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Dave Mac

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  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    Anything built by Ford, especially vintage Ford trucks. Harley Davidson motorcycles and vintage International tractors.
    Currently rebuilding 1967 BTD6 Bulldozer, 1950 Farmall M .

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  1. Nice day for a cruise in the country, very relaxing going down a country road listening to the sweet sound of a vintage tractor slurping fossil fuel 🤠
  2. Great looking old tractors Mike but with due respect, I think I will pass on this outstanding opportunity. Still have my dear old Farmall M to keep me amused …………. To be honest I won’t lose any sleep if I never saw the inside of a steering clutch again. 🤠 Cheers Dave
  3. My BTD6 is now happily working on a small forestry block, I wasn’t trying to sell it, but the opportunity came up and it has gone to a good home and getting plenty of use. Big thanks to everyone who helped with advice and encouragement while it was in many parts. I enjoyed the challenge. Cheers Dave
  4. My BTD6 had the same issue, sometimes usually after the first start. So I would have to stop the engine and restart with a gear selected, and the clutch lever in the release position then it was ok. i eventually cleaned out the grubby clutch and compartment using CRC brake clean on the released clutch, then regreased everything and it has not had a problem since. I figure it probably had some old oil/grease contamination causing the plate to stick. This machine sat outside not being used for years, so there could have been anything that got in there I guess.
  5. Removed the manifold and the gasket was blown out. New gasket fitted and the engine runs like new now. Happy Days !
  6. I finally got around to checking out the manifold on my Farmall M today. You were right on the money mrfred54, I warmed it up and sprayed some ether around the manifold and immediately the engine sped up and ran smoothly, I haven’t taken it off yet but it looks like I need a new manifold gasket. Cheers and thank you. Dave
  7. Never had a new tractor, so I don’t know. However I understand any tractor that can exceed 50kmh needs to be registered under a different category and have a warrant of fitness for road use. So given that a new Ute costs about $350 plus $75 for a WOF, maybe it’s similar.
  8. Vintage Tractor Registration is really no big deal here. It just cost me NZ$27.63 for twelve months. There is no condition inspection required, except that you are required to keep the machine in a road worthy condition. If you are only travelling short distances say farm to farm there is no requirement to register, but if it is registered you can drive it anywhere. There is a max speed restriction which is not a problem for a vintage tractor. Oh and the other requirement is the driver must have a current unrestricted driver licence. Dave
  9. Hi Mike Hope you are getting thru the winter ok…………. Thanks for your input I will investigate that intake manifold this week, hope it’s just a gasket. It starts fine and runs ok at idle but starts popping when it warms up and above idle. Now have it registered for the road. So looking forward to a roadie when the warm weather gets here. Dave
  10. Farmall M has developed a backfire into the intake when warm and above idle. I suspected a sticky valve considering the tractor sat for years without running. However I removed the rocker cover and checked tappet clearances hot and while running and they are ok. Compressions are all even and timing is good. The engine has a magneto and I fitted new points and condenser not long ago. I am thinking it may have an intake leak possibly from the manifold gasket but haven’t checked that yet. Anyone else experienced this issue ? It is a bit inconsistent but when it backfires it blows a small amount of oil out of the air cleaner oil bath.
  11. Agree with Mike 100% and if it becomes free go and buy a lottery, because your luck is in !!! I have done both clutches on my BTD6 last year and you will need a good workshop manual, a sense of humour and lots of determination. On the bright side there is a wealth of experience on this forum who are always happy to help with advice. All the best. Dave
  12. I think after a twelve hour shift on this machine, any tiny “weep” from a ram seal will be the least of my worries Mike !!! My body will be reminding me that it is much older than the tractor 🤠
  13. I have a sneaky suspicion that the oil I took out was synthetic and no one could even spell that in 1967 let alone consider using anything but mineral oil. Big thanks to Mike for pointing me in the right direction on this one…….. Nothing beats experience. Cheers
  14. A bit of a lesson with the grade of Hydraulic oil in these old tractors, when I got the machine from my brother it had very thin almost clear oil in the tank, and he was complaining that the hydraulic pump leaked even after he had it overhauled. Now with the thicker ISO 68 oil there are no leaks and the rams are much more reactive !!
  15. Blade and hydraulics all connected today, I went with the ISO 68 oil and all is good so far and no leaks ! looking ready for work at last ( almost ) I have a job moving dirt for a friend on a small farm, probably take about eight hours, that should sort out any problems. Then back to the shed for a new coat of paint. Dave
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