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idahydro

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  1. Got the left rim wire wheeled, degreased then remounted, then primed and painted. First time using a spray gun and a bit awkward painting it place, but it came out pretty nice all things considered. Looks funny with a shiny wheel attached to the rest of a weathered tractor. Rustoleum Professional Enamel "Rusty Metal Primer" 2 coats, thinned with acetone. Dried so fast I basically painted both coats back to back. Rustoleum Farm & Implement "IH Red", 2 coats, thinned with xylene and about 10% enamel catalyst/hardener. Need to wait for the paint to cure in the sun for a week or so then I'll remount the tire.
  2. Thank you. Those are made as wheel cribs for working on my truck and trailers, so they are a bit wider than optimal with the jack sitting on it but even not sitting on the corners it felt pretty solid when it lowered the axles onto it.
  3. They are certainly old, but I don't think they are original equipment, they are the welded 9 bolt duals style as you can kinda see in this photo rather than the 2 piece bolted style I assume the tractor came with. What did you put on the inside of that rim in the photo you attached? Is that POR15? I've always wondered if that wouldn't make a great protective inner rim surface.
  4. Yes I removed the calcium and was not planning on putting it back, at least for now. Consensus and tire manufacturer recommendations is that ballasting radial tires is counterproductive.
  5. I can't tell if you are joking or not but I haven't died yet! Of course it would be better if the feet of the the jack stand were on the corners of the cribbing instead of up against them. I actually want to put some 3/16" plate on top of the cribs to distribute the load a little better and keep the jack feet from digging in but haven't done it yet.
  6. Thanks folks. I think I'm going to try and roughen them up a bit with a course flap disc and reuse them and see how it goes!
  7. Good question, I was planning on using tubes because I assumed by old rims weren't capable of being run tubeless but after further research maybe they are. I have tubes to install so I'll probably just use them.
  8. My brakes aren't very useful, the right is better than the left but neither are particularly confidence inspiring. Here's what the left looks like inside. LOTS of dust packed in there, maybe a cup and a half, and some literal cobwebs but it doesn't look oily and I think the seal is OK. There seems to be a reasonable amount of friction material left on the discs but I cannot find a spec. That said, the friction surface is smooth not rough, I don't know if it got glassed/burnished at some point and I don't know if that is repairable, sorry not very experienced in these matters. I have 10 x 0.030" shims in the left side. The actuator springs are trash, I was able to take them off very easily with just my fingers. The rubber boot is rotted and useless. The balls and ramps look fine, a little surface rust and dirty but smooth and not pitted. The bull pinion does not appear to have any wear. The brake feel before I took everything apart was fine and travel in spec (~ 2.5") , it just didn't seem to stop the tractor very well. Should I salvage (sand? clean?) he discs I have and if so what is the procedure? I also worry that buying new discs will necessitate buying more shims and I assume they gold plate them since they are now $25+ per shim and I might need quite a few. Anybody with some experience want to give me some advice? Boot looks real good. Are these salvagable?
  9. Just to update this thread, when I took the chains off this spring I inspected the rear tires and the dry rot has accelerated, so rather than end up with a flat somewhere inconvenient I am replacing them. Supply of new tires in this size was pretty limited, local tire shop had few options and inventory and they were very expensive so I took a gamble on some Turkish made Petlas tires (TA110 460/85R34 R1W radials) and had them freighted here. Hopefully the decision to go with radials isn't a mistake on this loader tractor. I might have to make a ballast box to compensate for the lost weight from the fluid leaving the tires. We will see. The cost difference vs bias was only a couple hundred bucks. Service guys charge a mint to dispose of the calcium and I wanted to take the opportunity to repaint the rims, move the valve stem to the inside, and move the hubs out as wide as possible while the tires were off so I decided to try and change them myself. I'm not done yet, but so far one side is fully dismantled without too much incident. I managed with just a couple of 30" tire spoons for tools, a couple jacks, and a length of hose and hose clamp for draining out the ballast. Without a pump I had to leave a hundred and fifty pounds or so of fluid in the tube until I got the tube out which made manipulating the tire on the ground much more difficult. I broke the beads with a floor jack and a 2" ratchet strap. I spread the calcium on the gravel driveway. No chance I would have got the lug bolts or hub bolts off without an impact wrench. The hub bolts look great, some of the lug bolts may need replacement. Here is where we are at so far. Super professional 2x4 blocking under a 6 ton jack stand. The brakes have always been weak on this tractor so I figured I'd take the opportunity to service them while I have easier access. New tires. The extent of the rust on the inner rim. Doesn't penetrate very deeply. The rest of the rim is quite good, a little superficial rust on the outside and some oxidized, chalky paint.
  10. Thank you. I understand the most common location to check for this is under the cover that contains the top link attachment point? And the motor valve plate would require breaking into the hydro to sort out which means I am likely to ignore this issue for the time being. I assume the pressure to try to get away with low rpm operation when you don't need full power out the tractor is that even dyed diesel is over $5/gallon around here at the moment.
  11. Yep, I have been checking the hydraulic oil the way that it is written on my dipstick, which is @ 1200 rpm in N after 3 minutes. Some long forgotten owner made a hash mark with a file or grinder on the dipstick at an area well above the full mark, maybe they were trying to tell me something. Or maybe a file just fell on it. A mystery lost to time. I should have been more clear, when the tractor still moves with the S-R lever all the way to one side, it doesn't surge and it doesn't even seem like it is going into gear, it is more like it holds the tractor in place for a few seconds then slips just a little and the tractor moves an inch downhill then it holds again, repeat. Sometimes it doesn't do this. It isn't actually much of an issue really because I can just use the brake to hold it in place if needed, but I suspect it indicates a problem. The tractor did used to "surge" in and out of gear when I first purchased it, due to a busted and loose left cowling around the S-R lever. The farm who had it last used a bungee run across the dash hooked to the S-R lever to hold the lever hard enough over to keep it in gear when running a harrow with it. I replaced the missing bolts and added an assortment of washers around the cracked mounting holes of the cowling so now it no longer does this, but at some point I hope to repair the fiberglass properly.
  12. Hi folks, I've had an IH 70 Hydro for a year now and use it for general farm loader tractor tasks. It is my first tractor, and I love it. I had a few questions about the hydro operation/quirks that I was pondering as I was mowing the other day. The hydro seems strong generally -- lots of power, seems to pick up fwd and reverse pretty fast. It will easily overpower my brakes, but my brakes are moderately weak. 1) I don't find the "foot and inch" (clutch) pedal very useful. When trying to do precise positioning if I push the clutch in the tractor just freewheels which since I don't have much flat ground means it usually starts to roll downhill which is a loss of control and almost never what I had in mind. So even with some dancing with my other foot on the brake I don't use it much at all for fine positioning and just hold side pressure on the S-R lever to hold the tractor in position. Am I missing something? 2) The tractor will hold in position (mostly) with the S-R lever held to one side or the other but not advanced. Sometimes it will very slowly roll/lurch backwards even with the lever held hard over to the reverse side but not pulled back. Occasionally when I release the lever and let it move back to the center (from either fwd or reverse side) the tractor will continue to hold position, but sometimes instead will start to freewheel -- and I haven't found an obvious pattern. I assume there is an issue with a valve somewhere, or maybe I just don't know about the nuances of how to operate the machine. 3) My hydro is way happier (less groans clicks and whines) when hytran is overfilled by several gallons. Does this indicate a problem, and if so what? Cheers and thanks.
  13. I do cattle work professionally as a veterinarian. I would advise against Highlands if you can avoid them. Most of their perceived advantages are grossly overhyped, they bring little value at sale, and while I'm sure there are tractable Highlands somewhere out there, but I've never met one. I'd recommend you avoid horned cattle in general, they have no advantages and myriad disadvantages, safety being but one. The last highland cow I dealt with a few months back had put the farmer in the hospital earlier that year, stuck him in the back with a horn when he wasn't looking. I think that's the only time in my career I've had a client look thrilled when I told him she was open. He already had the rifle out.
  14. For reference, we've been having good (bad) weather for keeping the driveway clear -- very cold, powder snow, howling wind. I know y'all like pictures, so I took a few shots during the 90 minutes or so I spent opening the driveway back up this afternoon. After first pass. This doesn't really do the drift justice, the high side is probably 7-8 feet high and there is still a foot of snow on the road. And the wind had packed it nice and solid. For these it would be really nice to have a big snow bucket or at least a front blade that was wider than my wheels. My current blade is maybe 50", so I still have to drive wheels into the deep stuff. This was fairly typical of most of the driveway. This is after one pass, going 1-2 mph. Bonus sunset.
  15. I think that's a diesel, it looks like my hydro 70. For reference mine has a beefy loader, cab with heat and a/c, hydro seems good, diesel engine runs good, a very suspect 2300 hours on tach since the tach was non-op when I bought it, leaks a little hydraulic fluid but not too bad, needed a bunch of electrical work, worn tires, needed maintenance and a few other minor things fixed. I have been very happy with it so far. I paid a lot less than 10k this summer out of Montana. But prices vary everywhere and have generally been trending up. I have not found the 312D to be hard to cold start. Has factory ether but I don't have a can in there. I just plug block heater in for an hour or so and she will start right up.
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