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02WS6SSZ71

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  1. For those following along with my dreadfully slow diagnostics (sorry, been out of town), I got a moment to throw on my spare carb today...tractor idled down (a bit too slow) and ran clean, no black smoke. Rough idle gone as well. Maybe the grease was the missing ingredient? If it rains tomorrow I will throw the other carb back on with float adjusted and original butterfly installed and see what that yields.
  2. I have 4 vehicles using Champion brand radiators with zero issues. Fit has been good, welds have been good. These are usually in the $250-300 range on ebay....not sure if they are making tractor rads, but if they were I would trust them.
  3. I ran them again after the first carb rebuild since I monkied with both at the same time and thought it more likely the valves than a simple carb rebuild, but they were all good when I rechecked them. Also checked compression a few weeks ago just for grins...had 150-155 psi on all 4, so I'm guessing valves are closing up.
  4. Quick update...had a few min yesterday to look over the carb again, focusing on the throttle plate orientation as a couple of you suggested. I am still certain it is installed in the correct fashion, with the 12 deg imprint up and tapers in the correct orientation to seal up against the throat of the throttle body. I went ahead and pulled the plate, which was the new replacement that came in the kit. Looking at the plate, one tapered edge looks "right," the other (opposite end) taper looks less extreme, to the point that you barely can notice a taper exists. I had my significant other, who knows nothing about what she was looking at, look at it as well to make sure my eyes weren't playing tricks and she agreed the tapers on opposite ends were not the same angle. So, I have stuck the old throttle plate back on. At this point I am regretting not just buying a gasket kit, needle and seat and foregoing the rest. That was all the time I had as bike riding and shooting BB guns took priority, so next chance I get I will further adjust the float and see if those two changes help me out. Also have the spare carb ready to test as well, may try that first. Thanks again to everyone
  5. 5 kids?!? Now I know why you were accused of being a dick in a thread the other day! 2 is 2 more than I can handle. But in this crazy world, if you bring 5 level headed kids in to the mix to help balance out the turds, I applaud you
  6. There's the problem 350, the 450, and the wide front donor 350. Scored a set of front weights to match the 450 as well. Will try to get some useful carb pics asap.
  7. Yes, dug all the old graphite crap out and replaced. Rebuild was done with a "comprehensive" kit, which has lead me to question many of the parts in the rebuild that didn't need replaced but I replaced because I had them
  8. I am pretty confident in my install on the butterfly...it really can't be turned end for end without being ridiculous, and I have it so the 12 deg stamping is facing outward. I did, however, find it possible to have the butterfly rotated slightly due to some slop in the screw holes, which would prevent it from closing completely. I made sure to hold the throttle shaft closed while tightening up the screws. All this said, I refuse to rule out me being stupid as the cause of my problems. How would I monitor what the governor is doing to the throttle with the carb bolted up? I will certainly move the float some more, and agree regarding the SG of gas...have encountered the same thing on car carbs. Thank you ALL very much for your responses, I am VERY open to suggestions and will report back as I sort this out. It is very frustrating because it is a simple carb, I have rebuilt the carb for my 450 successfully, along with much more complicated car carbs. But clearly something is off here. It will be a few days before I can get back to the shop as my 6 yr old has started spring break, but I will keep you all updated...may be able to sneak away Sunday for a bit. I will see if I can post up some pics of the carb going together and a couple of my old tractors for those playing along. Thanks Alan
  9. I've been running it with the carb drawing air straight in to the throat most recently to see if that leaned it out and so I could watch for fuel spillover. Choke is staying open, ball/spring does a pretty good job of keeping it open. Throttle lever adjustment unknown, but unchanged from when I bought it. One thing I will say that I assume is NOT right...there is no spring tension on the throttle lever to yank it back to an idle as my 450 does. I assume this is some function in the governor, but I hadn't started to worry about it because as mentioned the tractor ran pretty darn well before opening the carb.
  10. Intake is new "high performance" manifold from Steiner as the threads were less than perfect at the exhaust exit after someones sad attempt at booger welding the upright pipe.
  11. Got a little time to mess with this yesterday. Returned original float/needle/seat, checked height and it was dead on spec, installed on tractor and checked float level externally as before, 1/16 difference from having the new float/needle/seat installed (now 7/16 down instead of 3/8, recommended spec 9/16-21/32). Ran tractor, same result. Back apart, tweaked float 1/8" (new external level 1/2, still a bit high), replaced idle jet and discharge nozzle (main discharge jet per my IH manual...trying to get my nomenclature in line) with originals. Note differences from original and replacement nozzle in original post. This seemed to lean the tractor out, less to no black smoke until throttled up quickly, as expected, but tractor is still running "rough" and the idle air mixture screw still does nothing, and idle speed is still too fast with idle stop backed all the way off the throttle shaft. Turned the fuel adjusting needle valve all the way in to seated with the tractor running 3/4 throttle and the tractor keeps running, which is very confusing as this appears to be the only entry route for fuel into air. Pulled out the replacement needle valve and stuck in the original, same result. Tractor clearly leans out a bit when I do this, but continues to run without a huge noticeable change from seated to 5 turns outs, all this with the tractor up to temp and 3/4 throttle. Sooo....perhaps there is still some gunk despite what I consider to be a VERY thorough cleaning, and otherwise, I'm lost until you smarter folks make suggestions. I did run up to the farm today and stole the carb off my "parts" 350 (which is complete, in good running order, and probably too nice to part), and I will slap it on and see how that behaves, but likely will be a few days before I can get to it. Thanks again for any and all help!
  12. I'll try to keep this as short as possible, but in short I'm dealing with a PIG RICH condition after a carb rebuild. Recently purchased '57 350, ran pretty well when I dragged it home. The stand pipe off the manifold had been goober brazed at some point and broke loose when I pulled the muffler off, and carb was a little leaky, so I pulled it all, put on a new manifold and gaskets, set valves, and did a complete rebuild on the carb, including throttle shaft bushings and a new float. Soaked in Berrymans for a couple days, sprayed all passages with carb cleaner, and blew everything out with air for cleanup. Put it back on the tractor and it was clearly rich with black smoke at idle and throttled up. New plugs were installed before startup and they were black after a short run, def fuel, not oil. Idle air screw changed nothing at idle, all the way in and all the way out, no change in RPM or richness. Main high idle screw turned all the way in to half turn from seated did nothing to help. I pulled it all back down and assumed I still had junk in carb passages somewhere. Into the ultrasonic cleaner for a good 12 hrs. Got quite a bit of black crap out of it and figured I had it licked. I did compare the nozzle this time around and noticed that the old jet had 3 equal sized sets of holes, whereas the new nozzle had one hole (closet to the threads) larger than the other two. I called the provider of the carb kit and he confirmed that the proper jet for the 350 should have one pair of holes larger than the other two, so I left the new nozzle in and assumed the trash was likely causing bypass of the idle circuit and creating my rich condition. Put the carb back on, same result. Float was set to spec (1-5/16) with machinist measure in 64ths, throttle body upside down, no gasket, checked both sides on the float to make sure they were equal. With the tractor off, gas flow open, there was no gas running into the bottom of the carb bowl so I know the needle/seat was doing its job. However, on the 2nd rebuild I did find that if I shut the tractor off without shutting off the gas first I would see a little gas spill down and run out the weep hole in the bottom of the carb. I found a spec for checking the float externally so I set up a clear tube off the carb drain. Spec showed gas should come up the clear tube to within 9/16-21/32 of the carb parting line...mine was 3/8" from the parting line....damn near a 1/4" too high! Left sit for 15 min and it never climbed, confirming needle and seat working. How could I set the float dead on and have the outside level appear to be so far off? How far should I tweak the float to try to correct this? Surely not 1/4"... Should I be looking somewhere else? Is the nozzle hole size a concern to anyone? Should I put the old nozzle in or just monkey with the float first? Any thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated.
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