Jump to content

Hy1066

Members
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Hy1066's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)

28

Reputation

  1. Keep us posted if it does increase. Humidity, barometric pressure and air temperatures will have a big effect on comparing pulls from a year before to the next. Engine oil and coolant temperatures have a huge effect on engine builders comparing changes when they are chasing gains. You want the oil hot and the coolant cold for best performance.
  2. When you are rebuilding an engine if there is a specification it needs measured. Double check everything and don't think any manufactured parts are correct to size. In this rebuild there were a few rings that would have destroyed this rebuild. Cylinder four most likely would not have been to tight but I wanted more clearance. This block could be a little tighter but within spec and squeezed the liners smaller than expected. This could be the cause for a few rings being to tight. Maybe while assembling the kit some rings got swapped at the factory. I hope this helps someone else. Thank you all for going along on this journey.
  3. Pittsburgh, Pa. I'll bet it is fun to have one run on the dyno.
  4. I wish I had a dyno! I can't justify having one but would be nice.
  5. During first fire there was a couple leaks at the injector pump. I use the copper washers at these banjo bolts. They always leak until i mess with them several times. I sand the top and bottom of the lines fittings with 400 grit very lightly. Try them again and then finally i apply red loctite to both sides of the washers torque the lines and let them sit for 24 hours. It is 28 degree here. This video is it cold starting after we have run this just under 50 hours this year since rebuild. [
  6. [ ] Head torqued, exhaust on, pump in, I spun this to prime the oil and fuel. Installed the injectors and spun it again to check fuel to each. This is the first fire!
  7. All 6 pistons and rings in. We were waiting on the cylinder head to get done at the machine shop. This took an extra month. I dropped this off at the beginning of the rebuild and told them I wasn't in a hurry. At this point its now February and I'm getting closer to needing this together. I also this past year had the injection pump rebuilt for our 1066. Same story I dropped it off before Halloween and it's now getting close to needing that together. Some lessons are hard to learn. Don't give anyone an accurate impression of your expectations. We got them both back in time and back together.
  8. Sorry here is the installation tool, little mind with to much on it. I covered it in grease to store it. I keep it in a zip lock bag. I plan if needed to cut the D/DT361 engine spec groove it the opposite side. redrunrite.com sells Sleeve Installation Puck, IH D361, DT361, D407, DT407 $285.00 if anyone needs a source.
  9. I had a machinist family friend make me this installation tool. This is cut with a groove the liner size and correct depth to get the protrusion needed for head gasket sealing. Press each liner down till the tool is pressed against the top of the block. I placed each liner in the freezer. I pressed the liners in until they were about a 1/4 inch from the top of the block. I then let everything sit over night so the block and liners became the same temp. Then the next day I had a gauge on the pota power and checked setting pressure of the liners. All six were well withing seating pressures for installing the liners so good to go. This is a reliance kit, there are varying opinions on their parts. I again checked bores with my bore gauge. There was less than a thousands variation when these liners are installed. The block was a little more than that. I believe after time The liners will shift a little and conform to the block, but I could be wrong. I'm never going to take this apart to double check this assumption. I remove all the rings and check clearance in the cylinders. I used an old piston to set the depth and check at the top on the cylinders. I found 6 were to tight. % rings may have gotten away with running as they were just on the tighter side of spec. One ring would have caused problems. Cylinder 4 seams to be a little tighter than expected. I stopped working the rings and check the pistons. Again I find cylinder 4 is in spec but tighter than the other 5. Check clearance with a feeler gauge at top and bottom with no rings on the piston. After removing I also decided to check ring groove clearance. Everything checks. I have a hone and open cylinder 4 the thousand and half I want. I was shooting for 2 but made sure to put in the cross hatch before getting there. Then talking with my brother shooting for that accuracy on this cylinder was not worth it if i wasn't going to shoot for it on all six. I have several hours in this and after a couple nights sleep feel pretty good about the measurements in all the cylinders.
  10. Now measure each bore to double check they are in spec, Measure at the top parallel and perpendicular to engine middle and bottom. I also used plastigauge on the mains to check bearing clearance. I used a ball hone to clean out the bores. I simple up and down while spinning slowly. I just wanted to scratch off any corrosion that developed between the old liners and block walls but not change the bore size hardly at all. All of these cylinders were well within spec and all were within a thousands of being round. I expected this as we got away with a rebuild years before and this engine ran with nothing wrong that whole time.
  11. While I had the main bearings out I take a small wire and run through the oil squirters. I also reinstall the oil pan with the old gasket, plug off the turbo feed at the oil filter and the feed line to the head. Fill the engine with oil and then spin the engine with the starter and check that all the oil squirts flow oil. When doing this you won't get oil squirting out of them. As there is no rod bearings in there is not enough resistance to flow to build pressure.
  12. In the picture with the liner you can see the machined cap to fit the bottom of the liner is cut with a flat side. This is cut on both sides and allows me to slide the cap down through the liner and get it turned above the crankshaft so I can do this rebuild in frame. I will also roll in new bearings into the block while the crank is still installed. I cut an old main bearing and sanded it a little thinker. This allows me to use it to push the old bearings out. I also cut a rod that fits into the oil hole in the crank and can use it to roll the bearings into position. I roll in the 5 center mains with the front main and rear main only loose about a turn and half on the bolts. I do this to not allow the crank to settle on the seals. I do not know if this is necessary or not. Then pull #2 and #6 main up loosen them a turn and a half and roll in #1 and #7. Then torque the mains.
  13. Pan off, pistons out, pulling liners. I use a puller but have a port-a-power on one side. Ideally I'd have a longer cylinder on both sides but I don't have those available.- So I go about an inch up and readjust the threaded rod. This is faster than turning the nut by hand. More importantly it is less effort. It takes about 25 minutes to pull a liner.
  14. I told some of the back story to this but forgot to get to the point. The rebuild in the 90s we were lucky. I was born in the early 80s. I didn't really participate but mostly spectated and got in the way. We didn't have the block cut or a machine shop install the liners. This tractor did all of the hay chopping for a 48 stall dairy farm in south western pa until my father retired in 2014. It did most of the plowing until the end of the century. The block hasn't been cut and the crankshaft takes standard bearings.
  15. Last winter I rebuilt the engine in our 1456. We have owned this tractor since the late 80s. Dad rebuilt the engine in this tractor in the early 90s. We don't know if we are the second owner or more. My father won this tractor at an auction when he was the only bidder. It ran fine when we brought it home. The engine got rebuilt the first time prematurely. The idler gear bolt broke and the Injector pump would jump in and out of time when running. This wasn't discovered till after rebuild and not being able to get it to run. This time the seal on the turbo went. While running it we started loosing power. Compression test was low but more important varying from cylinder to cylinder. I had 190 psi in cylinder 6 and 105 in cylinder 1. So after removing the cylinder head this is what I found. I'm going to post to this a little at a time. I'm going to show some things I feel are important. I know there are many things I leave out or I accept as you would know. I also know this isn't the only or most correct way to do this. Just sharing my journey and hoping something here may help another.
×
×
  • Create New...