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swampdigger

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  1. Anyone know what speed the PTO is on the TD7 and TD8 family? Is it 1:1 with the engine, or maybe a slight reduction? Seems like it was only ever used for the winch option.
  2. I bought a 100c (TD7C) that had been sitting for a few years. It has a gallon of unmixed coolant in the oil pan. I drained that out, and it didnt appear to come back at an amount I could noticed. Slowly leaked in from somewhere. After running the machine for a few hours, I noticed I was getting oil in the coolant. Milkshaking nicely. Im going to pressure test the oil cooler firstly. What else causes 2 way mixing? I was thinking liner o rings which will put coolant in the oil.. but not the other way? Same with injector sleeves? Otherwise, its gotta be head gasket or cracked head? Anyone got an easy way to prove its a head gasket without tearing it apart? If its good, Id rather leave it alone. These machines can be money pits if you try and fix every little issue! Thoughts?
  3. Hey guys, Hardtail: British Columbia.. or maybe bring cash? I guess that's the fascination with a pony motor--easy going -30 cold starts. I agree with all of you.. lot more time and money than just to fix the electric start. I was starting to get nervous though when I wasn't turning up any leads for a replacement ring gear. Reminds you that all these old machines are a $100 part away from being scrap if you can't find a replacement. Thankfully I found a ring gear from FP Smith. Got that, and a brand new starter should be showing up today. Went with a brand new Leece Neville M105611. There's no starter shop here. NAPA wanted $800 for a rebuilt Delco. New starter has all the bells and whistles like a soft start so it doesn't eat ring gears. And they had good CAD drawings, so I could complete measure up and order with confidence. Hah, we'll find out today if it fits. Louie, motor is out. What a prick with all those hoses on the back of the torque converter. Found another thread on tractorbynet where a fellow with a TD7E pulled the motor and left he converter behind. Pony motors are awesome though Shiny new starter: https://prestolitesuperstore.com/Category/M105611/POWER-PRO-Leece-Neville-Starter-Motor-5-kWh-CW-10-Tooth12V-Wet-Clutch
  4. Hi guys. Well, the ring gear in my 100C (TD7C) loader is toast, and I'm nervous that I won't be able to find a replacement. Not to mention, the price of a new ring gear and replacing the starter which is also broken. I was thinking--and someone please tell me why this won't work before I spend a bunch of money. Could I use the main hydraulic pump on the loader as a hydraulic starter? I mean, most gear pumps can be used as a pump or a motor, and in most case, the can be run either direction. Not always, but usually. You take a standard Honda or Briggs gas engine connected to a hydraulic pump. Something 7 to 10HP. This is your pony motor. You'd have to size the pump right so at full throttle on the gas engine, you'd reach idle speed of the main engine. Looks like about 4GPM by my math. The way it works is, there is a "start" valve. Normally that's open, and the suction on the main pump flows through it. When the main engine is running, this start valve is open. Just like normal. When you want to start the main engine, you leave that valve open. Start the gas engine, get the revs up. The hydraulic fluid from the gas pony motor will flow in a circle through this "start" valve. As you close the start valve, fluid is trapped, and is forced to flow through the main hydraulic pump turning it over. We crank it for a bit, then hit the fuel valve and the main engine fires. As the main engine revs up, and exceeds the speed of the pony motor, it'll pull fluid through the bypass check valve. What do y'all think?
  5. Hey Louie, the service manual is in the mail. Unfortunately it's still one and a half weeks away. This weekend I got the rad out, wiring, lines and gauges peeled away from the engine. Removed and capped most the lines out of the torque converter. Lots of room to work with that rad out if the way. Does the drive shaft have a slip yoke like a pickup truck? Im thinking it doesnt, and the ujoint strap need to be removed. Any tips? Hopefully get the engine out later this week.
  6. Well, the reason I got it cheap was because the ring gear on the flywheel is toast. Missing lots of teeth because the starter is not disengaging properly. It needs a new ring gear and starter pinion. I'm going to pull the engine this weekend. What's the easiest way? -should I pull the radiator for space? looks easy enough -should I leave torque convertor attached to engine? Thanks
  7. Thanks Louie. Thats exactly what I was looking for. I'll have manuals in a few weeks, but thats fills in some gaps for now. I've got some work to do on that throttle linkage. I'll get some pictures. Just waiting for the ground to dry a bit, then we'll build some roads. Little idea what I'm doing. Got a gravel pit, this 100C and a 200 hoe. More energy than brains, couple of kids we are. Thanks again Louie. Man thats a deadly little ripper on the back or your loader. Is that the stock unit?
  8. Hi guys. I'm the new owner of a 100C (TD7C in loader trim). I ordered the service and owners manuals already (first step with new iron). While I wait.. a few questions for you folks: -The throttle lever on the dash. Which position is the cold start position I'm hearing about? There seems to be a large notch at the very bottom--I'm thinking that is "stop". Just up from stop, like the lowest RUN throttle position.. is that cold start? I think my low idle is set too low, it dies at the lowest run position. -Should I hit the decelerator when shifting with the power shift? Or is the best at full throttle? I come to a complete stop before switching FWD and REV. But between 1,2,3 in the same direction.. full throttle? -The D206 absolutely screams. Even with nice Peltor 105s on, my ears ache after a while. I gotta get a new muffler and stack and get it above the roof. But do you guys run these things at 100% full throttle? Maybe it's the lack of muffler, but it seems pretty wound out. Wish it had a tach. -Factory oil gauge shows it barely in the "RUN" zone after warm up with new 15w-40. I hope the gauge is just no good -Found a gallon of coolant in the oil. It's been sitting for a few years. It was pure coolant, no milkshake. I think it happened while it sat. Other threads talk about liner o-rings. Hoping that what it is. Maybe a slow drip over 2 years. Coolant holding steady over night and at pressure. I'll be keeping an eye on it. Thanks everyone
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