int 504

Because they are confused with pound sand which they would probably hear if they were near me.

That screw driver could be close quarters but also think increased leverage for stubborn screws. i bought some P&C wrenches in the seventies from an industrial type hardware that was going under and had them on sale. They are more modern looking said to be economy line for Proto. I still have them and still as good as new even though they have seen some use as I work(ed) on heavy equipment.

I used to run a battery system back in the late 70's. Nothing fancy just rv lights and a car battery. I would swap out with car but I got lazy and parked car outside of window and ran a couple of wires in to battery in house. If I stayed up too late or something and the car wouldn't start it was on a hill so gravity solved that.

A follow up on the studded chains. They are off road only....will be hard on concrete and will do a number on pavement.

Look for Trygg studded ice chains. Pricey but there are alternative brands with the same kind of square cross loops with serious studs. These are the best for ice and frozen ground.

I don't know when it wasn't included. Mine is a four volume set. Framing is in vol 3. I've seen later ones that are in one large volume but I don't remember what was in the later ones and I have only retained my first set. I'm no expert on timber framing but I'll share what little I know in general terms. Square timbers are more efficient for posts as compressive strength is determined by area ie 8x8 timber has a factor of 64. 6x10 a factor of 60. For timbers tensile strength is width x depth squared so 8x8x8=512 6x10x10=600. Early barns square timber later barns rectangular timber also affected by what size logs you have and type of sawmill. A common error I've seen in some recent construction is to notch out carrying timbers for floor joists or rafters for purlins, etc. Think about what happens to the depth of the timber. From full depth to minus depth of notch ie 10 inches to six inches. A change from 10 times 10 to 6 times 6 or 100 down to 36. Like encouraging a trim board to bend by cutting grooves across the back of it. A tenon that projects from the end of a post is fine. A beam that just buts up to a post with a projecting tenon pinned in isn't as you have reduced the beam to the size of the tenon as far as tensile strength goes. A ledge in the post for the beam to sit on is better in addition to the pinned tenon of course. I guess thinking about how much wood is taking the load should be part of the design process. I also know that there are lots of recent and old buildings that have less than ideal joints are fully functional and have stood the test of time. I also know that in order for timber frames to meet engineering design and building code requirements in some places a lot of stainless steel reinforcing weldments are concealed inside the timbers. I hope this helps and once again I'm not a pro framer.

Old sets of Audels carpentry manuals cover timber frame construction. My edition from 1923. I didn't think it is now a 100 years old....A modern reference would also be necessary as there have a been a lot of changes in materials, regulations and so forth. The Audels is really good as far as joint design and clearly illustrating what not to do and explaining why.

The second one is a bearing scraper. That's a tang type chisel but I've never heard of that brand. The B might also mean something.

Rubber mat/old conveyor belt on floor.

The mig makes a distinctive hissing/crackling sound when it's running correctly. Try and position the gun and your head so that you can see whats happening. HTH YMMV

An elderly neighbor couple who farmed wanted to get a barn cat from shelter. Would live in barn with their one milk cow, get milk at milking time, food , checked by vet etc. The shelter denied adoption because they didn't think it would get "love". They do lie about dogs previous behavior. Told us dog had no issues. Found out later it was a known runner and chaser of deer.

I think an indecent coffee maker might be handy.

Hamilton Marine has the tinned wire/cables and crimp terminals that heat shrink on after crimping. It all costs more but is essential in a marine environment.

I was mechanic on a pipe job years ago when an over enthusiastic operator manged to drown a 5800 Link Belt in the Androscoggin River. This was a memorable occasion that fortunately did not result in any deaths or injuries even though the operator did not know how to swim. I can still see him sitting on top of the house waiting for the boat the company safety director didn't have.

Used a tire shop years ago with multiple holes out through the roof and walls. One guy killed during my time in the area. The holes had been patched. Still never saw a cage there.

looks like a tubeless tire???

Unlimited cooling allows for higher horsepower.

had Euclid scrapers at work with 4-71 up front and two 4 53's out back. Two bowls, no turbos. Add Drott with 12v 71 and roller/compactors plus trucks and dozers-absolutely no danger of not being able to find job site.

Friend drove a truck mounted snow blower that had a 4 cyl Climax that powered the blower. Town got the bright idea to have him leave the airport and clear the road out to the dump. So he went out and back happy as a clam. Upon arriving back at the airport the manager came out and said the town manager called upset about all the broken windows in houses along the road. Apparently the thing would fling beer bottles that were in the snow like bullets some of which went through a few house windows. He didn't leave the airport again.

Heavy Equipment Forum might have something if it is still around.

Cant dog doesn't have the point. Good for turning logs around a saw mill. Peaveys are used in woods and were used on log drives.

I liked the "drive it 5 minutes and you'll hit something".

That's not uncommon for a saw that hasn't been run for a long time. Sometimes once you get one of those going and use it more frequently it works as it should. Worth a try as long as it doesn't scream out lean. If it exhibits lean symptoms you can't correct with the screws-STOP and go to your initial plan of compression test and replace rubber stuff.

I had a 365. It was a good powerful saw. Not XP so less expensive. Some of the later ones were 72 cc. I can't really recall how many motorcycles I encountered that were running until somebody took them apart for no good reason.... I would put some fresh gas and oil in it and fire it up and try it on some wood before I did anything else to it.

You could try Mcmaster Carr.