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Dave Mac

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  1. Well I took the bolts to my local Engineers, but they suggested I get some HT threaded rod. So I have done that cut it to length and welded a nut on the end. So wish me luck ! Thanks for your comments Dave
  2. Thanks Mike I have tried to extend the thread with a die, but as you say it doesn’t work too good. I will take the bolts to a machine shop and see if they can do it. Thanks for the warning on the IH trap, I will mark and photograph every step along the way. Cheers Dave
  3. The manual calls for three 7/16 UNC bolts 2-5/8” long into the tapped holes in the steering clutch hub plate, and run them up tight to compress the clutch spring. Problem is I can’t get 7/16 UNC bolts that long that are threaded all the way. Is it necessary to compress the spring to get the clutch out of the tractor, and if so is there another way to achieve this ? Dave
  4. Hi All This is what I have done with my broken track adjuster for anyone interested. I turned some billet mild steel and threaded it so it would go on the old shaft, then I turned down the adjuster end of the shaft so about an 1” fits snugly inside the the threaded steel. I am going to weld it in place at the adjuster end, so I can still adjust the tracks as before. By removing the two bolts and rotating the sleeve to suit. I guess time will tell how this works out ? Cheers Dave 8
  5. Dowels out and cover off, doesn’t look to bad in there, now for the fun part !
  6. Great thank you Mike, I will go get a nut for them today.
  7. Hi Guys Well I just got back to my BTD6 today after three weeks away, I have almost got the top cover off so I can remove the clutches, but I ran into a snag that someone might be able to help with. I have all the bolts removed and the Clutch control rod pivots but there are two dowels one on each outside edge that are about 1/2” threaded. See photo. I have never seen this type of dowel before, there is nothing in the maintenance manual but they are called dowels in the parts manual. I guess I need to get a nut to fit and tighten it so it pulls the dowel out ? They are both stop
  8. I guess this question has been answered on RedPower many times, but I am a relative newbie to the site, and having owned a TD6 many years ago and now restoring an English assembled BTD6, I am thinking what happened to this company ? When I was just a kid in the sixties, a close family friend worked for IH selling trucks, and machinery. I have lots of good memory’s of riding around in New International pick up trucks, and on one occasion I recall going on a journey in a large International truck with a new BTD6 on the back for delivery to a farmer. At the time there was and still is a
  9. Made a start on getting the clutches out today, see photo. surprised all the bolts came out o.k. Wasn’t so bad so far, but I think the fun part is about to begin !
  10. Thanks Ray, I wondered about that, I do remember I couldn’t get on for a couple of days about that time.
  11. Hi Woopig i have just done the same thing with a 1967 BTD6 Bulldozer, it too was left on a hillside for ten years without being run, the way I approached it was I wanted to be sure the engine was reasonably ok before racing into a project that wasn’t worth the effort. I did have the knowledge that it was running ok when it was parked up. So this is how I handled it : 1. Determine by hand turning the engine if it is free to turn and not seized, then check the oil level and condition of the oil it should be jet black, not milky grey or sludgy or overfull, which would indicate water is
  12. I don’t know what happened to my replies to the above posts, somehow they disappeared ? Anyway thanks to all of you for your advice, I have a BTD6 workshop and parts manual, and smallish hands so the next job will be that seized steering clutch, as soon as I have sorted the track adjusters.
  13. Nothing is too hard, but the impossible takes longer !
  14. Hi Rawleigh Thank you for your input, that is in fact what I decided, in fact I have a local Engineering company making some collars today, one is internally threaded to go on the broken adjuster shaft on one side, like a turn barrel, and the other is not threaded but will be secured by the lock nut at one end and by the lock adjuster at the other end, and clamped in place. I remembered that one of the adjusters on the old TD6 I had years ago had the same problem, and someone fitted a spacer, in the same manner, and it never caused me any problem for the five years I owned and operated i
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