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Absent Minded Farmer

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Posts posted by Absent Minded Farmer

  1. 3 hours ago, Sledgehammer said:

    So a buddy sent me this picture. What was it for?  Narrow row cultivating? Looks?  Some sort of specialty?


    There was an option for duals that looked something like that for the H. Used 36" rims. Can't recall what they're used for.


  2. Ironsides or Road Runner. Get around 7-8 years out of them. The only Ironsides I don't like is the series 31 in my 560. The damn thing leaked from the top cover & it's replacement leaks from the same spot. Otherwise I never had an issue with them.

    Think the Road Runners are Deka. Don't recall & too pooped to search tonight.


  3. 6 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

    I have a couple antique vehicles I would like to make stainless fuel tanks for. One being the Dodge Power Wagon and the other our Load Star tanker. I have a bunch of stainless kegs 15.5 gallon and I have the ability to weld them. Would i get away with making fuel tanks from them or would some Agency step in and flag it? Where would i find a fuel gauge for such a thing? Even if it was just one mounted on the tank. IMO both could benefit from small capacity tanks filled often. 

    The first thing I thought of for a fuel gauge is what was used in Model A's. Just a cork float on a rod in the tank & the tank was behind the dash. The readout, glass & bezel are on the dash in the cab. Real simple setup & I would almost think the rod is short enough to not hit the sides if you mount it in the middle of a horizontally oriented keg.


  4. I like mine. It's old 'n' tired, has blow-by, the loader isn't the tightest anymore & it leaks like a sieve. Still starts every time & does what I want. The brakes could be powered, in my opinion. Stopping that tractor with a mounted loader, four post ROPS canopy & trencher is not always the easiest. Kind of like the discs are greased, but upon inspection they are dry & look to be fairly new yet. Road gear can be a bit of a challenge, too, especially on hills. I attribute that to the weight & tired engine.

    Otherwise, great tractor. It paid for itself in the first few months around here just getting the property cleaned up. That trencher was quite handy for digging up the smaller roots from the Russian Olive "grove" we couldn't get rid of.


  5. Just wanted to let everyone know that the Richfield WI Thresheree is coming up next weekend, the 17th & 18th.... ALREADY!!  (Didn't we just start Summer??!) I'll leave a link to the web page here ↓↓↓


    And yes, there will be some real red tractors floating around the grounds. The mill building is also red, if that counts. Some of the milling equipment in there would have been "orange" though, as it's E. P. Allis. That's the gentleman that owned one of the companies that became Allis-Chalmers. When I was at the show last year, they had just moved a large stationary engine to the side of the mill & built a shed over it. Will be interesting to see if they have it belted up to the equipment yet or not.

    Would also like to mention that it is a rather picturesque show ground. The main body of it is secluded in the trees  & the tractor display & demo area are on the other side of the tree line. It all makes for quite the nice setting.

    Am I really good at advertising? No! So.... come see the show & find out for yourself what I'm rambling on about.


  6. You can still find lots of Gehl 72/7200's around. Gehl specific parts are somewhat available. Bearings & whatnot are common. Knives can be sourced through Flailmaster. There were also direct cut & flail heads available for their earlier choppers. All should be fairly affordable.



  7. 52 minutes ago, BartVD said:

    I bought the Cub.

    Here some photos.

    On the engine I can read : FCUBM127849.

    Is this the engine serial number or the tractor serial number?





    That's the engine serial number. Don't recall if the tractor number is supposed to match it or not. Also, looking at the back wheels, you have the high crop or high clearance version of the Cub. That's a very nice find!!

    Regards & good luck on your restoration!


  8. 15 minutes ago, Art From Coleman said:

    Prior to plowing, he made a video where he run a tandem disk through the grass and weeds. It would have helped had he picked the wheels up so that all the weight was on the blades, instead of being partially carried by the wheels, as it turned out, all he accomplished was making a mat out of the weeds and grass, and as it appears, almost none of the cover crop had been cut up by disking it.

    Must be a new guy putting in a food or deer plot?


  9. 2 hours ago, axial_al said:

    I think what it is telling you is that the ramp and roller of the ta over-running clutch were slipping.  Eventually it will slip more and more until you install those parts.  Most folks install the whole unit as the ta clutch, throw out bearing and ta clutch fingers are probably pretty worn also.  Good luck.

    Thanks axial! Is there a good resource for the ramp & rollers? Not sure I'll replace the whole TA unit unless necessary. Guess when I get that far, the throw out bearing & fingers will get looked at too. Hope it holds up for a while yet. Just have hay to make, so no heavy work & don't really need the TA much for that anyhow.


  10. I made my first cutting of hay with the F560 this year & ended up having to readjust all the linkage again. I don't ride the clutch, but it get's used quite a bit as I loop my corners to keep the field square. Apparently, the clutch did not like that & the shifter was binding in DD when I tried to pull it out if gear after the field was done. Not so bad where the TA lever needed to be pulled back, but close. So, I went over the clutch pedal adjustment & went over the TA clutch lever adjustment. There was still a binding in the shifter. Got down & loosened the nut on the short connecting linkage between the clutch & TA & tightened the turnbuckle half a twist. Put it back together & tried again. The shifter lever was better, but still a bit tight. Opted to give the clevis another half twist & that took care of it. The shifter popped out of gear nicely. Clutch adjustment is good. Takes about 3 - 4 seconds for me to put it back into gear at idle. Pops right back in with a click. I putzed around, going through all the gears for a minute & everything checked out. Put it in 4th, pulled the TA lever back, let the clutch out & it went zizzzz! Didn't go anywhere. Didn't have many pleasant things to say after that & kept them to myself. Tried again, & I was off. Shifted up to DD & it was fine. Hit the brakes & pulled the lever & it slowed down just fine. Played around with it for about 20 minutes after that & it won't do it again. This has happened twice before, in about the 10 years that I've owned it. I can't seem to get it to repeat the offense so I can figure out what's wrong & fix the dumb thing.

    Is there some adjustment that isn't quite fine tuned yet or is the TA telling me it's not long for this world?


  11. Is it a late '53? Adding to what Bitty said, green castings have to mellow for a couple months before they're machined & thrown on the assembly line. Though I wonder how much of that holds true when a company is squeezing out hundreds of tractors in a short period of time? I had a W6 that had something about a "New Pattern" marked on the rear end housing, under the date code. Not sure if that one sat or was used up right away. The rear was the same between that & the M, so it could be possible that it didn't cure for too long.


  12. 11 hours ago, Brady Boy said:

    After a 2 year hiatus, the Annual Vintage Harvest was held, just east of Davenport WA.  I always enjoy watching the old machines operating in the wheat fields.  Enjoy.  BK



    That's a wonderful & well put together video! Had to skip through a bunch so I can get back to work, but I'll be enjoying it on the big screen when I'm done for the day.

    Thanks for posting!


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