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About Tracksbeatwheels

  • Birthday 10/11/1942

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  • Location
    Damascus, Oregon
  • Interests
    Where to start. In college, Hiking, Mountain Climbing and scuba diving in Oregon. More recently, Metal Detecting, Fixing things, Helping others, Love Studying the Bible and teaching others. Love learning

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  1. Hi Everyone, IT RUNS!!!! Like so many car problems, I did so many things that I'm not sure what the problem was. I reset the points, set the timing so the impulse drive just tripped, and cranked away. It backfired, so I checked the firing order and swapped two wires, cranked again and she fired up! Runs well. Thank you Reg and everyone else who responded to my cries for help. Without this Forum, I don't think I could have ever solved the problem. Now, I can get down to changing the hydraulic fluid for the blade and welding some cracks in the blade. Hard to do when I couldn't drive it over to the shop. SO HAPPY!!!!, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU ALL! TRACKSBEATWHEELS
  2. Hi again Reg, I used my ohmmeter and the wire to the tower is good and the carbon rubbing area to teh tower reads good, the wires are all good so I am going back to the timing. it must be that the impulse drive is tripping before the rotor lines up with the #1 spot in the distributor, it looks right, but I can{t tell precisely so, I{ll start at the points making sure they are open on the high lobe, then put the engine at tdc plus the 10 to 15 mm, go back and push the mag away from me slowly until the impulse drive trips. and check for spark. Everything was working fine, like I said when I shut it down a few months back. I{ll post how this turns out. I{m sure its something simple I an doing wrong or not doing.
  3. Reg, I have determined to check each of those things out, as soon as the rain stops, something I didn't do was to check the resistance in the wire going to the towwer from the coil, Never thought of that as a possible problem. I'll check all the wires, but the tower to coil one seems important to check first.
  4. Former Marine Corps tank commander, love tracks, my neighbor "loaned: me his 1948 TD6 and I've been playing with it for a year.  I think it wants to stay with me

  5. Hi Reg, Yes it was, but for some reason there were Aussies aboard. It was a grand ship. Now that we are talking about Australia, what's the difference between the Outback and the Bush. I still have no spark to the distributor. The impulse drive snaps perfectly at the right moment. I set the engine at TDC, then advance it ten mm with the Mag loosened and pulled toward me as far as it will go. With the engine at that mark, I slowly push the Mag away from me and lock it down when the impulse drive "snaps", then I lock it down and try to start it but no spark at the distributor. I am going to recheck the points once more. Should I set the points at TDC or at the "M" mark, (which I don't have)? I'm "assuming" that I should set them with the rubbing block on the highest point of the lobe. I cleaned the rotor and the cap the contacts inside are bright and shiny. Oh! One more thing. I shorted the coil to number one plug, but it didn't spark then either, so its back to the points. Maybe the spark isn't strong enough to jump the plug? Maybe I should replace the condenser? I know the coil functions, but if the condenser is weak maybe it would not give a strong spark. I'm learning a lot, surprising how many diesel people have never heard of the IH Gas/Diesel engine. I tried explaining it to a Cat guy and he said I meant "Pony Motor", nope, I told him, starts on gas and runs on diesel, He said "unbeliefvable" LOL
  6. Thanks everyone for your comments, As soon as it quits raining I'll check the rotation again, (I'm sure I did already. the engine turns clockwise and the H-4 Mag turns counter clockwise, but I'll double check. I will also take a closer look at the cap contacts and the rotor. The mag has not been removed from the engine. I took the distributor down to the points to make sure they were adjusted correctly. I'm also convinced that it is something simple and I will kick myself for later, but I am really perplexed. Thanks reggie for the Mag rebuild pages. I have tried printing one and will check it later today. Hey reg, do you live in the city or in the bush? Many years ago while in the Marines, I met some Aussies who took me aboard their ship, The Ark Royal in the Philippines. We had a great time, then I screwed up and said something like, "You limeys really know how to have a good time." to which my friend exploded with, "Limey, I ain't no bloomin limey, I'm Australian!" I will never forget that. ron
  7. Reg, Thanks, I did like you said, at the point that the impulse drive, "snapped" I locked the bolts down, then hooked up number one plug via my spark tester, but no spark. I connected the spark tester to the coil output and cranked it over. Lots of spark! For some reason the spark is not being delivered to the distributor or the rotor and the distributor are still not where they should be. Taking the cap off it looks as though they are where the should be, number one at about two oclock. We're getting closer, but still no ceegar. I really appreciate all the advice you and others have given me. Oh, By the way, the cap and rotor are relatively new still shiney brass inside. Ron
  8. Hi Reggie, Thanks for the update, I didn't realize that I could "time" the magneto simply as you said. That makes a lot of sense. As you and others have said the Impulse drive reacts not at TDC but at 12-15mm "after TDC" I found this out myself by had turning the crankshaft, however the only mark I have on my Crankshaft is the TDC mark. Just to be sure, its 12 - 15mm, not 12 - 15 degrees right? I'm going to check it as soon as we get a dry day, This is Oregon and my 6 is covered with a tarp except when I'm working on it or using it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with those of us who aren't educated yet. ron
  9. Good News! After watching a lot of you tube videos about rebuilding the H4 magneto, I decided to try something to test the coil. I inserted my spark tester into the coil terminal and grounded it. then I cranked the engine and behold! there was spark! so now I know that then problem is in the distributor. Another video showed me that I can adjust the distributor by undoing two bolts and moving the distributor back and forth slowly to get the timing right. I may be very close to having success, but its raining now and I have to wait for the sunshine. I can see the light of day. TRACKSBEATWHEELS Damascus, Oregon
  10. Hi Reg, It makes sense even though I can't find an "M" on the crankshaft pulley. When I move it to about that position the rubbing block is on the lobe.... I'll check to see when the impulse drive trips exactly. I'll go back to your post about not starting on Petrol and see what you have there. Thanks everyone. I hope I don't have to take the mag off the machine. It's alien to me at this point. Thanks everyone, send more ideas as you have them.
  11. Hi Mmi, it is a magneto distributor. I disconnected the grounding wire to be sure that it would fire. I have tried resetting the points, but have not removed the mag or distributor. I don't understand why at (supposedly) TDC the rubbing block is not on top of the distributor lobe. Thanks for your reply
  12. Hi Mmi, it is a magneto distributor. I disconnected the grounding wire to be sure that it would fire. I have tried resetting the points, but have not removed the mag or distributor. I don't understand why at (supposedly) TDC the rubbing block is not on top of the distributor lobe. Thanks for your reply
  13. I'm adding a post, to update my "TD6 won't start" earlier post, because I'm afraid this won't get seen. After everything previous I still have no spark. I removed the breaker cover and set the engine to TDC on the compression stroke, (heard the impulse drive kick over), when I look at the distributor lobes the rubbing block is not on the high point of the lobe. The points are open but it seems the rotor is not quite at the #1 wire. Can the distributor be out of adjustment? Gap on the points is .013 when fully opened. I am used to older gas engines where I could rotate the distributor a little for optimum spark. I don't see any means to do that on the TD6 mag/distributor. Or could there be a timing mark on the crankshaft pully that I'm not seeing? I placed it at a definite mark on the pully. Hoping someone understands this better than I do. It was running when I shut it down at the end of January due to COVID knocking me down. Thanks for the assistance, Tracksbeatwheels Damascus, Oregon
  14. Gas is plentiful, NO Spark now, I just added to the post about what I have done. Thanks for the advice.
  15. Hi all, its been some time since I last posted. Took off the intake manifold, the butterfly valves are in great shape, finally resorted to the carburetor again this time, I took it all the way down and discovered a plug in the suction tube. Reassembled everything, now there is no spark! I have read and reread the magneto and distributor sections and am stupefied. Today I moved the crankshaft to TDC on the compression stroke and the impulse coupling snapped just after TDC. Is the distributor out of time_ Is it adjustable_ I can{t find any spark out of the coil at all. Can the coil be tested_ like I said, everything was running fine when last I shut her down, I messed with the points by resetting them to .013, but that shouldn't have messed anything up. I do notice that when we are at TDC the breaker is not fully on the distributor lobe. I have not taken the Mag off, the extent of disassembly has been to expose the points. I had the wires on correctly fuel now to the cylinders, but no spark. I really need help!
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