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N S

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Everything posted by N S

  1. No matter which way you choose, or who tells you, it always goes the other way! NO NOI the other other way..... now turn it around the other way. Either way you'll be 50% right or 50% wrong.
  2. I would guess that the name "HY Tran" is controlled by CaseIH (CNH) or the company that makes the oil for them. But as the orange jug states, it's "HYTRAN" could very well be legit, whether or not its the same oil, as its spelled without the space between Hy and Tran. Unless specifically stated in a trademark or patent filing, spelling is sometimes all thats needed to get around a trademark or patent. Patents and trademarks are real finicky and convoluted in their makeup as there are so many ways to encroach on them or get around them. There are many many brands of oil out there by all the major brands of equip mfgs. that state their oil is "Compatible" with Hy Tran. But according to any of the major Mfgs. the oil they recommend is the only one to use cause the others don't meet "their" formulation requirements. It's to keep you reliant on the recommended oil and keep you buying it from the dealer. Once again for the correct answer in all things. Follow the money!
  3. Here ya are, found the answer to ur crappy brakes.
  4. Sounds like Maynard has a good handle on it. and many others are on the track as well. Most (I'm aware of ) suction pumps are gear and gears do wear over time even when immersed in oil, but it would take many multiple thousands of hrs of wear. Could possibly be the seal between the gears and housing or a crack in the pickup tube. leak where the pickup tube is pressed into the housing. If you already got the oil drained, the messy part is already done eh! Next comes the fun part requiring 17 fingers and 3 hands all attached to limbs that bend in 7 directions, 5 floor jacks, 4 chain hoists, and 2 com-alongs. Plus a truckload of cribbage, (wood not the game) and support timbers & stands. Just scatter the parts about the floor, the janitor'll sweep it all up when you finally give up and give it away for scrap. PS: You could always just trade it in on one of the fancy new ones that you can't fix anyway, and when anything goes wrong just trade it on for another new one. Hey, it's the American way, the way modern merka does it.
  5. From what little I member in the owners manual the light would come on and then off indicating the brakes were worn. Do a quick circuit test with a voltmeter to see if the light is working and circuit is functioning, bulb could even be burnt out. Ifn it's got lots of hrs brakes could be worn to the replacement point. If I remember right they are multiple disc wet brakes. As you are undoubtedly aware they are located on the outboard side in front of the axle housing so are relatively easy access, if you like working on your knees under the cab. But from the schematic don't appear to be overly complicated to replace, everything considered. As with everything these days, more time consuming than anything built during the 40's & 50's. Good luck! PS. most orfice holders reside in the district of cartoonistan and various sate crapi - trolls..
  6. N S

    1086 radio

    Special Nuts! Hey, you guys talkin bout me again!
  7. I was always under the impression that cubs, being the younger, or offspring, of the parent, always ran rough under load. Simply cause they ain't all crowded up yet and can't carry as much. Bwaaahaaahhha
  8. Ya can tell its a Merkan version and not one of the Canadian versions, otherwise it'd hafta say FARMALL EH, eh ! 😀 Somewhat like the song down here called "Take The A Train". In Canada they sing it "Take the Train Eh!"
  9. Don't know what it is about it all but I absolutely love to view, and see in real life, Rural, Farming, and Ranching landscapes with equipment out in the fields working, regardless of the country they are in. It's a plus if the landscapes are filled with "Red" machinery. Quite simply put, it brings peace to the soul. Many moons ago when I first left Uncle Sams Misguided Children employment, one of my first jobs was in a feed & grain supply. The smells and sounds where what enthralled me, and I'm still partial to the smells of feeds and grains. Can't quite seem to outgrow it, not that I really want to.
  10. In my neck of the woods, a 30 pack goes for about $22 bucks. That equals out to just over 363 30 packs. Which, all in all equals out to a lot more fun than $8000 spent on aggravating pulling and all the breakdowns and pitfalls that go with it. Plus you can always go to the pulling contest and whilst laughing at everyone else get aggravated at breaking down and throwing more coin after more coin whilst pulling their puds. Now I'm waiting for some creative screwball to name their pulling sled the "PUD" as in pulling their pud. I'll give it about 6 months before it catches on.
  11. Red on one side & green on ta-other. Poor old girl don't know whether it's a-comin or a-goin. Old tractors are like us old geezers, we could all use a bit of Savin. Paintin it green don't make it better, just makes it green. If it was born Red its heart still gonna to pump Red.
  12. Man I can really relate to that. It seems as though corporations will hire only college grads no matter what they majored in or got their degree in as opposed to those that earned their stripes by actually getting hands on experience. A number of years ago I was applying for semi driving jobs cause that was all that seemed to be available at the time. They all wanted someone that had graduated from a "driving school" even though I had 30 years of experience driving every conceivable combination known and well over 3 million miles. The excuse was that I had not driven steadily for about 4-5 years. What they were saying is that they didn't want someone with experience like your dad, who actually had experience making things work, but someone they could train to their corporate dictates. Somewhat like if you sit down for an hour you'll forget how to walk. Thats their mentality. And closer and closer to the drain hole we go.
  13. I have just done some cursory pricing in various places on various tires and what I found was Michelins were more spensive. Prices were generally all over the place with Firestones being the most consistent. I'm going to be in the market in the near future so the info you related about tread angles is appreciated as most all of my tillable acreage is somewhat steep. Ultimately the winner will be whoever can provide the best tire at the most reasonable cost available in the size I need (18.4 X 38), whether it be Firestone, Carlisle, Goodyear. Michelin, Alliance or Titan. Not all of which have that size available in the desired tread style. I have mower research to do me thinks.
  14. From what I understand, Harvey Firestone was the first to come up with the "tire" for farm tractors, being a farmer himself. As things progressed other brands cashed in on the opportunity, mostly cause of the bottom line it created for their shareholders and the market share obtained. No I believe I've read that Titan Tires is the owner of the Goodyear AG tire division. Somewhere I've read that Alliance now owns Titan, or maybe it's the other way around, can't member. At any rate, after developing his tire, Harvey Firestone returned to farming but kept his hand in the development of tires and Firestone does have a research facility specifically for AG tires. Guess the point of this diatribe drivel is that I don't believe you can go wrong with a set of Firestones. Probably a premier tire at a somewhat affordable price. Same tire in Michelin will run you 2 - 3 times as much, and it ain't any rounder. The composition of the rubber is what will ultimately determine the reliability and wear. But y'all knew that.
  15. Also on this tractor, you can see some of the red paint is wearing off the front axle, exposing the green primer that came on that front axle when it came from one of Deere’s foundries to Farmall. This one is used mainly as a haying tractor so it’s probably been through a lot of tall grass through the years. That doesn't look like Green from a Deere mfg or dealer/supplier. I'm guessing it's the primer used on aircraft aluminum and often on steel as well called Zinc Chromate.
  16. A little of the mark but still in the baliwick of Navistar info, as its an offshoot of IH, maybe someone, or a few of you, more well endowed with intelligence than I am, can enlighten me on this little tidbit. Lately I have seen adds for "Farmall". New tractors, and they are red, looking like CaseIH products and sponsored by CaseIH. Me thinks CaseNHI or whatever it's called now, may be resurrection the Formal name & brand. Anyone have any insider info on this?
  17. And now you know the importance of running coolant & electrolysis filters in the cooling system. But it is a 1958 version after all, thats 63 years old and they are probably tired and need replacing anyway. Ifn ya like the tractor and want to keep it around, whilst it's at the fixer up shop, ifn ya got the jingle, do a rebuild & save later headaches.
  18. Thanks all on the update of synchros in newer stuff. I'm very much "old school", preferring the simplicity of the engineering to the modern complexity with the addition of stuff to go wrong in multiples instead of singles. Sometimes I think I'm more suited to the steam era instead of the more modern era. Although the steam driven had their own system of complexities. And yes, the advent of hydraulic driven everything has made gear shifting sort of a moot point. Appreciate everyones input.
  19. I may be wrong here and someone more well versed in it than I please correct me if I am wrong. But I am under the impression that unlike manual truck & car transmissions, tractors are not specific built with synchros in the trannys as they are built primarily for pulling in one gear and not meant to "shift on the fly". Hence the grinding when shifting. Really old manual truck trannys were also built without the synchros, thus required matching eng. speed with gear speed. It would make it easier if all were equipped with foot throttles, but few of them (especially older tractors) are. And since tractors are geared towards the slow end for their pulling prowess, chances are you may be slowed down so much between gear changes you need to start in the lower gear all over again. So there is another way of looking at it all. I generally start out in the gear I figure I'll need or want and stay there no matter how fast it is even if I could go faster. But where I'm at it's either uphill or downhill, no such thing as level or flat. But then I'm sorta just haffast anyway....
  20. N S

    Question

    All diesel eng. feed excess fuel thru the injector pump and thru the injectors. It helps them run cooler enhancing longevity, and due to the nature of diesel, is used as a lubricant. Most pumps (but not all) return excess fuel from the pump to the secondary filter as well as returning excess fuel from the injectors to the secondary filter or directly to the fuel tank. You should only need to bleed injectors, injector pump, or filters if you run it out of fuel. And then not always, depending upon severity of running things dry, or out of fuel. Always fill filters as full as possible when changing and it helps, if you can, fill any replaced line with fuel. It helps keep air out of the system. Depending upon the size of the line replaced, it may take more effort to fill it than it's worth though. I use a squirt gun. And a small amount of air is sort of a minor tick that won't even be noticed.
  21. N S

    Help please

    What others have said, do the simple first. From the pic it appears it's either the ferule/flare on the end of the pipe or an o-ring/gasket on the fitting. Have had flared fittings fail and no amount of tightening will prevent a leak.
  22. At least he's got a thought process. Mine usually entails throwing everything in a jar, shaking it up and seeing what rolls out, thats if it's working at all, most always it's what they said about my thought process in school "absent".
  23. Eyem jealous, ya got a nice lighted shop to monkey about in.
  24. Start with the ground cable, then positive cable both ends, both cables. Had an El Camino once that had good batt, started well, shut it off to get mail, went back out and zilch, nada, squat, bupkis. Tow truck showed up for a jump, zip, nada, squat, wouldn't even click. I showed up the next am with a new batt and same, zilch squat, zip & bupkis, not necessarily in that order. Both cable ends were clean and good connections. Issue turned out to be the ground cable, although not swollen up and no broken insulation, the cable was so corroded on the inside through its entire length, juice simply would not pass through it. Corrosion on the inside is so easy to miss simply because you can't see it and is so slow to accumulate. Electricity is evil !!! To top it all off, and make things interesting you could have a faulty batt as well, one with a faulty cell. It has happened before. Like the 2 spark plugs I got straight outta da parts store. Brand new and both were bad, the next two were faulty as well, 3rd set finally worked. Well scratch my backside, imagine that !!! Ifn that fails you're gonna be looking into the starter & solenoid. Kinda like us old geezers, everything wears out.
  25. I recall somewhere hen I read through the owners manual something about being properly adjusted linkage Could be something didn't get tight enough and worked itself loose. Other than that, like snowshoe says, could be the spring pressure/broken spring on the detent ball. It's a place to start.
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