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JSCHMIDT

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  1. Sorry for the long delay, just got back to messing with this! So the new harness had nothing to do with losing my other functions when I plugged it in. They keyed ignition switch decided that it wanted to act up the very moment I was doing this harness! Unbelievably bad coincidence for me. I could still use a little help. When I put the AUTO function on and press down on the header height switch, the head lowers all the way down to the correct position. I would like to test out the function of it before hitting the field. Does the separator have to be engaged to have the auto function work or can I just turn on the switch for the header and try it out? At least on my machine, the header will not run if the separator is not running also. I just wondered if the auto header height would still function that way. Also, I put a new pot on the 1020 head. Instructions were not great. Does anyone have a picture handy of what that looks like installed properly? TIA
  2. The second picture is of the brand new harness I just had made. No wire connectors at all. It plugs in inside the compartment on the right hand side of the cab going to the computer and runs all the way to the header connection. I just cant figure out why my separator and feederhouse wont engage when I use the new harness. They both turn on fine when I plug the old harness back in to the computer. Side note, the old harness does not need to be connected to the head and both the separator and feederhouse will engage without issue.
  3. This is probably a "beating a dead horse" topic. I'm having wiring problems with the Auto Header height control on my early 1660 with a 1020 head. Third year with the machine and the auto control has never worked. I was committed to fixing it this year but I'm ready to bale out again! I put a brand new pot on it first, no improvement. I sent the computer to AG express, they tested it and said it works fine and suggested a wiring problem. The old harness (gray three pin) looked rough at both ends. Mouse central inside the panel on the right side of machine where all the wires are. I had Porch Electric make me a new harness. When I unplug the harness at the computer and plug in the new one, my separator and feederhouse will not come on. If I plug the old harness back in, they come on without issue. I see the ground wire on the feederhouse and suspect that's the problem? I don't understand or see where that ties into the three pin gray plug/ that I'm replacing. I'll be the first to admit my wiring skills are on par with a pre-schooler! I'll attach a few pics of what I'm looking at. It's obvious someone has done some tinkering previously. Any pointers are appreciated! Thanks in advance.
  4. I have the calipers at EBD Brake & Clutch being rebuilt right now. Just waiting to get them back. Mine has the hand brake on the floor. I added a sears air seat and they make a buddy seat that bolts to it that I want to add. I'm going to use an electric parking brake actuator and put the button for that on the dash to get rid of the hand linkage that's in my way. Should be pretty cool! I'll post some pictures when I get going on it.
  5. That's good to hear. I just didn't want to get into a situation ten years from now where I have a really nice tractor that I cannot use because one small part is not available. You are correct, I've found plenty of other things to spend money on for this thing!
  6. Definitely not a show tractor. I want it to look good and be extremely reliable. I'm a small farmer, work a regular full-time job so it is overkill on size. I've found because of my schedule (this is probably the same for everyone) I want tools that can get a lot done in a short amount of time and run well enough to not let me down when I need to go.
  7. Hello all, I'm working my way through making my 4386 into a "nice tractor". I bought it in December and it was pretty rough. I have big plans for it and plan to attempt everything on my own with the exception of engine, tranny, and differential internals. I'm no mechanic though so there will be a learning curve! I'm pulling the cab off in the fall for complete restoration. I thought that would be the time to do some other things because of the access. I found a shop that said they can go through the transmission and dropbox although I'm not completely committed to them doing it. They are 750 miles away from me and I would be shipping it. It's a Fuller RT-4510 and I'm open to suggestions on a shop closer to OH/IN/KY. My other concern is running into parts availability in the future. I want to eventually have the differentials gone through. My model is an early serial number with the brakes mounted on the back of the front differential if that matters. Does anyone know the common wear items inside of these differentials? Is it the bull pinion gear? Is there other common wear parts? I would like to start gathering the parts, if I can, for the future rebuild before there are none to be gathered. If I run into a "no longer available" situation for a gear or something, are there shops to have a "one-off" made if I'm willing to throw the $$ at it? Thanks in advance!
  8. I didn’t find any parts available. I mailed the calipers to a shop, EB Clutch & Brake in Edmonton, Canada. It sounds like they have an inventory of discontinued parts and the ability to fabricate anything they don’t have. I just mailed them and have no idea what my bill will be yet!
  9. Hello all, The brakes on my early serial number 4386 were essentially non-functional and I’ve read on a forum here that parts for them are almost non-existent. I was excited to find a place in Canada, EBD Clutch & Brake, that is familiar with them and has all the parts to rebuild the calipers. I pulled the calipers yesterday and decided to take the rotor off as well and have a new one made locally. It is supposed to be .5 inches in thickness and mine is down to .3 inches. Here’s my question, the brakes always seem to be getting oil on them and I could never figure out where it was coming from. When I disconnected the driveline quite a bit of clean looking hydraulic oil came out from between the driveline and the differential. I believe that area should be dry. Can anyone tell me what is behind the two bolts in the center of that round, bright red plate? It’s the two with the locking plate bent over them. I’m hoping there is just a seal there that I can pull and replace to stop the leak. Am I on the right track? Thanks!
  10. I just purchased a 4386 (early S/N) as well and I'm chasing down some of the same problems. My digital tach and speedometer do work, although the previous owner has a toggle switch supplying power to it. My biggest concern is neither the oil pressure gauge nor oil pressure warning light are functioning. I feel like that is too critical to operate the tractor without those working. I ordered both of the sensors. The pressure sending unit was marked "no longer available" but Messicks subbed it to a new part number 1341329C1. I thought that would be a good place to start and matches my style of throw some new parts at it and see what happens! My question, for now, is where are the DT466 should I be looking for these? I see what I thought was at least on of them somewhat behind the oil filters but that has multiple wires going to it and my new sensors both only have one electrical connection. On a positive note, my 3 year old thinks the tractor is a fantastic jungle gym, when it's not moving of course!
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