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  1. IHKIWI, while waiting on other suggestions I went ahead and checked the relief valve #27 you mentioned and all was well. O -ring was good ,spring was not broken and pressed it down and there was not anything in the seating area.
  2. The only concern I have with the hydraulic techs opinion was that he stated that the signal pressure was generated by the charge pump. Looking at the schematic that I downloaded the charge pump flow goes to the spin on filter housing, thru filter ,then to main pump. Discharge from the main pump then goes to the priority valve and that is where the dashed lines indicating signal originate ,going to the steering, hitch and rear remotes.
  3. Took the pump to the local hydraulic shop and told him what I was seeing and he said he has seen this countless times and that the problem was related to the low pressures in the charge pump. He didnt have the capability to bench test but was confidant it was related to charge pump.
  4. I dont have a picture but the tags says it is a remanufactured with part number F199142A4R
  5. I think I ,have checked everything that I think could be a problem ,would it be stupid to take the pump to a local hydraulic shop to bench test to make sure the internal pump controls are working? Not sure what they typically charge for testing.
  6. Earlier on I could get hydraulics back while cranking the engine while hold the remote levers ,but that has quit working. Gearclash called it cheating the system to get pressure. I am very new to hydraulic circuits but was wondering if I could be having an issue in the steering priority spool. It looks to me that is the point of origin for the signal circuit but again i am week with hydraulics.
  7. Need help understanding the control circuit for the swash plate in the PFC pump. I understand that the plate angle controls pressure. Does an increase in SL pressure result in increased PFC output or a decrease? Having trouble getting my hands how the componets in the pump control block
  8. Blocked off the signal lines one at a time as suggested by CIHTECH and still have nothing.
  9. Any idea on the thread size needed for the caps ? I am about 45 minutes one way to town.
  10. The part listed as reference # 2 is still in place as is the snap ring.
  11. OK Thanks I will check tomorrow.
  12. Drained the fluid and checked the main suction screen and it was clean as a new one. Have not cut the spin on filter open because the previous owner changed it as soon as the problem started and it made no difference. Has only about 2 hours on it. CIHTECH, the by-pass valve you are referring to is it behind the filter housing and screwed into the transmission housing?
  13. Bought one used from a school that used it to run a plugger over the ball fields. It only had low range and reverse on the range lever and 1&2 on the speed lever. Took lots of penetrating oil and patience to get them freed up .
  14. Put the gauge on top of filter as suggested by CIHTECH... reading at 1000 RPM cold was 22PSI Waited on oil temp to come up and 1000RPM pressure dropped to 12 and 2200 RPM was down to 24 I understand from the test procedure PSI's I got when hot are low ,but should I not have had enough pressure when cold at 22 to provide enough for power steering until the oil heated up and pressure fell ?
  15. Ok here we go. I do not have the gauges yet to check pressure on top of filter housing as suggested by CIHTECH . tractor was still on the gooseneck trailer with loader sitting all the way down. Loader is operated from the rear remotes instead of joystick .Started the engine a half dozen time and still had no hydraulic power.. Then I pulled all three levers for the rear remotes and cranked the engine and all hydraulics including steering work as they should. Get it off the trailer and driving it around and checking it out and powershift works as it should. While checking it out it the total los
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