who knows… we have to believe whatever they tell us, because I’ll never know the truth, and it doesn’t matter anyway. Truth of the matter is, if we want to the product, we gotta pay the price.
  9. The tractor has around 7000 hours on the meter. I just had the hydraulic oil drained and looked around all over in it as much as I could. I did not see metal anywhere, and the oil looked good. I just got done doing a TA/clutch/MCV job on it. The 3pt arms also wouldn’t lift at all, so I took off the center link plate above the PTO to look at the internal linkage, to make sure that wasn’t goofed up. I bought the tractor not too long ago at a consignment auction, so I don’t know much history on it. I think I’ll go for a seal R&R, and if it leaks again, I guess I will dig further. I’m hoping .010 play isn’t too much.
  10. I noticed the right rear axle seal is leaking a little bit on the 14. I was wondering if maybe the bearings were getting worn, and that is why the seal went out. Does anyone know what the amount of play that is acceptable on those axle bearings? I jacked up the rear housing and measured with a dial indicator, and it was about 10 thousandths (movement). Is that ok, or does that mean the bearings are getting worn? I was hoping to just put a seal on the axle. Looks like a fair amount of work to take the axle housing off to do bearings. Thanks
  11. Do you have any information on the fuel tanks on your 15? I also have them on one of my 1566’s. I was figuring they were aftermarket, but was wondering what company made them. I read somewhere that someone thought Year A Round made them. Any thoughts???
  12. I farmed with a 1468 for a year in 2003. After a year of being disappointed with the low torque of the engine, I sold it and bought a 1066. Liked the 10 way better for farming. Now, I will say I wish I had the 1468 back as I sold it for only $6750. I currently have a Challenger with a straight 7 cylinder at 430hp, and run a v12 in a Challenger, although I do not own that one. V12 has good power and torque as it is rated at 600hp. I got soured on the V8’s after being around the 3208’s and the 903’s in trucks. Haven’t heard one good thing about the triple nickel 555’s either. Now they all seem like they’re collectors items.
  13. Mikes Equipment salvage yard in Buhler, KS had a 1568 cab tractor sitting there for over a year fixed up as a 1566. Good usable machine. It sold for $6000 I believe last year. I told the salesman I’d take it, but I was a few hours too late. It got sold right after the Red Power Roundup and maybe the show motivated someone???? Snooze, you loose.
  14. Looking at purchasing a tractor on a jockeys lot. Understood it to be a 1066 (decals on hood), but after rubbing all the grease off the Serial plate, it says it’s a 1466! To make things more interesting, it has a 414 block, but also says 1466 on the cab serial plate. Does anybody have any good way to determine what it actually is? Maybe measuring the rear axle diameter? I do find it a little far fetched that the previous owner would’ve rolled a 1466 rear end up to the front of a 1066. But, maybe that’s what happened.
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