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Perfect-Reject

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  1. I checked the manuals and it goes through a troubleshooting step by step. It starts with cylinders, if that doesn't fix it, go to the control valve, if that doesn't fix it, go to the hand pump.
  2. 1967 Case 580CK. My steering pretty much wanders where it wants. When traveling straight, I have to keep cranking the wheel to the left in order to keep going straight. I'm aware that there's no mechanical linkage like a steering column and that it's all hydraulic. When you turn the wheel on this thing I guess you're actually turning a reversible pump. I'm thinking the packing on one or both cylinders is shot but I don't really know. Could it just be low on fluid? This is all new to me. Can anyone point me the right way? Thank you.
  3. Brother this thing needs a complete going over. If it can be loose or leaking, it probably is. I'm slowly getting on it. I figure Case didn't put anything on there without good reason though. If they wanted a chain there must be good reason.
  4. Ok, that's another thing. As I travel I have to reach back with one hand and swing the boom back to center. That would be really handy to not have to mess with it. Was the boom meant to rest on the chains? I called one CASE dealer and the best guess he can offer me is grade 70 5/16" chain. I found a drawing of it in the parts catalog but it doesn't give details about what the chain actually is. So maybe not a ratchet, but an over center style binder to really tighten it up? I'm on the side of a mountain and taking off uphill with no load in the bucket is pretty nervy... I'd like to suck the bo
  5. This had some sort of chain setup at one time going from one stabilizer to the underside of the boom and then to the other stabilizer. One of the hookups is torn off the stabilizer. I want to get a lock back on it. I'm wondering what size and grade of chain to use, and should I put on a ratcheting chain binder?
  6. I talked to Chris at Broken Tractor. He's run into this before. I had to pull the pump apart and rotate the rear part with the ports 180 degrees. All better.
  7. I'm in the home stretch replacing my hydraulic pump. My lines don't make sense so I rotate the pump 180 degrees and bolt it down. I get my return line on but my steel pressure line is a couple inches off. I took a good look at both pumps. On my old one it's "OUT" and "IN". New one is "PRESSURE" and "TANK". I might be losing my mind but for all I can see, the pressure and returns are swapped side to side. I got this pump from Broken Tractor but I'm figuring all sorts of retailers sell the same thing. Anyone else run into this? I'm figuring to get a piece of flex line made up and hopefully get b
  8. I was thinking to drill and pin it as well but **** if the weld breaks, the pin won't be worth much. I'd hate to throw something out of balance and spin a main bearing so I'm hesitant. That pump shaft isn't going to hold up much longer anyways.I already ordered the stuff. I don't want to worry about it again. I have the money to do it right now. I might not later and if I bodge fix it, it'll run until something breaks. Who knows when that is. I want to do it right. If I had to, I'd probably try it. Might even tack the coupler to the pump. $565 is cheap piece of mind and I'll have a wicked hy
  9. It's the exact same spline pattern on the other end. That's why I was thinking it's possible to flip both of them around and weld them together. I don't know what would happen though. Main thing, it might work but the end of the pump is roughed up. I might get another 3 hours going very gently before it strips again.
  10. I was digging out a red oak stump today. I thought I was going easy but the crank-hydro pump coupler thought otherwise. *POP GRRRRRRRRRRRRR* and no more hydraulics. I'm attaching pics and you can see the internal splines are gone in the sleeve part of the coupler. The externally splined part is looking haggard as well on the crankshaft end. I was thinking I could get back to work by swapping the ends around so the chewed up parts are engaged and welding it together. I'd then have fresh splines going into the crankshaft and going to the pump. The shaft on the pump isn't looking so hot though an
  11. I feel like a real idiot here... I don't know what kind of tires to get for the front of my machine. It's a 1967 Case 580CK. Right now it has some kind of pickup truck tires, I think, and they're dry rotten to heck. If I pick any kind of proper load with the front bucket they just about squash flat. I'm using it on a hard packed dirt road and in the dirt. If it ever sees asphalt, that would be a very rare thing. I'm hoping I can get something half decent for $300 or less but I'm not holding my breath. I think I found some that will do but I don't want to order them and get the wrong stuff. htt
  12. I went to Fastenall to get bolts for the upper support arms on my backhoe. First they gave me completely the wrong item. The second time they looked good but on getting home I found that the ones Fastenall gave me are grade 8. The original bolts have no head markings. I can't seem to find out what grade the originals are but I'd like to run what it came with if possible. I got this machine for me to dig some holes, not to make hours and club the thing to death. I'm thinking at this point to just run the grade 8 bolts but I'm hearing they'll snap before they bend, or at least snap quicker. I wa
  13. I got a couple of videos as I'm digging in to this machine. I'm not very interested in camera work or editing, but it gets the point across. Hopefully someone can get something out of this but mainly I'd like to know more on what you guys would do. I already have a plan in motion to repair it but I'm not so far along that I can't stop if I'm really screwing up. In a nutshell, the big bolts on the forward ends of the upper support arms came loose and beat the holes and the bolts up. Someone torqued the bolts down, welded the support arms to the inner frame, welded the bolts and nuts to the fram
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