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JSCHMIDT

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  1. I went ahead and put everything back together that made sense without my new wiring harnesses. Everything works except the lights and A/C. I had my 14 year old help me with the duals, snapped some pictures and hit the field. I was able to get 80 acres worked with a 26ft IH 496 and it was awesome. Tractor ran like a top. I found a small leak at the input for the rear diff but not bad. Other than that everything was dry. That was a relief because I had this thing tore apart and it was my first time doing anything close to this.
  2. Project is moving along. I've been waiting on new wire harnesses forever and postponed some parts of the project to make those easier to install. I was tired of waiting and moved along anyway. I set the cab back on which was not much fun. Holding something that weighs over a ton 12 feet in the air and lining up bolt holes was interesting. I spent the better part of the next day hooking everything back up. I ran all new heater hoses, A/C lines, fuel lines, and several hydraulic hoses. I was excited to see if it would start! That was my first time removing/reinstalling an injection pump and I know the timing is critical so I was nervous. Here it is:
  3. I had a perfect 70 degree day off work and got some paint work done on the main frame. I sprayed it with a 2 part epoxy primer from Eastwood and 2 coats of IH Red Rust Oleum. I'm real happy with how it looks. I shipped the injection pump off to Central Diesel Injection in KY. They received it yesterday and were impressed with my choice of shipping containers. I used a 5 gallon home depot bucket and stuffed the open space with old t-shirts. I thought that would be more durable than a cardboard box and a lot easier to handle (I left the handle attached). My luck has not been as good with the hydraulic stack. I bought (4) of the valve rebuild kits for over $1000 only to have my local hydraulic shop tell me I'd be way ahead to replace each valve, that the inside of them were terrible. I stumbled onto Anderson Tractor parts website and found refurbished valves for about $400 each and bought those. Hopefully I can return the parts I already bought.
  4. Thanks for the all the tips. I was able to remove the cover on the front side and find the pointer and mark. Also, once I had the area better lit I found the mark on the crank pulley as well. This was my first time pulling a pump. I pulled it out with the gear still attached to the pump. Is that something I will regret? On another note, I really dislike the way the door prop system works. Mine sticks and rattles all the time. I bought a replacement door strut from Shoup (part number SH28263) for a different IH tractor to see if I could make it work here without too much modification. It bolted right into the existing holes with zero modification. The door doesn't quite open to 90 degrees but it's good enough for me!
  5. I pulled the only plug I saw, it was a hex head so I'm not sure if that was the correct one. I cranked my neck in every imaginable direction trying to see any kind of pointer inside to no avail. I can only see a few gear splines. Am I looking in the correct place?
  6. Hi guys, My 4386 refresh is moving along (slowly). I have the cab stripped and painted now and have been bouncing back and forth trying to do anything mechanical it needs while everything is so easy to reach. I pulled the valve stack and found a local that will install the (4) valve rebuild kits I bought cheap enough that I did not try my hand at it. I have a local welding shop replacing all 4 steering cylinder ball sockets. I bought Cat 2 hitch replacements for about $20 apiece and they look like they will work out nicely. I have a very leaky injection pump that needs attention as well. I tried tightening all the lines, hoping to get lucky and it made no difference. The consensus seems to be a reman replacement is the best move. I've read where the engine needs to be at 18 degrees before removal. I watched a video that showed an inspection plate on the bell housing of another model IH tractor with a 466 but I don't see that on mine. Where do I look to set the timing correctly before I pull this old pump? TIA
  7. The picture (with the snow on it) of the donor tractor looks to me like a later serial number that has the hydraulic brakes. It still used the same disc and parking brake assembly as the early serial numbers and that's what I believe is in the picture, just the parking brake.
  8. I think I've cornered the market on IH 4386's in my area, lol. Bought one, thought it was cool so I started keeping an eye on them just for fun. Couldn't help myself on two others when they sold somewhat locally for borderline scrap money. I plan to make two very nice ones out of the bunch and have the third for parts. I did some work to the first one last year, nothing major and used it without issue. The third one is mechanically very good, but cosmetically terrible! I needed a winter project (like a needed a hole in my head) so I yanked the cab the other day and started gutting it. I'm going to use this post as my template! I could use some help already with two things. I ordered a cab kit, floormat, and window seals (for the windows that open) from Fehr. They did not have the seals for the other windows however (the ones that don't open). I want to make sure I use the correct seal. J-Mech, can you tell me where you got yours? I see they are new in the pics. Also, should I attempt to put these back in myself or pay a pro? I watched some videos on YouTube and it doesn't look terrible. Also, the hydraulic valve stack is a leaking mess. I would prefer to send it to someone other than my local hydraulic shop. They are good at making a hydraulic line, and that's about it! I thought this would be a good time to get that done as well. Any good recommendations on where to send/take it? I'm in the Cincinnati area.
  9. That is actually the old rotor. I stopped at a couple machine shops and they had no interest so I just cleaned that one up and put it back. It really feels like it's in the driveline but who knows. I'm just glad it stops now when I hit the brakes.
  10. Put the tractor back together yesterday. I was anxious to get it out of the barn after sitting in the same spot for 3 months. While I waited on the brakes I replaced all of the u-joints and the master cylinder. The parking brake works great now and the new calipers have plenty of stopping power. Unfortunately the tractor has a heck of a vibration when I brake. If it were a car I would compare it to severely warped rotors but I feel like this is more in the driveline since that is what this system is actually braking. Any tips on how to diagnose the problem or is that just the nature of the beast?
  11. Well it took three months for an update but here you go! I finally got my calipers back and they look almost as good as new. Completely rebuilt including the not available anywhere pistons. It took much longer than I anticipated and was about double the money that I expected. I attached a copy of my receipt with the shops info on it. The receipt is in Canadian dollars, it was about $2200 USD. I guess nothing is cheap anymore and brakes are important, so oh well. At this point it seems like money well spent.... My receipt also has new pads and hardware kit for the parking brake assembly.
  12. Sorry for the long delay, just got back to messing with this! So the new harness had nothing to do with losing my other functions when I plugged it in. They keyed ignition switch decided that it wanted to act up the very moment I was doing this harness! Unbelievably bad coincidence for me. I could still use a little help. When I put the AUTO function on and press down on the header height switch, the head lowers all the way down to the correct position. I would like to test out the function of it before hitting the field. Does the separator have to be engaged to have the auto function work or can I just turn on the switch for the header and try it out? At least on my machine, the header will not run if the separator is not running also. I just wondered if the auto header height would still function that way. Also, I put a new pot on the 1020 head. Instructions were not great. Does anyone have a picture handy of what that looks like installed properly? TIA
  13. The second picture is of the brand new harness I just had made. No wire connectors at all. It plugs in inside the compartment on the right hand side of the cab going to the computer and runs all the way to the header connection. I just cant figure out why my separator and feederhouse wont engage when I use the new harness. They both turn on fine when I plug the old harness back in to the computer. Side note, the old harness does not need to be connected to the head and both the separator and feederhouse will engage without issue.
  14. This is probably a "beating a dead horse" topic. I'm having wiring problems with the Auto Header height control on my early 1660 with a 1020 head. Third year with the machine and the auto control has never worked. I was committed to fixing it this year but I'm ready to bale out again! I put a brand new pot on it first, no improvement. I sent the computer to AG express, they tested it and said it works fine and suggested a wiring problem. The old harness (gray three pin) looked rough at both ends. Mouse central inside the panel on the right side of machine where all the wires are. I had Porch Electric make me a new harness. When I unplug the harness at the computer and plug in the new one, my separator and feederhouse will not come on. If I plug the old harness back in, they come on without issue. I see the ground wire on the feederhouse and suspect that's the problem? I don't understand or see where that ties into the three pin gray plug/ that I'm replacing. I'll be the first to admit my wiring skills are on par with a pre-schooler! I'll attach a few pics of what I'm looking at. It's obvious someone has done some tinkering previously. Any pointers are appreciated! Thanks in advance.
  15. I have the calipers at EBD Brake & Clutch being rebuilt right now. Just waiting to get them back. Mine has the hand brake on the floor. I added a sears air seat and they make a buddy seat that bolts to it that I want to add. I'm going to use an electric parking brake actuator and put the button for that on the dash to get rid of the hand linkage that's in my way. Should be pretty cool! I'll post some pictures when I get going on it.
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