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JeTFiN

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About JeTFiN

  • Birthday 08/08/1996

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    Northwest Arkansas, USA

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  1. I'm not sure if it causes any issues, but when I pulled the injectors I noticed every precombustion chamber hole extended in the downward direction like a partial countersink.
  2. Eventually it worked itself free and the fuel pressure is well within operating range. Next to see if I can figure out how to time it. The smoke color seems to be the same white regardless of the timing adjustment which may still be some of my sea foam burning away from before. I have to leave again and will be back at it in another week or so I suppose. I did manage to get a video of it running. It sounds great but still isn't putting out full power. https://photos.app.goo.gl/7g9eM55rEQq9JrmY7 I also noticed a little leakage around nozzles 1 and 3 which may be a sign that there is reduced compression in those two cylinders. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dVY4PNB5Sfqs8b2b9
  3. The fuel pressure gauge mount has arrived and, while it fits well, it doesn't seem to let the fuel reach the gauge and consequentially the gauge reads zero. I have cleaned the part out to the best of my ability and it looks like there is a solid conical wall of steel inside where the gauge screws in and I'm not quite sure how that is meant to allow the gauge to show any pressure. Perhaps there's a spring inside that only allows fuel out when pressurized such that one can replace the gauge while the machine is off without venting the system? I'm not sure.
  4. Today I realized I never simply let it sit and run for a while at near high idle. I also never put any lubricant in the diesel, which I did this time. When walking away from the dozer, the smoke was noticeably more blue and less clear than I thought. The smoke blended in with the sky but not the trees. After running for a while, about 20 minutes, at high idle the engine speed control lever became noticeably easier to adjust. However, after not much longer the water (antifreeze) started boiling over. It seems like the smoke and water boiling may be a sign of retarded timing, right? EDIT: I looked at MB Cat's post, and apparently a blue hazy smoke means the timing is ADVANCED too far, not retarded. As a result, I shifted it back to 2 marks below 0 as a guess and the smoke now comes out white-ish. Until the sea foam-treated diesel runs dry it will be impossible to truly time the engine as the smoke will always come out white or blue with no clear range in between. However, I know that it was blue at 0 and -2 it isn't blue so it is a start. I tried running it again and it seems to drive in 3rd gear now if I am really careful with engaging the clutch. However, after a little while or while going up a shallow hillslope it will still bog down. I suspect either continued timing issues are present (less likely, but still a smaller contributor) or injection nozzle blockages (more likely) are present and will try pulling nozzles tomorrow for inspection. I wonder if there is a way to install a fuel pressure gauge somewhere. The pre-"A" pumps apparently never had one according the the injection pump manual. EDIT 2: Upon reading the injection pump service manual, removing and inspecting the nozzles doesn't look like it is a good idea unless one is certain that the nozzles cause the issues.
  5. https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/41366-wd-40-injection-pump/ Is this it?
  6. https://www.jensales.com/products/ep-141551-international-harvester-sleeve-and-piston-assembly-early-d461-d691.html https://www.jensales.com/products/ep-141552-international-harvester-sleeve-and-piston-assembly-late-d461-d691.html It looks like Jensales has them for sale. You'll have to reference the serial number of your engine (not tractor, but engine) and verify everything looks right. Additionally, here's a handy catalog page that can help you find any other parts that are available there: https://www.jensales.com/products/international-4-cylinder-diesel-d461-engine-kits-and-parts-ih-461-a.html Here is the website of the manufacturer of the cylinder rebuild kit: https://reliancepowerparts.com/Product?productGuid=742695DG&partListId=8491 https://reliancepowerparts.com/Product?productGuid=7258836&partListId=8491
  7. Are you referring to the butterfly valve inside the intake manifold (Illust. 241) which is controlled by the compression release mechanism (Illust. 273)? I'll measure and adjust/verify the dimensions as described in section 219 (Pg. 170) of the service manual. Hopefully one will be wrong so no removal of the intake manifold is required. EDIT: It appears the adjustments on the compression release mechanisms (i.e. lever, not necessarily butterfly valve or anything else inside intake manifold) is adjusted and oriented properly. I will look at MB Cat's injection pump timing guide in detail and see about that, then if that doesn't work I'll come back to the intake manifold and see if any butterfly valves are bound up. Note: I don't suspect this to be the issue as when the compression release lever is switched in the up position the starter motor clearly has to work a lot harder to turn the engine over.
  8. It looks like the filters are indeed new. Well, they're 10 years old but clean as a whistle. Next I will have to try fiddling with timing some more, as I'm unfamiliar with the process and probably did it wrong before. I resolved a fluid leak I became aware of when I came back to an empty tank (convenient timing as I needed to inspect filters anyway, plus only a gallon or two lost) by tightening the water trap glass bowl's screw which was a little loose - oops. The engine still dies when I go into 3rd gear or higher or try pushing any sort of load. I did add headlights and partially restored the oil gauge today which was previously so dirty inside that it was impossible to read. I feel like the lights add character and I'll wire them up eventually but that's a low priority. I also added gaskets to all the fuel caps, hydraulic cap, etc.
  9. I'm not around any hills steep enough but I'll see if I can get something together. As far as I know, there are no provisions for a fuel pressure gauge on this pump. I'm not really sure why, but I'd like to mount one to it somehow. I've found the gauge, I think on Steiner's, but I'm not sure where it was mounted exactly. Good tip on reading MB Cat's instructions. I'll do this when I can get back to it. For now I have to leave to work on my building site for a few days. I'm not sure. I'll check those when I get back to it next time, assuming you're referring to the auxiliary and final fuel filters. A side note: This is the first time I've ever fiddled with a diesel engine, nonetheless injection pump, etc, so thanks for the help so far. I've had a diesel tractor for around a year now from a known previous owner that has required no repairs (I have performed maintenance as required) but this is my first time diving into it, really engines in general. For some reason the only thing that breaks on my car is peripheral stuff (steering, brake pump, etc., not too bad for 350,000+ miles).
  10. No, I didn't, so I did just now. They were both dirty and after cleaning I'm not able to tell if the dozer ran better or not. I'm sure it does, but I run into issues with it bogging down when going into higher gears.
  11. @busted knuckles @Farmall 1466 Are the images visible now? Thanks for letting me know - it seems that pasting photos directly into the text only saves them in my local cache and doesn't allow others to see them. I did some adjusting on the timing of the injection pump as listed in section 3 of the injector pump manual and the exhaust comes out clear after running for a while (see below image and video), the engine seems to die less often, and it feels more powerful. While adjusting the timing I also a gasket out of McMaster Carr Part #8525T71 1/16" Buna Rubber Gasket Material for the cover over the timing adjustment on the front side of the crank case cover in front of the injection pump. Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dR6zsdQCEfnRYDiv9 I also tightened the fan/water pump belt until the maximum deflection was around 3/4"-1" as listed in the operator's manual (linked in a post above) which will hopefully prevent any cooling issues later.
  12. Good news, it runs! I took my time and lubricated EVERYTHING that is listed to be lubricated in the operator's manual and the dozer runs pretty well now. The diesel side no longer runs away, but the governor seems slow to speed things back up when a load is introduced. I'll have to investigate further and see if there are any potential reasons for this, the first of which will be to bring a tachometer and see that the low idle and high idle RPMs are correct (i.e. the engine speed control lever is on the right tooth on the spline), then look through the injection pump manual and look for possible reasons the engine doesn't ramp back up quickly enough. I'm looking forward to next week when the gaskets come in for all the caps and I get to wash the machine off. It feels like one of the steering clutches is a little harder to overcome than the other, which I expect to be a condition that improves with time and lubrication, as well as if the governor gets fixed to where it keeps the RPM steady. The fan and water pump belt is also too worn so that will have to be replaced when the new one purchased here (Jensales IHS134) arrives in the mail soon. Until then, I won't be running it for too long at a time, just long enough to work on timing tomorrow before diving too deep into potential governor issues.
  13. Yes, switching to gas is a very helpful option! I had to learn that one quickly, and to kill the gas with a choke when anything goes out of control while still running on gas. While I did get the injection pump mounted, it was only mounted about 15 minutes before I had to leave for the week so I hope I got enough diesel in the plunger to keep it from going bad for a few days. It seems like the next thing I'll have to do is remove some air bubbles as my very basic bleeding was hampered early on when no diesel would come out of the A or B plugs as noted in the operator's manual. I'd list the names of these plugs as written in the manuals but I'm a few hundred miles away from the operator's manual right now. "A" is down at the bottom middle of the left side opening next to the first fitting from the fuel tank and "B" is on top of the fuel filter closest to the operator's seat. Also, @hardtail good intuition, as the rack/plunger being stuck definitely seemed to be the issue. Regardless of whether it was THE issue, it certainly was AN issue!
  14. Good news! I think I found the issue - the rack and plunger were clearly bound up. I removed the plunger as per the guide M Diesel posted on the thread I linked to previously, then noticed neither rack nor plunger gear would actuate. I placed the plunger assembly in a vise, got a flathead screwdriver, and a very small peen hammer and lightly tapped it loose, adding in some oil to help free things up. To free the rack up, I used the rack adjusting rod nut, being careful to not spin the rack around to throw it out of adjustment. When using the nut (pictured to the right of one of the images), the rack freed up nicely and the plunger wasn't too difficult to free up. Now for reassembly! I'll go to a hardware store and find some gasket material to make new gaskets for all the ones I tore off and ripped up, and hopefully soon it'll be running. I've got to leave for most of the week this upcoming week starting Monday afternoon so if I'm not able to get it back together by then I suppose I'll have to wait until next week to see it run.
  15. I've found a drawing in the injection pump service manual that gives what appears to be the only view of the governor fork It looks like the governor fork may drive the Rack (as seen on the left drawing) which may be bound up. When looking at this procedure on the service manual it doesn't appear to be easy.
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