walker450
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If you all would like to see more pond building pics etc, I made a thread on another forum here: Pond Build Thread Link
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If anyone has a 575 they could drop off at my place, I could build this pond in about the same time it takes to finish my thermos of coffee in the morning The 20E has been picked up, it was kind of sad loading it on the trailer. I enjoyed visiting with the truck driver, he ran Dresser's years ago, said he ran one like mine when it was brand new, he said they were tough machines, I have never heard anyone say anything to the contrary. I hope the last few pictures haven't been upside down for everyone. I am using the same phone to take and upload pictures so I have no idea why they would flip. Also, the trailer they loaded it on was very nice, Nuttall, the driver is friends with the owner and would pull the prototype trailers. This one has a fold down tounge, very very slick.
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I'm estimating the 20E pushes 3x as much dirt per pass. However, I am probably achieving the same amount of work with the rental vs the injured 20E with regards to moving dirt. Pushing over trees wouldn't even be a comparison. This rental is very comfortable to run and is very speedy in all aspects. I am amazed at the technology they have standard. The blade will move itself depending on what settings you have enabled. This is all done without laser or GPS, it is an inertial sensor on the blade that sense the position and will hold the position you want. I'm just using it on the last finish passes and I, being rather inexperienced, can really move along in a hurry.
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Happy New Year!! I operated the rental for a few hours yesterday morning. It rained a half inch over night so will be shut down for a few days. This was the largest machine available at this time. My friend is coming over this week to help as well, I will post some pictures and end this thread as a pond build thread
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Update: I have sold the machine. A man brought a mechanic and I walked them through every detail that I knew, etc. He agreed to buy and they will pull cam and repair as needed and it will see more life. I just can't commit to it with a new baby at home and it is too good of a machine to sit. Thanks for all of the advice along the way. I have a CAT D5 (105HP) rental that gets delivered tomorrow that I will finish the pond with.
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Thanks for the thought that is nice!!
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Shawnee, Oklahoma
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Ran it a few hours and it was running strong but then started losing power. Pulled the valve cover and there is play in #6 and #8 intake again, just like you guys said would happen. It ran really good so I feel like if I or someone else addresses this problem they'll have a good machine. I'll check with some local machine shops and see if they're up to rebuilding the cam and I'll see if I can find lifters so I can pass that info on to whoever may be interested in buying it. At this point I'm not interested in doing the work myself that's way deeper than I want to go so I'm also listing the machine for sale and at least they'll know what they're getting into. Obviously I'm going to stop operating it and it's next journey will be onto a trailer. I'll send R Pope a message as well. Thanks again for everyone's input and advice on this adventure. Merry Christmas!!
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Thanks again for the advice guys. I did not contact R Pope. Thanks for the info regarding reworking existing cam. Got it back together and it is running smooth so far, in the shop anyways. Will make another post after pushing dirt. Start up vid, revved it up slightly s few times, it doesn't smoke at idle now:
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So it sounds like that by me adjusting the lash it is going to compound the problem even more and just wear it down more?? So only the "surface" of the cam is hard faced?? This is bad news thank you for bringing that up I did not consider that.
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I pulled the pushrod from #8 intake and it is straight as can be, no unusual wear, so just like #6 intake the issue must be wear on the cam or tappet. I was able to get another turn on the adjustment bolt and am now at the proper .013 lash..... I have to borrow or buy a dial indicator to get a reading on how much lift there is. I recorded a video of the valvetrain operating, not sure that it is useful for anything but here it is, you can see that all valves operate, #2 is closest and #8 is farthest away. The far outside is exhaust so the second one from the left is #8 intake and the 3rd from left is #6 intake.
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Adjusted the valves last night... all but 1 needed tightened. #6 intake was the one that had the rocker arm off... I was able to get it on and adjust it back into spec, but the adjustment bolt is down approximately 3/16" lower than the others which tells me the cam or tappet is wore down. More bad news: #8 intake was very loose. I have the adjustment bolt all the way in and there is still about 1/8" of gap when there is supposed to be .013" .... I don't know how that rocker hadn't worked itself off yet. We cranked the engine and the #8 intake valves are operating but they just aren't going to open as much.... The milky substance that was in the valve covers disappeared on its own... I'm guessing g it was co densities mixed in with the oil? Very strange but I have limited experience with motors so this is new to me. Still waiting on injectors to come back from the shop. The good thing is that they were able to order parts. Right now my plan is to put injectors in and run it and see how much better it is. I know there are other problems but I can't justify tearing into it any more.
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Thanks again everyone, I agree with what you guys are saying. I dropped the injectors off at a diesel shop, they reported back that ALL the injectors need rebuilt, they are hunting for parts now. (this is good news to me and not a surprise) The tappet was out of its hole and I was able to realign it with a long magnet and drop it back down on the cam. Sooooo now the plan is: -remove the front belly pan/skid plate (will probably involve a hot wrench, will have to elaborate on this later, short on time) -rotate engine and measure #6 intake pushrod travel and compare to others to verify cam lobe condition -if cam lobe is good, rotate to lowest point as mentioned above by hardtail, compress springs and reinstall rocker arm -adjust all valves per procedure -install reconditioned injectors -clean up as much sludge as possible, reassemble, cross fingers, start pushing dirt and send you fine gentlemen a new video This is a farm dozer now and correct, I don't want to sink much more money in it, my goal is to build one pond, maybe two, both on my land, clear a fence row for a neighbor, and then sell it to my friend who lives about 3 miles away, then another friend wants to buy it after he gets done with it lol I only have 45 acres, I can't justify keeping it around once my jobs are done.
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Pulled valve covers, findings: -Moisture present. Condensation droplets. Gray slimy sludge build up, especially on bottom side of valve covers. -#6 cylinder intake rocker arm off, slid to the side, all pieces appear to be intact and not broken, push rod is straight Do you all know what would cause a rocker arm to come off? I didn't think tolerances would even allow this. The adjustment bolt/nut was tight and appeared to be at the same position as the other intake valves. I don't believe I can even put this back together without pulling the entire rocker shaft, right?? There is a slight oily residue on top of the antifreeze coolant that's visible when you open the cap. I have all the injectors pulled.... not sure if I should invest the money in having them checked, hopefully someone can shed light on the rocker arm issue first. I appreciate all of the advice on this. If it requires pulling the head I'm going to have to really think hard before moving further on this project. Thanks again. Pictures attached: gray sludge, rocker arm slid over, coolant, valve cover after sitting a few hours, the condensation beaded up...
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Got it in the ship now, pulled some accessories panels, have oil leaking from the right side manifold connections and also from around the turbo connection. Turbo cold side looks good and does not have excessive play, spins freely, no sign of it making contact with housing. This could be a bad head gasket or valve guide, right? Allowing oil to leak into the combustion chamber and then into the exhaust?
