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dirtwrangler

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About dirtwrangler

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  1. I finally wised up and converted to a Delco 10SI internally regulated alternator. There are tons of resources online about how to wire a tractor for this system that I finally decided to eliminate the external voltage regulator. Glad I did because I’m finally back to charging at 14.6 volts and have working dash lights, warning lights, headlights and ammeter. Now that the tractor is running and charging as it should I took it out to do some bush hog mowing to test out its capabilities. It was excellent while running the mower as the hydro trans makes it great for working around tight spots.
  2. So my curiosity or paranoia got the better of me and I tore the fine down again over the weekend to diagnose what the sound was. Everyone who said it’s just piston slap was correct. I couldn’t find any bearings, wrist pins, etc. that were suspect. So I put it back together and I’m moving on to the electrical. As with most tractors there are lots of previous wiring fixes that need to be sorted out. Specifically I have a question about the external regulator.... when the key is off... Should there be 12v in only the #3 wire on the external regulator harness?
  3. My recently replaced radiator was from Northern Radiator, and it seems to be a good quality replacement. I think it has the same number of cores, and dimensions as the OEM radiator.
  4. When I pulled the screw out... I only removed the #4 piston as it was the one with the obvious damage. Perhaps I should have pulled and inspected all of them when I had it apart. I guess I was trying to avoid messing with any more stuff than was necessary, but since I had already checked the rod bearings on each piston it would not have been that big of an issue to pull and check the pistons. 20/20 hindsight. Sounds like i'm going to have to go take 5 steps back, after finally taking some steps forward.
  5. Balancer drive gear is still in place but the balancer has long ago been removed. I have wondered about the effects of not having the balancer though. When I plastigaged the front main bearing it was within tolerance but it did have a noticeable wear mark to one side. The wear mark is the front left side
  6. Knocking sound seems to get better once it revs above 1200rpm. And then returns noticeably below that to low idle at 7-800. knock also is more noticeable when engine loads, going up a hill for instance. And then the knock goes away as the engine unloads going down the hill.
  7. Maybe I’m having deja by? Finally got the 2544 tractor running again this weekend after getting a lot of work done to the engine. This is the same engine that used to have a really noticeable knock turned out to be choke butterfly screw in cylinder 4. The screw has been removed and the piston smoothed out again. The head has been magnafluxed; new exhaust valves and reground seats, the head was also flattened. Engine had 150 lbs of compression before all the head work. Haven’t checked it since. Also has 40 lbs of oil pressure. Am I just being paranoid? Have a listen:
  8. We finally got everything with the radiator resolved yesterday. They finally ordered me a new radiator from Northern Radiator, and I paid them what I owed them from the initial work on the old radiator. I got a new radiator for pretty cheap and they didn't have to completely eat the cost of the new one. I'm definitely not taking any work to them, or recommending them to anyone in the future. They somehow believe that their system of using a piece of scratch paper with the customers name and phone number, stuffed into the radiator is an adequate system to keep track of things. Clearl
  9. well the radiator went into the shop to get resealed and cleaned. It’s been there for almost a month now. They finally said it was done last week so I stopped in on Friday to pick it up. But my radiator wasn’t there. They had one with my name on it; but it’s definitely not mine. So now this mess is going to drag on even longer as they try to figure where it went. How long does it usually take for you guys to get a radiator back from the shop? There’s a good chance they won’t find it from what I can see of their operation (radiators are identified by scratch paper notes shoved into
  10. Quite frankly there's a bunch of IH stuff on that sale. Tractors, Combines, balers, drills, TD-15, and the list goes on.
  11. In case anyone is interested this tractor is coming up for auction in Nebraska in September. Here's the auction flyer in case anyone is feeling like buying another tractor. http://www.novakauctionservice.com/new_page_1.htm#sat09122020
  12. Machine shop magnafluxed the head, and its crack free. I didn't really think it had been cracked but the faint amount of antifreeze I found when I pulled the valve cover had me wondering. I was going to have the machine shop do a valve job while it was in there, but he said the exhaust valves are toast. Fortunately he already ordered some new ones so the head should have some new valves and a tight fit by this time next week.
  13. I used a borescope. some buddies and I all listened to the knock with a stethoscope and agreed that cylinder 4 was the loudest location. I ran a borescope into the spark plug holes on all cylinders and #4 showed some shiny pieces of something on the black piston tops. That made me confident that pulling the head should be the next step to finding the issue. A number of folks suggested the carb screw, but I would have never guessed I'd have gotten so lucky as to have it be something so simple. There may end up being a bent valve, but that's easily fixable. Even blind squirrels find a
  14. Here’s the head and valves. I don’t see any notable marks on the head or valves. I did notice that the rocket for the exhaust valve on this cylinder is a little bent. It should straighten fairly easily. So I’ll be pulling the valves to make sure they are still straight. Also planning to have the head magnafluxed to check for cracks after finding that little bit of antifreeze under the valve cover. the screw definitely did some bouncing. You can see multiple impressions of the threads in the top of the piston. im also planning to get the radiator into a shop. There’s evidence o
  15. Gentlemen the answer you have all been waiting for.....drumroll please. The winning guess of what’s causing the brutal knock in the 2544.... was a screw!!! I had been bouncing around but had finally imbedded itself in the piston. I talked the guys I bought it from and he told me he had rebuilt the carb recently. It must have come loose. I’m honestly surprised that an updraft intake has that much suction. But I guess it is just a large vacuum when it’s running.
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